2broke2ride
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I think I found a color in a rattle can that is close enough for me. It is Krylon, the color is called "gloss bright idea"
Pioneer chainsaws
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that should look pretty good.
one i did outta spray bomb.
one i did outta spray bomb.
2broke2ride
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Does anyone have a clutch cover to fit this 600? Mine is less than a cover lol. Willing to pay a fair price.
2broke2ride
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Will a cover from a 620 work?
Ok. Looks like it is once again Pioneer chainsaw question time..... So while playing around online, I saw these 'Pioneer Chainsaw Chain Stops' listed. So I look at the P20/P25 IPL, and see it listed there, part # 429637 - Chain Adjuster, Stop Chain Tensioner. I went and looked, and I do not have one installed on my saw. Can someone please explain to me what exactly this is, and what it does. Will my saw be alright without one, or do I need it. If yes to needing it, can I easily make one with something on hand? Looks like a small piece of fuel line, or small piece of nylon that goes over the adjusting screw. Ran the saw a bit tonight to try tuning it better, and it is doing alright. Slight hesitation when going idle to full throttle, but it works fine. The more I played with the low speed screw, the worse I got it. The chain does still rotate ever-so-slightly when idling, ie. stops completely for a few seconds, then rolls forward about an inch slowly, stops, repeat. Thank you.
Forgot to add I filled it with 32:1 this time instead of 16:1 that I used earlier. Still smokes a good bit sporadically, and honestly seems to come out of the front where the bar and chain are and not the muffler. The bar is definately getting oil as I can see it dripping all over the bar, and chain is very damp with oil. Just thinking the oil is getting heated up by the sprocket as it is going round and round, but am not sure. Also this is my first 'old'saw, and love it, especially with its new chain!
Yes.
The tensioner stop is there to limit/stop the pin that engages the bar,from travelling too far forward, its not a terribly important part but would help prevent the stripping of the tensioner screw threads if present. Chain creep is often present in these old saws often caused by slackness in the garter spring allowing the clutch shoes to contact the inside of the clutch drum at idle. The hesitation going from idle to WOT is a symptom of the carb not providing enough fuel quickly when the throttle butterfly opens, the carb must be in pristine condition and the L adjusted slightly rich to get this switch over to work correctly. The carbs on these chainsaws are very touchy about adjustments and being in good working condition, the inner flexible diaphragms must be like new to work correctly, if they are even slightly stiff or stretched the carb will not tune correctly.
Thank you. I will play around a bit more with the adjustments, but will probably end up buying a carburetor rebuild kit and doing that. I will also try and get a peek inside to see how hard it will be on this saw to change all the fuel lines. Meaning, will I be able to change them without major disassembly? Looks like there is a metal 'barb' on the top under the cover for the line from the tank, if my memory serves correct.... I will also look into making some sort of chain stop for it as well. May I also please ask does this go behind the 'adjuster', or up front of the 'adjuster' closer to teh screw head that you adjust? Thinking of a small piece of fuel line.
The retaining piece is typically positioned at the screw head end of the adjuster on the inside of the housing to keep the adjusting screw from vibrating all the way out. There are various approaches to this by different manufacturers with the 'piece of fuel hose' usually being a better and simpler way of achieving the same basic result if the adjustment range of the b/c setup will allow it. You will need to experiment with different lengths and diameters to determine what will fit the situation but will more than likely find a suitable solution fairly easily. It has certainly become my remedy of choice in most situations where the original retaining piece has either disintegrated of simply fallen out from excessive wear.
Here's an example for a Husky 55 that just drops into the groove and is held in place by a cover. Others more commonly will require threading on the retainer after partially inserting or threading the adjusting screw though the front of the case into an adjuster slot. I don't know the particulars of your saw, but assume one of the approaches mentioned would more than suffice in the absence of an OEM retention piece.
Here's an example for a Husky 55 that just drops into the groove and is held in place by a cover. Others more commonly will require threading on the retainer after partially inserting or threading the adjusting screw though the front of the case into an adjuster slot. I don't know the particulars of your saw, but assume one of the approaches mentioned would more than suffice in the absence of an OEM retention piece.
I've started assembly on my p41 and ran into a hickup with the clutch. After assembly the drum was tight and would not turn. I took off the cover on my p40 and noticed a clutch cover that goes on before the nut to lock it down. Is this part necessary to prevent the problem im having or is it something else? I've got a couple more questions but figured we could tackle one at a time.
Thanks. Jason.
Thanks. Jason.
It looks to me like a short length of heat shrink would work like a charm. From experience, it will shrink to about 1/3 the current diameter. The more it shrinks the thicker it becomes. The thicker it is the tougher it will be. You could even shrink multiple segments on one another. If I had this problem that's what I'd try. A heat gun should shrink it without discoloring the paint.
The most common shrink tool in the AF was a BIC-1. Someone would have been in deep trouble had they been caught. Jet fuel (JP-4) is a low-grade kerosene.
Here is a couple pictures to show what im dealing with. This was someone's parts saw that im reviving so it may be missing or even have the wrong parts so any help is greatly appreciated.
p61 western
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That looks just fine. Looks like a farmsaw clutch, but should work fine. Is the bearing in decent shape?
Yes but when I tighten it down it locks up.
Maybe the bearing is wrong?
p61 western
ArboristSite Guru
Does it slide on and off okay? Seems strange to me. Could be a bearing problem, or possibly wrong clutch drum.
Slides on perfect. Maybe ill buy a drum and bearing set just to eliminate any possibility of wrong parts. There is another bearing in a box that came with it. Ill give it a try in the morning. The ipl for the P41 doesn't show the clutch cover that the P40 has so maybe it doesn't need it.
The other question I have is the carburetor adapter looks like someone overnighted the carburetor and cracked it. Here is a couple pictures, do you think its repairable?
The other question I have is the carburetor adapter looks like someone overnighted the carburetor and cracked it. Here is a couple pictures, do you think its repairable?
Finding that clutch assembly might be more difficult than I thought.
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