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Pioneer chainsaws

Joab

I'll think of something.
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The orange umbrella valve in the fuel cap of my P42 recently degraded to the point of no longer working and subsequently breaking off.

In searching for a replacement I discovered that the Poulan equivalent umbrella valve is no longer available.

After a little more digging, I discovered that Stihl's orange umbrella valve that was used in the tank vent of many older saws ( 036, 064, 066, others ) is the same size (or very close) and is still readily available through a Stihl dealer. Part number 1110-353-1600.

I've replaced my defective valve with the Stihl part and it works perfectly (meaning it works as well as the original had -- it's still not as good as the vent assembly on recent pro saws).

I didn't see any posts about this, so I thought I would share in case it helps anyone out.

Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) en utilisant Tapatalk
 
Semmy

Semmy

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Have a 3071 sitting in my garage that I got running again, but without any kind of safety gear on it (pivot grip or chain brake) am hesitant to use her across the line (where it's needed). So I ask, is there a market for it? Will to sell to a home that will give it some love and will put the money towards a replacement. Likely a used Stihl MS2xx series

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/posts/6844296/
 

Lou

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Just something so I get e-mail notifications when someone posts to this thread.
Why does it stop?
Is it possible for that event to be stopped/eliminated?
I know how to stop e-mail notifications if I desire, why does the Arboristsite perform this task on my behalf?
How often must I add a junk post to keep getting email notifications?
Lou
 
hisport

hisport

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P51 Blower Housing...

I'm looking for a P51 blower (AKA starter) housing. I believe the pn is 474639 (or 474586 for the complete assembly).
Are there other Pioneer model covers which will fit? Other part numbers which cross to a P51 cover??
(I see others on ebay which look like mine in the photos, but have diff part numbers (eg, 474859)
(My original cover is missing most of the steel intake guard, as well as a few intake struts)
 
mogulmasher

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So I recently got a pair of 1074 pioneers and went through them tonight. They both seem to run fantastic and needed very little to get running. One seems to run ever so slightly better, so I put the one good 1074 air cleaner cover and air filter on that one. That one also has a slightly better bar and chain. The other one has a P20 cover but the plastic nubs are broken underneath and it's missing a filter.

Can't wait to try them in some wood they sound real good and rev well. 20200123_215656.jpg 20200123_215706.jpg 20200123_215722.jpg 20200123_215727.jpg 20200123_221348.jpg
 
mogulmasher

mogulmasher

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Also anyone ever take the baffle plate out of the muffler on these? I took it out of the one I'm gonna run and ran it back to back with the other saw and it seems to have added a touch of snap to throttle. 20200123_223159.jpg
 

ML12

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Also anyone ever take the baffle plate out of the muffler on these? I took it out of the one I'm gonna run and ran it back to back with the other saw and it seems to have added a touch of snap to throttle. View attachment 791403
Yeah, not one of those exactly but some of my older pioneers have had the baffle plate drilled out lots. Seems better, but its probably placebo effect.
 
Screwbolts

Screwbolts

Never to many Engines!!
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Yeah, not one of those exactly but some of my older pioneers have had the baffle plate drilled out lots. Seems better, but its probably placebo effect.

I also usually leave the plate in if it is used as a spacer between the inner and outer covers. The side directly over the exhaust port I usually leave solid. the side with the original passageway gets to know one of my uni bits, several nice holes that I debur. I feel the solid side is a heat protector for the outer cover. I burned threw the outer cover many years ago on a Skil 1661 that I cleaned the ports out a little and removed an internal balle in the muffler.

Ken
 
Beavers

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So I recently got a pair of 1074 pioneers and went through them tonight. They both seem to run fantastic and needed very little to get running. One seems to run ever so slightly better, so I put the one good 1074 air cleaner cover and air filter on that one. That one also has a slightly better bar and chain. The other one has a P20 cover but the plastic nubs are broken underneath and it's missing a filter.

Can't wait to try them in some wood they sound real good and rev well. View attachment 791397 View attachment 791398 View attachment 791399 View attachment 791400 View attachment 791401

Trivia: Did you know Pioneer got creative and used the OMC and Johnson snowmobile track cleats , just bent them and used as the chainsaw handle .
 
mogulmasher

mogulmasher

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Trivia: Did you know Pioneer got creative and used the OMC and Johnson snowmobile track cleats , just bent them and used as the chainsaw handle .
That's cool I'm a big vintage sled guy, and I never even noticed that. I've got a '74 John Deere 440 and a '79 Polaris Centurion I'm building.
 
Semmy

Semmy

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Have a 3071 sitting in my garage that I got running again, but without any kind of safety gear on it (pivot grip or chain brake) am hesitant to use her across the line (where it's needed). So I ask, is there a market for it? Will to sell to a home that will give it some love and will put the money towards a replacement. Likely a used Stihl MS2xx series

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/posts/6844296/
Was running the saw today and she was purring at idle (finally). Then sudden stop. Opened up the recoil side and found the nut had come loose on the crank. And this behind it. Time to put the saw out to pasture? Or try to get a new key for it and see if she will seat properly again?
 

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PogoInTheWoods

PogoInTheWoods

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You can clean that up and find a new key. Otherwise, just clean the crank and flywheel real well with alcohol or brake cleaner, (whatever won't leave a residue), then put it back together with the keyways lined up with or without a key, torque it well and run it. The key is for timing alignment. The taper on the shaft (and the nut properly tightened) is what keeps the flywheel on.

edit: Upon closer inspection and seeing the damage at the seal, I'll hafta retract the above opinion and apologize for being so hasty with my initial observation.
 
Semmy

Semmy

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You can clean that up and find a new key. Otherwise, just clean the crank and flywheel real well with alcohol or brake cleaner, (whatever won't leave a residue), then put it back together with the keyways lined up with or without a key, torque it well and run it. The key is for timing alignment. The taper on the shaft (and the nut properly tightened) is what keeps the flywheel on.

edit: Upon closer inspection and seeing the damage at the seal, I'll hafta retract the above opinion and apologize for being so hasty with my initial observation.
Am going to give it a try and see if it can be saved. Worst case scenario it will be a good parts saw for someone. Thanks for the response
 
PogoInTheWoods

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My concern would be for what looks like the already trashed oil pump seal and the extended slot that looks like it was a result of the loose key/flywheel. Not having an IPL, I don't really know how deep the key is supposed to sit but wouldn't think it would go under what appears to be a seal. I would suspect another seal at the case/bearing as well that could maybe get you by, but maybe not?

Someone with more knowledge than me should chime in shortly to clarify your options.
 
Screwbolts

Screwbolts

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You can clean that up and find a new key. Otherwise, just clean the crank and flywheel real well with alcohol or brake cleaner, (whatever won't leave a residue), then put it back together with the keyways lined up with or without a key, torque it well and run it. The key is for timing alignment. The taper on the shaft (and the nut properly tightened) is what keeps the flywheel on.

edit: Upon closer inspection and seeing the damage at the seal, I'll hafta retract the above opinion and apologize for being so hasty with my initial observation.
Pogo,

I believe your seeing an optical allusion of the slot hitting/going to the outer lip of the crank case seal. I do not believe it is hurt at all and the lip you are seeing is the dust lip of the crank case seal. the true sealing part is on the inside of the seal and can not be seen in the photo.

The oil pump is on the other end of the crankshaft, not on the flywheel side of the engine.

I say de grease the taper and flywheel and put it back together.

Ken
 
PogoInTheWoods

PogoInTheWoods

Don't forget about the alligators...
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Very good point about the oil pump! I humbly stand corrected. I was actually looking at a completely different picture when thinking that and obviously had my topics confused and crankshaft ends backassward. I also neglected to post a closeup of what I was referring to and seem to be all the way out in left field on this one. LOL

Anyway, here's the pic I meant to include. And if there is indeed a separate oil seal at the case/bearing, I'd then stand by my original observation that a good cleaning and a tighter nut may also indeed revive the saw.

seal.jpg
 
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