Pioneer chainsaws

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Do IEL, Pioneer HA HM, RA and 620, 650 have a locator pin in the piston groove?
I'm pretty sure not but I'm not at home to check.
Are the rings all 1/16 in thick?
I measured a 620 ring and an HM and came up with 1/16 in.
I'm fairly confident that none of those have a way of locating the piston rings. As far as ring thickness goes, 1/16" sounds right from what I can remember. Its been over a year since I rebuilt one of those saws.

I buy most of my piston rings on ebay from "the greek". When I can't find an exact match I have bought rings for a 1-2mm larger bore than I needed and file fit them. Just pick the exact dimensions from the drop down menu.
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Piston-Ring...63:m:mWiJptmDXEWefwyLA3scXQA&var=670042508259

You can search the rings by dimension. I've bought lots from him and I've never had any issues.
 
I got it painted and reassembled today! It doesn’t have a piston in it because I am waiting to figure out about rings. I also have a NOS pioneer pro 36” bar ordered off eBay as well for it. I was thinking of switching it up and painting the pioneer and tree on the cover in the burgundy colour of the 620 special. I thought it would look cool.
 

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Wow. You did a very nice job on that. Looks great! As for painting the name and tree,do whatever floats your boat, as it is your saw, and would look good either color.
 
Thanks lil 171. This is what it looked like when I got it and the process along the way! This is my first one and I am hooked! Lol
 

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I got it painted and reassembled today! It doesn’t have a piston in it because I am waiting to figure out about rings. I also have a NOS pioneer pro 36” bar ordered off eBay as well for it. I was thinking of switching it up and painting the pioneer and tree on the cover in the burgundy colour of the 620 special. I thought it would look cool.
chain is on backwards..... but it's just mocked up right ;)

Looks really good though, the color looks great. spray can or ?

A 36" is going to be a bit much for that saw, especially in any type of hardwood. Even more so if its .404 pitch chain.
 
So how does a P62 vent the oil tank? There's a very small hole in the cap on mine, but no duckbill (or any vent for that matter) shown in the IPL for the oil cap. Oil leaks from this hole when the saw is held on its side which becomes problematic for any horizontal cutting, especially milling. What do you milling guys do to eliminate the leakage from the oil cap..., short of using an external oiling system?
 
I cannot speak absolutely for oil but... The gas cap on my FarmSaw has multiple layers. More than once I've heard a rattle in the fuel tank, drained it, and found loose pieces. There are a butterfly vent and a metal keeper that from time to time fall out (leaving fuel in tank causes this and swelling). When they do the cap leaks fuel. I suspect something very similar for the oil cap.
HTH
Lou

Edited
I just looked, and my oil cap is configured differently. I hate it when I'm Wrrrrrrrrr.
Anyone else? I'm curious. There is something below the vent hole in the tank side of the oil cap (it looks like a very small Phillips screw head, to these old eyes).
 
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I've rebuilt the fuel cap twice and am on my third time today. May try a dab of Seal-All on the final brass piece that keeps everything else in the cap. Got rid of the retainer the first time since all it did was pull the bottom out of the cap whenever there was any stress put on it. Umbrella valve still works well. Just needs to be kept in place more securely. The oil cap is butt simple by comparison with only an 'O' ring and a retainer and chain held in place with screw #428335. No vent.
 
Neither cap of my FarmSaw ever had a retainer. These eyes may be better than I thought, there is a Phillips head screw, directly under the hole in the oil cap.
I no longer store my saw with fuel onboard and don't think my cap has come apart since I stopped. I haven't had a swelling problem since either.
It's rare that I run her, but when I do it's 100LL Av Gas mixed at 50:1. Ethanol is not what causes the swelling. The swelling happened long before they started adding it to pump gas.
I still have my original fuel hoses and I bought it brand new in late 1979 or early 80.

I just looked at the IPL that I think came with my saw and it shows retainers on both caps. Maybe the shop where I bought the saw removed them. I swear on a stack of UCMJs I did not.
 
I've rebuilt the fuel cap twice and am on my third time today. May try a dab of Seal-All on the final brass piece that keeps everything else in the cap. Got rid of the retainer the first time since all it did was pull the bottom out of the cap whenever there was any stress put on it. Umbrella valve still works well. Just needs to be kept in place more securely. The oil cap is butt simple by comparison with only an 'O' ring and a retainer and chain held in place with screw #428335. No vent.
Strange yours is doing that. I haven't had a problem with it on any of my p series saws. I just did some milling with the p51, and no oil leaks at all. Hopefully it's not getting pressurized from the crankcase. Has it ever been split and get a new case gasket?
 
Never been split and certainly doesn't seem like it needs to be. Evidently there is a vent of sorts in the oil cap. No sure if this is supposed to be all there is to it , but here's a pic. Just a little brass or bronze mesh insert that certainly isn't keeping oil from leaking out the hole. Anything else supposed to be in there?

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And about the fuel cap vent...

I realized when I put it back together this time around that the umbrella valve is venting in the wrong direction..., as in outward from inside the tank. I'm not seeing how it could be inverted in the cap assembly or assembled differently itself to vent correctly. What am I missing here?
 
That's exactly what my oil cap looks like, including the Phillips head screw over the breather hole.
Are you running something other than 30 weight non-detergent oil with a tackifier added? I think all bar oils use that basic recipe.
I can see a lighter weight petroleum or vegetable oil perhaps leaking.
I can with some difficulty cover the hole (pinky) above the screw. I cannot draw air with it covered. Covering the other hole had zero impact on drawing air, other than a change in the pitch of the sound generated.
 
Tractor Supply? That's what I'm running in my Husqvarnas (for now). I haven't noticed any leakage there, and they don't oil when at idle.

The Pioneer I'm fairly certain oils any time it's running. As long as oil is being drawn out there should be a slight vacuum. I think there is a problem with your saw.

Walmart has mixed in with the automotive oils a bar oil (Super Tech) only slightly more expensive. If I add the gasoline to and from my nearest Tractor Supply, Walmart is cheaper. Once I exhaust the CountryLine (TSC) I'll be using Walmart's.
Something else I wish I'd tried sooner, I won't be removing the foil inner cover. I'll just punch one 3/16 inch± hole against one edge. It allows a much more controlled addition of oil with almost zero spillage or mess.
 
So how does a P62 vent the oil tank? There's a very small hole in the cap on mine, but no duckbill (or any vent for that matter) shown in the IPL for the oil cap. Oil leaks from this hole when the saw is held on its side which becomes problematic for any horizontal cutting, especially milling. What do you milling guys do to eliminate the leakage from the oil cap..., short of using an external oiling system?

Not sure if it will be any help but I looked at the caps on my P series and the brass fitting that holds the ball chain is flat to the vent hole. My P41 that I just fixed up was weeping quite a bit of bar oil out the cap and the brass fitting is bent up and not tight to the vent hole. The ones that are flat to the hole don't leak.

If you need pics, let me know
 
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