Pioneer chainsaws

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Pioneer 600 a. I reduced the gasket material to raise compression . Now I have this problem . The squish is to low at the arrow .010 should i take a little off that surface ? Im thinkin the advance might do it good with a piston trim to clear things.
Old piston worked over cyl new rings .
View attachment 664822
If that's the only tight spot a little off the piston isn't going to hurt it for sure. That gasket looked great btw.
 
So I've got a front wrap handle bar for my 17XX saw that has a bunch of rust on it. I'd like to put a rubber coating over the rusted area similar to a modern saw. The issue is that the wrap handle is a solid loop (welded at the bottom), so I can't slide anything onto it, like one could typically do with a modern saw.

I was thinking of using plasti-dip, but its not good with gasoline. Does anyone have any suggestions?
 
I tried flex seal on the tops of mobil tooling carts at work to keep things from sliding off . Worked great for a bit till oil and solvent got on it and sat . Then goo. I think the shrink wrap and a cut weld on the full wrap is the answer. Put on extra before shrinking, weld grind and shrink cover a little at a time . Cut to fit .
 
I tried flex seal on the tops of mobil tooling carts at work to keep things from sliding off . Worked great for a bit till oil and solvent got on it and sat . Then goo. I think the shrink wrap and a cut weld on the full wrap is the answer. Put on extra before shrinking, weld grind and shrink cover a little at a time . Cut to fit .
Please be careful... I used heat shrink tubing on many wire bundles during my military career. More than once the heat used while soldering caused an early shrink. In cases like that silicone, self-bonding tape saved my bacon. I don't think that would look proper on the full wrap and any cuts grow very quickly. The second problem with self-bonding tape is when individual wires inside a bundle that are insulated with it, they bond to a completed wire bundle wrap and one another. it becomes VERY difficult to reopen the bundle once complete. I know a single wrap is all that's needed for your bar but ANY nick or cut will become huge.
 
If you add a slightly larger, thin metal sleeve near to where you weld, once the weld and cleanup are complete, you can likely with some difficulty slide the sleeve out of the shrink, split and remove it with a hacksaw or vibrating saw. The shrink tubing could then be properly positioned and shrunk.
Not necessarily easy but it's likely doable.
GL Lou
Glass tube that is later broken and removed?
 
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