top one fits farmsaw, etc.
might even be pioneer chain on it, hafta check on that. 2 of the 3 were.
lmk if yer interested.
Pioneer chainsaws
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top one fits farmsaw, etc.
might even be pioneer chain on it, hafta check on that. 2 of the 3 were.
lmk if yer interested.
Nice artwork on those bars! Look new. How long is that top bar? I was thinking about getting a 24” or 28” for the P41. Would the 28” be pushing the saws limit? They seem pretty powerful for a 66cc saw!
20" good for farmsaw.
41 will like more. id stay under 28. got 24 on my 42.
big ones are 32. nfs. one is on my 655.
41 will like more. id stay under 28. got 24 on my 42.
big ones are 32. nfs. one is on my 655.
Pete, What are the sizes on those bars, I have a saw or 2 they would look good on.
20" & 2x32".
the 20" could sail.
sold one 32, keeping the other.
the 32s were big slot. dont think they work on 6 or 7xx series.
20 is smaller [5/16] slot.
hillwilliam
ArboristSite Operative
You're probably all set with what Fossil and Rocketnorton told you. Husky mount bars work fine with slight modification : Enlarge the slot a tad for the studs and extend the oil hole/ slot a bit with a little carbide burr.
My 655BP normally wears a 30" Cannon, Husky mount. My P52 currently has a 28" that I'm pretty sure is an old Homelite mount. My P45 has an oddball 26" Windsor that's a Husky mount. It balances nicely enough with that bar and has plenty of snort to pull it. (Like my other saws, it's seriously hopped up, though.) I have a 24" Oregon for it that's also a Husky mount. The only other one I ever use on a Pioneer is a 36", and I'm pretty sure it's an actual Pioneer mount.
I also have a couple dozen worn-out bars of varying brands, including General and Cannon, and they're mostly Jonsereds or Pioneer mounts. As I recall, the old big Jonny bars were almost a direct fit on a Pioneer.
I can provide numbers, etc. stamped on my bars, if it will do you any good.
Thanks! That’s really great information.
Windsor UXL or Oregon 096/196 for the larger P-series (Homelite mounts). Unfortunately, Oregon no longer makes any of the longer 196 mounts. As mentioned, 009 Husqvarna with mods will get you into lengths 24" and up if you are looking for something new.
That’s a pretty handy chart. I’m sure it would only have been a matter of time before I asked how many drive links I would need. Great information,
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Interesting that the larger 007 mount is called for on the 1072/73 in this catalogue. I was under the impression the 10xx, P2x and 30xx all run the smaller 095 mounts/studs. I've never run into one that used a larger mount and 3/8" shims. I don't have a 1072 or 73, but did they actually have 3/8" studs whereas the 1074, P28's etc the 5/16"?
Cory l do have 1073 but it has the small 5/16" mount studs, l agree l have never come across the 3/8" studs in the these models, The S shim l have though and if used with the D007 mount to reduce size to 5/16. From my limited knowledge.
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The S-spacer was very common on all the 5/16" Echo, Homelite and Poulan studs that I have run into from the mid 70's to 80's. I've never seen one on any of the 1074/28's I've got. The 3/8" UXL Homelite mount (Oregon 196) was used on most 5/16" that I have seen up here. That bar mount/stud spacers was religiously used from the factory (with the proper bar plates). I wonder when/why Oregon went to a unique 007 mount on the P-series when earlier on they all called for the UXL or 096/196. 007's are elusive at best.
l beleive oregon bars were stop being used at 1771 model 1970-71 and switched to Windsor Bars in 1965 starting with the 4 digit saws
The Pioneer partner bar in pic appears to be the time period the D007 mount was used about 1984
The Pioneer partner bar in pic appears to be the time period the D007 mount was used about 1984
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Picked up a super pioneer a couple weeks ago, cleaned it up, new fuel lines, a few gaskets and she’s a runner.
Still working on another Super Pioneer DA 51 and I’m looking for a starter nut for it.
transmission is from a DC, added some paint it’s a close match to the faded red.
will be leaving the engine covers as is.
White_Fang
ArboristSite Lurker
Pioneer P26 chainsaw with electronic switch
Hello to everyone. My great respect to all of you people, for making this big well of knowledge -filled with information, data and experiences, and great people all in one place.
When I stumbled upon this website, I was trying to fix one of the saws we own (it was minor repair, changed gaskets for muffler and carburetor -they were always getting loose after hard work before that), and then I started to read about more demanding repairs, I found it really amusing.
So, here I am, trying to bring back to active duty an old Pioneer P26 chainsaw with electronic switch. The chainsaw was the my neighbour's first chainsaw, he gave it to me for parts for another brand chainsaws which was compatible, because it stopped working long time ago (it has no bar and chain).
I decided to give it a try and fix it, so when I started, first I looked here on ArboristSite (for its background because it's rare to see it around here), and find out this is a solid metal saw (except for the air filter cover -plastic), and as I understood it's like a small pro saw.
I cleaned firstly the exterior, and then opened it up, and have cleaned the fins on starting fan/magnet and the coil, contacts and switch on it, which was very dusty and greasy. Then I cleaned the muffler, and when I was there cleaned the top of the piston which had some of the carbon layer on it. I tried pulling rope to check the spark ignition, and it gave nice sparks.
Also after cleaning I checked and drained fuel/oil thanks and added new fuel mix/oil, pulled the rope but the saw didn't react, compression is solid (I noticed that the seal rings on the caps are little softer- possible problem). Before that I have cleaned carburetor without disassembling it to it's core. Then I checked filters and saw that rubber part of fuel filter is starting to melt. Then I sprayed little fuel mix into the carburetor, and pulled rope few times, I did it again because first time I forgot to turn switch ON, after few pulls it starts like a charm, and then turns off. The oil pump is also working well. So after I change fuel/oil lines and filters and if it doesn't start on pulling rope, then I will know for sure that the problem is in carburetor (I really hope it's not).
PROBLEM STARTS HERE:
I have a problem finding original fuel/oil lines and fuel/oil filter for Pioneer P26 in my surroundings. The ones I find on internet are already sold, or would not ship to my country, or the fees for the shipment are much more expensive (several times) than the lines and filter itself, not to mention probable expenses of the customs.
MY QUESTIONS: Is it possible (probably is) to use the fuel/oil lines and the filter of the same dimension from some other chainsaw brand than Pioneer? Could I have a problem by using the non original part on the chainsaw? Also should I try to make ring seals for fuel/oil caps or keep using old ones, because I think they are softer than they should be and sometimes there are little leaks from the fuel/oil tanks?
Hello to everyone. My great respect to all of you people, for making this big well of knowledge -filled with information, data and experiences, and great people all in one place.
When I stumbled upon this website, I was trying to fix one of the saws we own (it was minor repair, changed gaskets for muffler and carburetor -they were always getting loose after hard work before that), and then I started to read about more demanding repairs, I found it really amusing.
So, here I am, trying to bring back to active duty an old Pioneer P26 chainsaw with electronic switch. The chainsaw was the my neighbour's first chainsaw, he gave it to me for parts for another brand chainsaws which was compatible, because it stopped working long time ago (it has no bar and chain).
I decided to give it a try and fix it, so when I started, first I looked here on ArboristSite (for its background because it's rare to see it around here), and find out this is a solid metal saw (except for the air filter cover -plastic), and as I understood it's like a small pro saw.
I cleaned firstly the exterior, and then opened it up, and have cleaned the fins on starting fan/magnet and the coil, contacts and switch on it, which was very dusty and greasy. Then I cleaned the muffler, and when I was there cleaned the top of the piston which had some of the carbon layer on it. I tried pulling rope to check the spark ignition, and it gave nice sparks.
Also after cleaning I checked and drained fuel/oil thanks and added new fuel mix/oil, pulled the rope but the saw didn't react, compression is solid (I noticed that the seal rings on the caps are little softer- possible problem). Before that I have cleaned carburetor without disassembling it to it's core. Then I checked filters and saw that rubber part of fuel filter is starting to melt. Then I sprayed little fuel mix into the carburetor, and pulled rope few times, I did it again because first time I forgot to turn switch ON, after few pulls it starts like a charm, and then turns off. The oil pump is also working well. So after I change fuel/oil lines and filters and if it doesn't start on pulling rope, then I will know for sure that the problem is in carburetor (I really hope it's not).
PROBLEM STARTS HERE:
I have a problem finding original fuel/oil lines and fuel/oil filter for Pioneer P26 in my surroundings. The ones I find on internet are already sold, or would not ship to my country, or the fees for the shipment are much more expensive (several times) than the lines and filter itself, not to mention probable expenses of the customs.
MY QUESTIONS: Is it possible (probably is) to use the fuel/oil lines and the filter of the same dimension from some other chainsaw brand than Pioneer? Could I have a problem by using the non original part on the chainsaw? Also should I try to make ring seals for fuel/oil caps or keep using old ones, because I think they are softer than they should be and sometimes there are little leaks from the fuel/oil tanks?
I'm certainly not one of the most knowledgable folks here... I will offer one caution. The fuel caps probably will not fare well if you run ethanol gas. My FarmSaw became almost impossible to remove shortly after they began adding ethanol to pump gas. I had the advantage of jewelers files that helped but the only long term solution I found was 100LL AvGas ($4-6 a gallon; I mix mine at 50:1). You can today purchase ethanol-free fuel but $20 a gallon or more is way above my budget.
Welcome to the site and good luck with restoring your P26.
One caution about AvGas. If your muffler is catalytic AvGas will be a problem.
Welcome to the site and good luck with restoring your P26.
One caution about AvGas. If your muffler is catalytic AvGas will be a problem.
White_Fang
ArboristSite Lurker
Thank you, and thanks for advice, but I think that my neighbour fueled the chainsaw with mix of clean gas and 2t oil in proportion 32:1 or 40:1, because, as I my father is telling me, that was the recommended fuel mix for 2-t motors, at the time (much earlier proportion used was even 16:1 and 23:1). Now is recommended 40:1 fuel/oil mix for older date (untill 90') and 50:1 for newer date produced 2-t motor driven machines. I think seal rings on fuel/oil caps got softer because longtime influence of fuel mix in the tank.
I just checked again and it seems that the paint in the fuel tank started to form bubbles on surface, it seems that there is possibility that it was fueled with fuel mix containing ethanol, or even worse he could have mixed up can with paint thinner with fuel mix can, because cans were look alike. If it was the second case, I think that could be another problem on its way.
I just checked again and it seems that the paint in the fuel tank started to form bubbles on surface, it seems that there is possibility that it was fueled with fuel mix containing ethanol, or even worse he could have mixed up can with paint thinner with fuel mix can, because cans were look alike. If it was the second case, I think that could be another problem on its way.
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