They are simple machines, just a few moving parts, no where as many that`s inside an automatic transmission.I don't feel so bad about taking it apart now that I got it to run
Pioneer Farmsaw Adventure
- Thread starter RC Cole
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Sometimes I feel dumber than a bag of hammers. Every Time I perform the compression test I get varying results . I always take the best. Still when the best is 130PSI , ( 130, 80,60,40) I figure something is wrong. So go to pop in the LRB piston and rings. Done this so much lately I should be getting good at it ( NOT) , Little things like fishing out the base nuts so I don't have to remove the flywheel ( I hate the thread wear that comes with the on and off) Duh , how ya gonna get the base bolts threaded. Or putting the flywheel on to soon and have to take it back off.
I digress, When trying to line up the LRB piston it wa tight. tapped it with a plastic hammer to do the line up after I get the keepers in I realize that the wrist pin is firmly bound , not enough clearance at the interior piston bosses. Take it back down ( gonna send the unit back to LRB) put the old piston back in again. Spend at least 20 minutes failing the primary pressure / vacuum test before I realize that I never put the decompression plug back in, ( BIG DUH). Then it dawns on me I have a dremel, its just aluminum, rather than send it back I can shave the bosses. Oh well better than work. Strangely relaxing. Gotta see if I can find a new wrist pin bearing tomorrow ( I think a rat ate the new one)
I am using the design technology compression tester and cannot understand why the readings go down if I perform consecutive tests. Any body else have issues with these units or am I getting Alzheimer's so bad I can't use a compression tester ?????
later Gentlemen
I digress, When trying to line up the LRB piston it wa tight. tapped it with a plastic hammer to do the line up after I get the keepers in I realize that the wrist pin is firmly bound , not enough clearance at the interior piston bosses. Take it back down ( gonna send the unit back to LRB) put the old piston back in again. Spend at least 20 minutes failing the primary pressure / vacuum test before I realize that I never put the decompression plug back in, ( BIG DUH). Then it dawns on me I have a dremel, its just aluminum, rather than send it back I can shave the bosses. Oh well better than work. Strangely relaxing. Gotta see if I can find a new wrist pin bearing tomorrow ( I think a rat ate the new one)
I am using the design technology compression tester and cannot understand why the readings go down if I perform consecutive tests. Any body else have issues with these units or am I getting Alzheimer's so bad I can't use a compression tester ?????
later Gentlemen
I can get good consecutive comp tests with my older brands of comp testers but I have to change the inlet valves fairly often. They get specks of dirt/carbon on them, even oil and they go ratty. The gauge is often blamed but its most likely the Schrader valve having an issue.
Brand new gauge and holds pressure great. Hope to reassemble today and will attempt fire up when this liquid sunshine eases up. Got my son (15) to help me assemble the new tool cart before we tackled the trailer tires and bearings. I tried to convince him that is is just like Legos. Didn't work./
Do you have a Canadian source for these valves?
No. The unit is brand new. It holds the pressure real good. I haven't tried it on any of the other saws. Guess I should try it on the 2166 it should be great since it's brand new.I misplace today somewhere so I have to wait until Monday to be able to get a new wrist pin bearing. Then I'll see if the two ring piston makes any difference. Wish they still made parts for these old girls. The next saw I practice
song will be something that I can find parts for.
Snap On truck.
I thought that would be a good source and the truck was always visiting the facility where I used to work but I can't seem to find a "shop" that they work out of. Guess I will have to try chasing down one of the tucks.
They are independent owners working a franchise,as far as I know there is no store or warehouse stocking/selling their stuff. Ask for the white collar Schrader valves, they are somewhat softer spring wise than the regular valves used on automotive engines.
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Valve core for compression tester.
https://www.ebay.com/p/4017015166?iid=192007043732
https://www.ebay.com/p/4017015166?iid=192007043732
Thanks for the info, but they don't ship to Canada and at $8.15 + shipping that's a lot for 1 valve. I'm thinking of checking a plumbing shop, some home well water systems use a snifter valve and the valve uses the same low pressure valve core.
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I will check in the garage but I think I have another valve out there. PM me your address and I will send it to you.
So with the compression at 138 I decided to go ahead and do the assembly. got to the Tillotson and had recently seen another use for the Mityvac. So I gave it some pressure and Nada zip nothing held. Took the metering side apart and Lo and Behold the tiny spring was cocked and doing its best to escape. Corrected and reassembled, Waa Laaa , 18 psi before it popped off. I am thrilled when things work like they are supposed to ( especially after I have disassembled them) . finished putting it back together poured in some mix 8 pulls and she fired right up since it was late I will wait until tomorrow to adjust the carb. I really expect better results this time. later y'all.
Well before my wood gathering escapade and the subsequent myocardial infarction ( medical speak for heart attack) I fired the Canadian Beauty back up. She musta been drunk cause she kept puking oil out the muffler. I had to turn the Lo in to about 1/4 turn to keep her running. When I first put the carb kit in I removed the welch plugs. The smaller plug had no screen but since the kit came with a screen in it I installed that screen. This is the only thing I can think of . I plan to pull the carb tomorrow and remove the plug and screen. OOPS , just reread the Tillotson info. I may have put one of the gaskets/ diaphragms in wrong. Apparently they do not go in the same way for each one . Pump diaphragm is diaphragm, then gasket then cover. Main Diaphragm is gasket then diaphragm then cover. All this is backwards from the youtube video I watched. They say intelligence is being able to recognize a mistake the second time that you make it. 
boatyard i used to work at...
"we dont do things twice around here, we do it three times"
"we dont do things twice around here, we do it three times"
Svlmustang
ArboristSite Lurker
So did you get it figured out?
Ok as suggested I did another pressure test to see if I was getting bar oil into the bottom end , the Farmsaw held 15 psi pressure for over 10 minutes and 10 psi of vacuum for over 10 minutes. during the pressure test I put a soap bubble " seal" over the bar oil fill port, it never expanded.of course it only lasted 15-30 seconds. While stripping it for the pressure test I noted that the muffler and decompression valve both had black oil all over. I did use a pipette to put 2-3 cc of two stroke oil onto the bearings and lower connecting rod journal But I have run it at least 10 minutes since then. Since I get the same symptoms from two different carburetors I plan to rinse the bottom end out with some 40:1 mix ( through the reed block opening) before reassembly. Suggestions, ideas, comments ???
run it in wood?
needs to get hot to start burnin/dryin up the muff.
will smoke til it is clean/dry.
needs to get hot to start burnin/dryin up the muff.
will smoke til it is clean/dry.
