How do they make just the correct size batch for a rattle can and how do they fill and pressurize it? Always wondered about that.
Pioneer chainsaws
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In our auto shop here they have a mixing machine that is capable of auto mixing any number of fl ounces and the paint is injected into the rattle can also by that same machine. There is already a hardening agent present inside the can and once the paint itself is pressurized inside, there is a small button that can be pushed in and the hardener is released, shake the can up like any other and its ready to spray.They recommend not to release the hardener until ready to apply the paint, it will stay usable if kept refrigerated for a couple of days but eventually it coagulates and becomes useless.
In the last little while have picked up a few new to me saws. A p41, p51 and a 620s. Need to lay off for awhile but one of the saw collectors is thinking of offering me a p60 in summer. His words were [I think I,ll cut back my collection as I have too many doubles]
Did any of the P50’s come with an HS 147 carburetor?
P50's would have been equipped with the SDC Walbro Carb but you could install the smaller tilly HS to the reed block.
Will the HS147 supply enough fuel for the 82cc?
l have never installed one that way. Though the performance would probably be dimenished .
Looks like my enthusiasm for a newly acquired P50 is diminishing! The saw isn’t firing now either. Not sure what happened. It was kicking spark before I pulled the flywheel and coil fo cleaning . When I put everything back on and spun the flywheel it sparked a couple times real weak and then just puttered out and died. Tried a couple different switches but still no luck. Tried the old bake the coil trick with this “big blue” prestolite coil but didn’t fix it...
Gotta find a parts saw or possibly this may become a parts saw.
Gotta find a parts saw or possibly this may become a parts saw.
This is the 1st tiome posting on this thread (I think),& I see some familiar names already! I've got several Pioneer saws - 2 1200A,I just got the last 1200a running last Sun.I also have an 1100 (identical to the XL12 Homie),& a bunch in the P series - P20,P26,etc.& about 3 1074s.I know I'm missing a couple.
The 1200A I was told that I'd have to pull the saw apart to put a new fuel line in the tank,but I found a way around that,it's called fabricating your own wrench,Lol.The saw sat in my garage since back in late Nov.& I thought I'd need to pull the carb again,but I just hooked up that short fuel line from the tank to the carb (what a PITA!),fuel it up & had to prime it twice & presto,I had a running 1200A! The saw was missing the bar plates & the tensioner screw & pin.I got those from Bob J.as he used to be a Pioneer dealer back in the day.As it turned out the adjuster screw was too short,but a stop at the hardware store solved that problem.
I've noticed that condensers for the Pioneer saws are few & far between.I'm assuming that you Pioneer guys are using the Nova chips?
The 1200A I was told that I'd have to pull the saw apart to put a new fuel line in the tank,but I found a way around that,it's called fabricating your own wrench,Lol.The saw sat in my garage since back in late Nov.& I thought I'd need to pull the carb again,but I just hooked up that short fuel line from the tank to the carb (what a PITA!),fuel it up & had to prime it twice & presto,I had a running 1200A! The saw was missing the bar plates & the tensioner screw & pin.I got those from Bob J.as he used to be a Pioneer dealer back in the day.As it turned out the adjuster screw was too short,but a stop at the hardware store solved that problem.
I've noticed that condensers for the Pioneer saws are few & far between.I'm assuming that you Pioneer guys are using the Nova chips?
Never had a bad condensor on all the points saws I have used over the years.If i neede one I would use one from a car a lawn mower outboard motor etc The condensors are all fairly close in micro farads.
Kash
Kash
Check wires for internal short. I had a bad wire in a 1200 that had broken internally. A wire tester is fairly reasonable and can be used for many things.
A multi meter is your friend if one is into any electrical/ wire chasing work. I have worn 3 of them out since the 60`s.
l think l have new output coil assy here and the trigger coil & condenser assy. l could look . lf you end up needing such.
Your P50 may have the Blue prestolite coil on the saw if its a later production unit.
I've had countless condensers go bad on the over 325 saws that I have.The saws are vintage '60's-'90's,a few '50's too,so the condensers are 50-60 yrs.old.Also,it's been proven that a condenser will go bad just sitting on a shelf.I've bought a few condensers on Feebay & have gotten bad ones that were "NOS".I've also found that the condenser can be way off in MFDs which will cause the saw to run erratically,almost like a misfire,or a skip.As for taking a condenser off a trtuck or car,well that went out the window back in the '70's-'80's as the auto industry went to electronic ignitions,same with a lawnmower.Pioneer saws aren't the only saws that used Phelon condensers exclusively.Mac used them exclusively as well,& Homelite used them 50/50 with Wico,but I've found that you can interchange the Wico & Phelon condensers to a point.Some of the condensers are different in diameter which prevents them from being interchanged.
We had a John Deere A on the farm back in the '70's that would start & run for a short time,but then die.We put new points in,changed the coil,all to no avail.Finally I told my dad to try a new condenser.We went into the garage & pulled one off of a Briggs engine that was on a 3.5 HP push mower,put it on the tractor & it fired up & ran great for yrs.afterward.I guess one can get lucky every now & then.
Does this help , lt is code for a colour l had paint colour match for the Farmsaw Orange. l was pleased with the results.
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Thank you! Now another question about the farm saw, did any of them come with a walbro coil?
I have four three complete and one parts saw. All are prestolite blue coils.
I purchased the aftermarket blue coil on amazon for $36 and was able to make it work. I used my original laminates, spliced a little more wire and bent the wire prong because the new coil puts it right on top of the decomp. I also reused the laminate retainer and used a nylon washer as a shim between laminate and coil to hold everything tight. I ran about a half tank of gas and tuned it some. It was getting dark so I couldn't do much more.
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