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Pioneer Farmsaw Adventure

Discussion in 'Chainsaw' started by RC Cole, Nov 17, 2019.

  1. RC Cole

    RC Cole ArboristSite Lurker

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    Went to start a old Pioneer Farm Saw I got last year. It ran then. It fired very erratic for about 3-4 seconds, then nada. Cranked on it until my pacemaker fired :blob2:. Figured it might be the fuel line or filter. Ended up taking the handle off trying to trace the fuel line. When I pulled the filter out the line broke with very little pressure. Came back in and saw a post where ? Pioneerguy600 ? mentioned that you removed the starter and there was a fitting that was removed to get to the fuel line in the tank . Boy I was afraid I was gonna have to split the case to put the fuel line on :dumb:. The line I have for the Poulans are too small so have ordered some 1/4 od 1/8 id tygon and some filters. The starter assembly looks great , the air filter worn but serviceable . I know just enough about mechanical items to get myself in trouble.Any recommendation or do's and don'ts ?? Oh I am cleaning it a little:rock:
    2019-11-16 20.09.34.jpg 2019-11-16 20.09.44.jpg
     
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  2. Pioneer

    Pioneer ArboristSite Operative

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    Pretty much identical to my p-40, watch for debonding of the mesh air filter at it's borders, this will let dust in. Make sure it's oiling properly, the felt crank seal can wear and leak. I've had no other issues with my saw, the fuel lines are easy to replace, and in general it's a pretty easy saw to work on.
     
  3. pioneerguy600

    pioneerguy600 Lost in Space Staff Member

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    The blue module failing to make spark is a common problem for these saws, check to see if there is spark if the saw stops again.
     
  4. RC Cole

    RC Cole ArboristSite Lurker

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    Thanks for the tip was a bit concerned when I saw the tape but she is sparking. How easy should it be to turn the flywheel by hand ?
     
  5. pioneerguy600

    pioneerguy600 Lost in Space Staff Member

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    See that round metal disc just behind the blue module, that is a decompressor for the cylinder, push and hold that inward , the flywheel should turn fairly easy. These saws have very good compression if the P&C is in good shape and turning the flywheel past top dead center is difficult, the decomp helps relieve the compression and makes it easier to turn over.
     
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  6. Tom B.

    Tom B. ArboristSite Operative

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    By hand meaning by cord. Turning the flywheel by hand should be near impossible. I've seen lots test compression by holding the saw up by the pull cord and give it a little tug upwards. It should hold & possibly hear a 'pop' out the exhaust as the engine rotates a cycle. Comparatively, if the decompression is used it should turn easily.
     
  7. pioneerguy600

    pioneerguy600 Lost in Space Staff Member

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    One needs to remember that the decomp on the Farmsaw is automatic if all the working parts are in place, any time the cord is pulled the decomp will be pressed in automatically so the hold it up by the cord test will always fail if all the mechanisms are working correctly. If the actuator is missing on a Farmsaw the engaging mechanisms of the starter will be quickly destroyed.
     
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  8. Tom B.

    Tom B. ArboristSite Operative

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    Very interesting. So my post is just 'in general', it's a test for compression. Glad pioneerguy cleared that up before the OP got wrong information.
     
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  9. pioneerguy600

    pioneerguy600 Lost in Space Staff Member

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    Ya, in general the hang the saw by the cord test works, just some saws in the Pioneer lineup have the automatic decomps, that has fooled a good many people on the drop test.
     
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  10. RC Cole

    RC Cole ArboristSite Lurker

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    No I was turning the flywheel by hand. NOw that said I had pushed in the decompression button, before I tried to turn it. turned way easy. Fuel line arrived today will try to get the saw running tomorrow evening. . If I am super low on compression the lil red barn has a piston ring assembly I may try. If so I will be begging knowledge . I kinda like the old saw. Thanks for all the input..
     
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  11. RC Cole

    RC Cole ArboristSite Lurker

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    the project continues. got the fuel line on ( amazing what a heat gun and a little grease will do.Uh what is this ??? IMG_20191122_194254.jpg
    found it in the tank. noted the ? red loctite on the fasteners but went back with blue ( medium) is that ok?
    She fired up in about 5 pulls. only ran it a few seconds ( just long enough to wake the neighbors baby up:laughing:). back to the bench and pulled the muffler because it pulls REALLY easily. and I found this . So I have a few questions that maybe someone who has experience can answer. I have never done anything with a chain saw successfully except replace fuel lines and sharpen a chain.
    Though I hate to have something dismantled for long ( I will forget how it came apart) I figure I need to pull the cylinder first to make sure I can get by with just piston and rings. Saw those on Lil Red Barn. If I need a cylinder will a Farmsaw 2 top end work? I saw a used piston cylinder on Ebay for a FS2. Since I have not seen a Farmsaw base gasket is there a specific thickness of gasket material I will need? Will grey RTV do just as well? Any other advice or recommendations for part sources. This old saw just speaks to me. Oh I have been running Husqvarna 2 stroke oil at 40:1 since I hadn't even thought that that might not be a good idea. later gentlemen..
    IMG_20191122_194732.jpg IMG_20191122_195003.jpg IMG_20191122_194957.jpg
     
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  12. pioneerguy600

    pioneerguy600 Lost in Space Staff Member

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    The black disc is out of the fuel cap, it is supposed to hold the cap vent parts in and a retainer chain is hooked to it on one end, the other end connects to a keeper spring that stays inside the tank most times. Sort of works a a lanyard to keep track of the fuel cap.
     
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  13. RC Cole

    RC Cole ArboristSite Lurker

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    I figure it was part of a venting mechanism. But ya never know. Neither caps have keepers. When I can get back to it gonna pull the cylinder. From what I can see it doesn't look terrible. I have read that the farm saw is a two ring piston, but I see a lot of single ring pistons for sale. Also would I have to split the cases to replace the crankshaft seals?? Dont think I am ready for that. Spent the day harvesting a white oak blow down. It like to have whooped my butt. Had to build up the last wheel and back the splitter foot ( vertical) under it and split it into 12 pieces just to load it. Naturally my buddy shows up after I have it all but loaded. lol
     
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  14. pioneerguy600

    pioneerguy600 Lost in Space Staff Member

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    The seals can be pulled and re installed without splitting the case, they are the same seal on both sides.
     
  15. RC Cole

    RC Cole ArboristSite Lurker

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    thanks, just ordered 2
     
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  16. RC Cole

    RC Cole ArboristSite Lurker

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    will the single ring piston work or do I need to find a two ring piston ?
     
  17. pioneerguy600

    pioneerguy600 Lost in Space Staff Member

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    Not sure myself, all the Farmsaws I have worked on had two rings, I believe the FM II had a single ring piston, never swapped one.
     
  18. RC Cole

    RC Cole ArboristSite Lurker

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    Maybe the piston will be good and I can just put a new ring on
     
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  19. RC Cole

    RC Cole ArboristSite Lurker

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    Is this thing metric or SAE? I had used metric nut drivers to get off the muffler.
     
  20. RC Cole

    RC Cole ArboristSite Lurker

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    But when I went to loosen the cylinder bolts there 3/16.just had a couple of hours after I got off work but this really unwinds me
     

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