Pioneer Farmsaw Adventure

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Fuel ratio should be 26:1. That's the mixture I use in my 2 Farmsaws.

Edit: Forgot to mention never use fuel that has the corn ethenal whatever. I did one year and the fuel cap swelled so much could only remove it with channel locks. Also that fuel loves to absorb moisture.
 
The adventure continues, I stole some time to play with the old Canadian Beauty. It is a single ring piston. I have a two ring coming from Lil Red Barn , we'll see. the cylinder looks pretty good, I can't feel anything . I made rookie mistakes . had to snug the cylinder back down ( got ahead of myself) and panicked when the cylinder would not tighten until I realized the the nut had dropped behind the flywheel difficult to recover. And then I did it again :dumb:. Removing the wrist pin was a hassle. One keeper was cooperative and one was destroyed in the attempt. Looking back on it I should have removed it from the first side where the keeper was so easy Duh :dumb:. Awaiting on the gear puller to remove the flywheel. removed the oil pump easy enough but not sure what method to use with the pump drive. I have new seals but am scared of messing something up by trying to replace them.. any comment or recommendations ??
 

Attachments

  • Piston1resized.PNG
    Piston1resized.PNG
    1.2 MB · Views: 26
  • Piston2 resize.PNG
    Piston2 resize.PNG
    860.5 KB · Views: 26
  • Piston3 resize.PNG
    Piston3 resize.PNG
    1.2 MB · Views: 28
  • Cylinder 1 resize.PNG
    Cylinder 1 resize.PNG
    1.4 MB · Views: 26
Many have pried the pump drive off a little at a time with screwdrivers but a puller works better. A puller can be made from a black iron or galvanized threaded pipe coupling , it will thread on the drive far enough to allow a 3 jaw puller to engage the coupling and the drive can be pulled off. Seals are easy enough but care must be taken during removal not to damage the seal pockets in the case. Many seals have been removed carefully with just a screwdriver but it takes careful handiwork. A sheet metal screw threaded in a pre drilled hole in the metal part of the seal will give purchase to pull the seal with pliers, tap the seal in a slight bit first to break it free of its grip in the pocket.
 
It helps a lot to heat the piston with a heat gun before trying to push the pin out or in, they are a tight fit.
Thanks , I should have thought about that but didn't.. I stopped and picked up a 1/2" and 3/4 inch coupling. The 1/2 " threaded right on just waiting now on my Fleabay puller to arrive. What kind of filter in in the bar oil tank?? Thanks again
 
Yes, just wash and blow out, good to go again.

Well 3 jaw puller came in so I ran out and and it pulled the oiler drive off pretty easily using the 1/2 coupling. Thanks Then I discovered that I need a different puller for the flywheel. found bolts that will work so I make one. Any where I can get torque specs ? mainly concerned about the cylinder bolt . Inch pound torque wrench to arrive shortly. I appreciate any info..
 
It's me again Margaret , Very pleased the new LED lit up my work area so no more angling a flashlight so I can see what I am doing ....AND the Lisle seal puller came. Took 20 seconds to figure out what to do. I initially thought I would have to go side to side but saw that I could move the fulcrum up to the shoulder holding the seal and 5 seconds later it was out with one pull. Had to come in and get a fire going but Saturday I will get a chance to start putting the Canadian Beauty back together. I would probably do the bearings but this is the first time I have done more than replace fuel lines or an ignition module on a chainsaw. I have never done a primary or secondary pressure test but bought the tools. I also registered at the local community college for a small engine repair course. Way back when I used to climb for a tree service ( was known as the Scaredest Climber in Craven County) but have been an ED nurse for the last 35 years , I am still trying to figure out why I chose the Farmsaw to learn on. I have several big box type Poulans that would be a less expensive lesson. Oh well live and lean, get Alzheimers and forget it all.
 
They are all just machines, from single cylinder air cooled to 16 cylinder liquid cooled and all in between are just internal combustion engines, just different in size.
Well size and intimidation factor. I am not really that worried but I would hate to mess up a nice vintage saw because I just jumped in without considering how hard replacement parts could be. Oh by the way. is it essential , or highly recommended to replace the base gasket ? I have some gasket material enroute but if its not overly important for this saw I will probably keep the OEM in place. The only ones I found were used.
 
pulled the 1 ring piston out and cleaned it up. looks much better. I am thinking to use this instead of the two ring I got from Lil Red Barn. I could not see the markings on top before I cleaned it. A big E. I marked the piston "keeper" ? with a red mark. If I recall the mark should go towards the exhaust port. Right? That would put the keeper and end gap away from the exhaust port. Also do I need the pioneer wrist pin keepers or will the Husky G style be as good? I will try my hand at gasket cutting tomorrow night. Piston3 resize.PNG 2019-12-12 20.48.01.jpg 2019-12-12 20.52.12.jpg
 
Its me again..
found out the base gasket only fits one way. mad a " tool" ? to put in the wrist pin, spent 20 minutes deciding if the keepers were seated. ( Had a keeper come loose on a 75 Sportster once). Cut a nice exhaust gasket out of the base gasket material , researched, ordered exhaust gasket material. made a plate to black exhaust with an old motorcycle inspection sticker plate. Do not like the look of the decompression valve The end that goes into the cylinder looks slightly bent when I push the plunger. Since the starter is a failure prone part if used without a valve, would any other valves interchange. I figure push comes to shove I can drill and change the thread to work for a Husky or Stihl valve. Randy's small engine has one 3/8 x 24 thread but is 5/8 " the Canadian Beauty's is about 1/4" long. Any advice ??
 
Its me again..
found out the base gasket only fits one way. mad a " tool" ? to put in the wrist pin, spent 20 minutes deciding if the keepers were seated. ( Had a keeper come loose on a 75 Sportster once). Cut a nice exhaust gasket out of the base gasket material , researched, ordered exhaust gasket material. made a plate to black exhaust with an old motorcycle inspection sticker plate. Do not like the look of the decompression valve The end that goes into the cylinder looks slightly bent when I push the plunger. Since the starter is a failure prone part if used without a valve, would any other valves interchange. I figure push comes to shove I can drill and change the thread to work for a Husky or Stihl valve. Randy's small engine has one 3/8 x 24 thread but is 5/8 " the Canadian Beauty's is about 1/4" long. Any advice ??
Before I started modifying anything I would put an ad in the Classifieds forum looking for a decomp valve.
 
Back
Top