Pioneer chainsaws

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Thanks.
A good man kept it for me for a week. Said he had lots of people trying to get it and offering more.

I've been looking at pictures and that handle bar is not in to many. I might just make a cover for the sediment bowl for now and put an in line filter on and get it running. Might be a next winter project to restore it.
 
I got the parts I needed for the other Farmsaw from Trevor.I put the flywheel on & the recoil & checked for spark.I have good spark,but the PO took the decompression valve ou & put a plug int when he "converted" it to a P4?.I called Bob J.& he had one in stock & it's on the way.The PO also changed out the carb from the HS147 to an HS125.I'm wondering if anyone knows if the HS125 will work on the Farmsaw or not?My theory as to why the PO changed it was because the HS147 had a governor on it & the HS125 didn't?Any thoughts are welcome.
 
I got the parts I needed for the other Farmsaw from Trevor.I put the flywheel on & the recoil & checked for spark.I have good spark,but the PO took the decompression valve ou & put a plug int when he "converted" it to a P4?.I called Bob J.& he had one in stock & it's on the way.The PO also changed out the carb from the HS147 to an HS125.I'm wondering if anyone knows if the HS125 will work on the Farmsaw or not?My theory as to why the PO changed it was because the HS147 had a governor on it & the HS125 didn't?Any thoughts are welcome.
Thanks, I will call after the weekend.
I put a Walbro SDC from a P51 on a farmsaw it ran very well. But you could over rev it, and I mixed the oil a little richer.
 
Nice find on Saw. l think l have the new Bowl Gaskets if you end up needing one. are you looking for new handle, the one on your saw looks like a 4 digit full wrap. lt looks like it fits pretty good though.
I checked out that bar it looks like it was made for the saw. Can't see where anything was changed to fit it on there.
 
Your Full wrap looks like the one l have on my 2460 & 3270 . What l noticed on your saw were the 2 handle brace holes that a brace would be mounted / attached to on the Str housing above the Data plate. Maybe its the same full wrap with different mounting brackets and attachment points.
 
I got the parts I needed for the other Farmsaw from Trevor.I put the flywheel on & the recoil & checked for spark.I have good spark,but the PO took the decompression valve ou & put a plug int when he "converted" it to a P4?.I called Bob J.& he had one in stock & it's on the way.The PO also changed out the carb from the HS147 to an HS125.I'm wondering if anyone knows if the HS125 will work on the Farmsaw or not?My theory as to why the PO changed it was because the HS147 had a governor on it & the HS125 didn't?Any thoughts are welcome.

Not all HS 147 carbs had a governor . Homelite XL -76 , SXL-130, Vl-130 used the HS125 B carb but l cannot tell you whether it had a governor.
 
Happens a lot.
A few weeks ago I responded to an add for an old Stihl 050 or 075, he didn't know what it was $50 Only 1 picture? I said if it was in decent condition I would give him more, the guy said I was first and he would keep it for me. It was about a 2hr drive one way, texted in the morning before I left and he had sold it.
It makes a person feel like personally smartening up the liars. Glad I am not young any more or it would happen. fxer
Picked up a Pioneer 1750 a couple weeks ago I think it will be a good saw once I get a sediment bowl and the bowl clamp.
If anyone has one, they will part with.

Same part on 700, 750 smaller bowl than 600 series.
Will look to see if my 750 parts saw has one left on it tomorrow. fxer
 
Your Full wrap looks like the one l have on my 2460 & 3270 . What l noticed on your saw were the 2 handle brace holes that a brace would be mounted / attached to on the Str housing above the Data plate. Maybe its the same full wrap with different mounting brackets and attachment points.
I noticed the holes there also, just figured they were there for a half wrap bar. Never gave it much thought, but now I'm checking more out. Lol
 
The early P40 saws were equipped with the Non Governed HS 147 and then replaced with a Optional Pawl & str service kit that included a new flywheel , str housing & assembly , Governed, speed limiting HS147D Carb
The kit was designed to replace the Bendix pinion type Str to the newer pawl type Str.
Any P40 saws prior to serial number 950781 were probably equipped with a non govenor carb
Buletin #691 ,, 1976 Year
 

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Thanks that would be great
Nothing on saw. It looks like that area of saw is badly corroded and there is a hose running direct from tank to carb. Also it had no filter in line in the hose. Too bad, this morning dug up a small box to send it to you as I was sure it had one on it. fxer Actually it looks the same as your third photo of your saw with hose only badly corroded there.
 
Nothing on saw. It looks like that area of saw is badly corroded and there is a hose running direct from tank to carb. Also it had no filter in line in the hose. Too bad, this morning dug up a small box to send it to you as I was sure it had one on it. fxer Actually it looks the same as your third photo of your saw with hose only badly corroded there.
I managed to get the parts I needed today along with a few more parts
 

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Your Full wrap looks like the one l have on my 2460 & 3270 . What l noticed on your saw were the 2 handle brace holes that a brace would be mounted / attached to on the Str housing above the Data plate. Maybe its the same full wrap with different mounting brackets and attachment points.
Thanks.
A good man kept it for me for a week. Said he had lots of people trying to get it and offering more.

I've been looking at pictures and that handle bar is not in to many. I might just make a cover for the sediment bowl for now and put an in line filter on and get it running. Might be a next winter project to restore it.

I am just now seeing this post of another awesome 1750 saw. That is the proper full wrap for that saw. The handle is straight when looking from the side. 1770s curved back at the bottom. What you are seeing on the recoil cover are mounting holes used for the handle bracket of the prior 700s, 750s, 850s and the then-current 1850. Pioneer used the same fan shroud through the production run. Look at the 1850 and you'll the fuel tank has the unused holes for the wrap brackets of the direct drives. All cost savings.
 
Checked the saws out a bit, a few hard to find parts there.
S620 runs good as is.
750 high top air filter, I heard a Mike Acres design because the saws would stall when turned down on the flywheel side in snow.
NOS 750 rings
Foot hold and brackets for RA
The 600 has a rare rope handle made with a piece of deer antler.
Pioneer 650 Manual
 

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Been playing around with my new to me p60 today as it seemed hard to start lately. Changed all fuel lines and filter as it was plugged and flushed the tank. Took carb off and cleaned it and checked openings thru reed valve, not dirty. Put it back together and starts ok now. Set lo and hi roughly 1 and a half turns and tried it. Was idling a little low,raised the idle a little bit. Top end seems good but hesitates a little bit from idle. Does that mean my low is too lean? I could not find the info on proper number of turns on hi and low needles to start carb set up. Be for I cleaned it the hi was two turns out and the low was about one turn out. It has lots of compression, nearly took my arm off when I forgot the valve. Also checked thru exhaust and it looks good. Fxer
 
Your Low & High presets should be 1-1/4 low and 1-1/8 high to start . open up your low 1/8 turn out a little bit more to give the saw a little more gas when you crack on throttle , this may resolve your lean , otherwise it may also flooding itself out a little bit because of your metering lever set to high in the carb.
l would check those 2 things first.
 
Sounds like your pretty darn close to me.

Getting a big bog when you hit the throttle may very well be a slightly lean lo jet.

Every saws seems slightly different to tune but I usually start off with 1 to 1.5 on the lo , 1.25 on the hi and just slightly touch the idle screw against the lever. If it will idle like that great! If not then slowly close the lo a bit.

It can be bit of a chase your tail game with the idle speed and lo jet.

It doesn’t always work out perfect but that’s my starting method.
 
Your Low & High presets should be 1-1/4 low and 1-1/8 high to start . open up your low 1/8 turn out a little bit more to give the saw a little more gas when you crack on throttle , this may resolve your lean , otherwise it may also flooding itself out a little bit because of your metering lever set to high in the carb.
l would check those 2 things first.
Will work on it tomorrow.Thanks for info. By the way metering lever was flush with the flats when I took it apart and was put back same way. May be I moved it accidentally when puting it back together. If the low adjustments don,t work will check out lever. New spark plug shows slight brownish colour. Am running 30-1 synthetic amsoil with airplane fuel in all my pioneer saws. fxer
 
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