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The Gasket & Metering Diaphram cannot be upside down , it will cause your flooding and its important also that you set the inlet control lever correctly or the engine will flood easilt not to mention a worn out metering diaphram.
Here is some good info that addresses those point l mentioned , hope it helps you resolve the issue your having.
Some of us fellas also do a Needle pop-off test on the carb ,
To help you out with the Oem parts here is a new Metering Dia and gasket. PM me your address and l will put in mail to forward to you.
Super generous of you! Let me make sure I didn’t put the wrong one from the kit or in the wrong position first!
 
I have the OEM originals and have used kits from, Stens without any mis fit problems. The carbs sent to me to correct were kitted with AM parts from China but I did not see the kits before install by others. Many of the AM and even some of the original kits had a selection of different shaped gaskets and diaphragms, the correct one needs to be selected. Can you post a pic of the carb apart with the gaskets&diaphragms still in place.
Here’s the carb. When I initially took it apart it was super dirty with debris everywhere in it. Everything still looks clean and free of junk, even the metering needle valve passage. I did replace all gaskets, diaphragms, the needle valve including lever and spring. Also replaced the screen and welch plugs.

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Did you hook the inlet lever on the Metering Dia when you installed the Carb kit.
Have you checked to see if the Saw has spark at plug and Compression?
Yeah. Double checked that the diaphragm hook was in place. Plug does have spark. It seems to have pretty good compression (it’s a workout to pull the recoil), but I’ll try to get an actual PSI reading tomorrow.

The main issue I have after the rebuild is that it floods really fast when trying to start it even without choke.
 
I believe it’s an HS 213A (serial #S213A027).

I'd be pulling the small welch plug on the metering side and checking the very fine screen in there, That's your main nozzle check valve and if it damaged.
Be careful pulling the welch plug or you may damage the screen that's in there. You can check and if it looks OK spray it with carb cleaner to clean it.
 
I'd be pulling the small welch plug on the metering side and checking the very fine screen in there, That's your main nozzle check valve and if it damaged.
Be careful pulling the welch plug or you may damage the screen that's in there. You can check and if it looks OK spray it with carb cleaner to clean it.
Will do!
 
I removed the small welch plug and the screen does look damaged (I’m not sure if I did it or it was there before). However, I can’t remove the retaining ring. Is there a special tool for it?
 
I removed the small welch plug and the screen does look damaged (I’m not sure if I did it or it was there before). However, I can’t remove the retaining ring. Is there a special tool for it?
I use a small flat blade jeweller’s screwdriver filed down to a point/hook. You should be able to grab under one end of the clip and free it while prying up. Other folks have mentioned using a straight pin to the same effect.
 
I better check that out.

Here are some pictures of the two pistons. The scored up one is definitely a P40/Orange Farmsaw piston but not sure about the aftermarket.

The rings are definitely different and the area where the wrist pin slides through is different.

I found a NOS already and have installed it in the Farmsaw but I’m trying to figure out if this is a P40 Piston that I may be able to use someday or if it is the wrong piston all together.25A362B8-FBE3-45EC-B069-944F998BD1B2.jpegD61B96F2-B9F0-4089-9371-6C267EDA4988.jpeg4815777A-1CFD-4EDC-B0B0-25A71E4EEF7D.jpeg
 
Yeah. Double checked that the diaphragm hook was in place. Plug does have spark. It seems to have pretty good compression (it’s a workout to pull the recoil), but I’ll try to get an actual PSI reading tomorrow.

The main issue I have after the rebuild is that it floods really fast when trying to start it even without choke.


Pull the muffler and look in the exhaust ports for any damage first. l would try to isolate the fuel issue first by emptying the gas tank of fuel or clipping off the fuel line so no gas is being sucked up thru the lines. Squrit a little fuel into carb and see if it pops. lf the saw does not fire your no start issue could be other than the carb.
Just wondering if your ign symstem is all original / l have found sheared flywheel will effect the timing and also could be your cause of excessive flooding.
 
Wish it addressed the governor and that mystery passage to the low jet circuit on the fixed high jet and governed carbs.

If it's any help, the fuel supplied when the governor vibrates open (at least on the HS carb I checked) comes from a passage beside the metering needle. I wondered what that passage was so I stuck a fine wire down it and it comes out in the governor well.
 
Pull the muffler and look in the exhaust ports for any damage first. l would try to isolate the fuel issue first by emptying the gas tank of fuel or clipping off the fuel line so no gas is being sucked up thru the lines. Squrit a little fuel into carb and see if it pops. lf the saw does not fire your no start issue could be other than the carb.
Just wondering if your ign symstem is all original / l have found sheared flywheel will effect the timing and also could be your cause of excessive flooding.
Okay. Will do that also. I wouldn’t be surprised if the ignition components are all original. I’ll look over those too.
 

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