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Pioneer chainsaws

fossil

fossil

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I'm restoring a P40 for a family member and it has no spark. I've replaced the plug, filed the points and even removed the wire trimmed a little to give it fresh wire at the contact but while I had it apart I noticed the coil is separating from the plastic. I found this old thread which states the Homelite SXL coil will work. My question is will the solid state coil work eliminating the points all togethear and will the existing flywheel work? In the meantime I have the old one baking.
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/pioneer-farmsaw-ignition-coil-swap.185371/

View attachment 752291
The Farmsaw uses a module type coil. Never tried one on a points saw. You might be better off finding a standard coil for a points ignition. I subbed a Chinese coil for the Farmsaw and Homelite XL-76 saw that was for a Husqvarna 50 51 55 61 254 257 261 262 266 268 272.
I had to make brackets to make it fit.
 

Lou

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After baking it, replacing the wire and boot I have spark but it's not very bright. Would a condenser cause this type of behavior?
I'm not an authority but my best guess is it might. I think of a condenser like a capacitor. A capacitor acts like a short term storage battery in electronic circuits. If your condenser has a short, it could reduce the amount of electricity it can store, and that could impact the amount of electricity available to fire the plug.
Lou
I think condensers are very inexpensive. I'd probably try a different one.
If memory serves A condenser is two long strips of aluminum foil separated (isolated from one another) by a strip of paper or mylar (some insulating medium). One strip is connected to ground, the other connects to the points. When the points close the condenser discharges to the plug wire.
 
Jasonrkba

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$12 and points set is $15. Figure I'll just replace them as well while the flywheel is off.

What I found to be the biggest problem was the little coil inside of the boot. I used the multimeter to check continuity. That little coil was really crusty and not allowing anything through. The wire had seen better days also. I had an old 2150 laying in the parts pile. They have pretty long coil wires so I stole that one. After cooking the module I cleaned it up and sealed it with seal all.
 
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PogoInTheWoods

PogoInTheWoods

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So was running the P62 in some fairly sizeable oak when it quit oiling. Nothing from either the auto or manual so figured a pickup line issue which is what it turned out to be. Sure wish I'd have known the clutch just slid onto the splined section of the crank instead of threading. Knew the nut itself was right hand thread and figured the clucth was too. What a nightmare that was..., trying everything I knew to get that sucker loose via the totally pointless hex nut on the spider. When it finally drew blood I said screw it. Flipped the saw over to put the starter back on and the whole clutch assembly just fell right off. Standin' there like a dumbass it took me a second to figure out what the deal was. Easy when ya know how, eh? Removing the oil pump itself and replacing the totally shot pickup line was considerably easier...an hour and a half after getting the actual clutch retaining nut off. Sheesh.

Anyway, is the check valve for the manual oiler somehow serviceable? I'm only getting intermittent activity from the manual pump. I hear it sucking and pumping but only a little squirt here and there..., certainly not enough to oil anything. Tank is nearly full and I imagine it should have been primed after about 20 or so pumps. Didn't consider the check valve when I had the pump off and am just wondering if it's worth pulling it again to see what's up with it. Don't see one in the IPL and the basic shop manual seems to indicate that it's internal behind the manual hose fitting maybe? Not real clear about it.
 
Jasonrkba

Jasonrkba

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While I wait on my condenser and points I've been thinking, trying to get ahead I guess. If these don't fix my problem of no spark and I need a coil. Has anyone converted the p40 from points to solid state? Would the SXL work with my existing flywheel. The reason I ask is the original coil has proven difficult to find.

Thanks. Jason.
 
fossil

fossil

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So was running the P62 in some fairly sizeable oak when it quit oiling. Nothing from either the auto or manual so figured a pickup line issue which is what it turned out to be. Sure wish I'd have known the clutch just slid onto the splined section of the crank instead of threading. Knew the nut itself was right hand thread and figured the clucth was too. What a nightmare that was..., trying everything I knew to get that sucker loose via the totally pointless hex nut on the spider. When it finally drew blood I said screw it. Flipped the saw over to put the starter back on and the whole clutch assembly just fell right off. Standin' there like a dumbass it took me a second to figure out what the deal was. Easy when ya know how, eh? Removing the oil pump itself and replacing the totally shot pickup line was considerably easier...an hour and a half after getting the actual clutch retaining nut off. Sheesh.

Anyway, is the check valve for the manual oiler somehow serviceable? I'm only getting intermittent activity from the manual pump. I hear it sucking and pumping but only a little squirt here and there..., certainly not enough to oil anything. Tank is nearly full and I imagine it should have been primed after about 20 or so pumps. Didn't consider the check valve when I had the pump off and am just wondering if it's worth pulling it again to see what's up with it. Don't see one in the IPL and the basic shop manual seems to indicate that it's internal behind the manual hose fitting maybe? Not real clear about it.
It looks to me (from the manual) that it is a ball and spring in the pump body where the manual oiler hose hooks into the auto pump. You might try sucking on the hose to see if it closes up. I've had good luck shooting some solvent or carb cleaner (on similar Homelite check valves) in the barb to free it up if it's stuck.

There was also a post from arrowhead in 2013 abut an epoxy plug in a hole which falls out sometime and needs to be plugged up.

Sadly, the pics are gone as is Arrowhead. You might try contacting @Beavers to see if he can help if you suspect that may be the issue Beavers is a prolific Pioneer collector and has lots of the 99 cc versions.

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/pioneer-chainsaws.70698/page-422#post-4448643
 

Lou

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Or would one of those ignition chips make more since then replacing the condenser and points?
I wish I could give you an informed answer but I cannot.
I'm posting to thank you. I haven't looked at the plug connection on my FarmSaw since I bought it. Your post has added something I need to look at (it's bright and shiny), and a new possibility should it ever give me a problem.
Again Thank You.
Lou
 
Jasonrkba

Jasonrkba

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I'm half way hoping I can figure a common coil to put on these. Plug and play. Maybe even an inexpensive aftermarket. These saws are getting hard to find parts for without spending a lot of money. The little red barn piston is working well in my 41 but if I ever have ignition problems it would probably get shelved.:confused:
 
PogoInTheWoods

PogoInTheWoods

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It looks to me (from the manual) that it is a ball and spring in the pump body where the manual oiler hose hooks into the auto pump. You might try sucking on the hose to see if it closes up. I've had good luck shooting some solvent or carb cleaner (on similar Homelite check valves) in the barb to free it up if it's stuck.
Thanks, Tim. Think it fixed itself by just replacing the pickup line and getting the auto-oiler working again. Your suggestion certainly sounds like a viable approach for freeing up the check ball if that ever becomes necessary. Didn't seem like a 'serviceable part' from the illustration and description in the manual short of pulling and replacing the barb.

Still have a couple of leaky caps but otherwise have the bugs worked out and it's running great now. One bad ass saw.

0811191850_resized.jpg
 
jsmith40004

jsmith40004

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Wife picked up what was sold as a 655 poulan pro. When I looked at it last night the outside decals were 655 on handle and poulan pro on clutch cover. ID tag underneath says it's a p65cbw by emab. Were some of first 655s labeled like this?
The top half of rear handle is going to have to be replaced and I'm trying to make sure if it's suppose to have p65 decals or Poulan Pro. I'm not sure at this point which ones are correct

Thanks
James
 
fossil

fossil

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Wife picked up what was sold as a 655 poulan pro. When I looked at it last night the outside decals were 655 on handle and poulan pro on clutch cover. ID tag underneath says it's a p65cbw by emab. Were some of first 655s labeled like this?
The top half of rear handle is going to have to be replaced and I'm trying to make sure if it's suppose to have p65 decals or Poulan Pro. I'm not sure at this point which ones are correct

Thanks
James
Pretty much the same saw except P65's are rare in North America and were sold under the Pioneer - Partner name.

Nice find. I understand that some if not all have the boost port as well. It sounds like some parts were swapped at some point. Either way you have a great saw.
 
jsmith40004

jsmith40004

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She did real good. Saw should be decaled as p65 to match ID tag then? The top handle is broken so when I put replacement on I'm going to redecal the saw as the paint is excellent, and just wanted to make sure I buy the correct ones. I'll post pictures tonight after I get home from work.

James
 
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