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Pioneer Farmsaw Advice

njs22

njs22

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Hello all,

I was lucky enough to pickup a pioneer farmsaw 1982 model I think( and a nice older homelite too, but that's the next project)by the side of the road the other day. Anyhow the Farmsaw won't start (of course) and I'd love to fix it up. It was pretty gummed up but after some careful cleaning looks to be in great shape..so far I have:

- fixed the starter pull so it retracts and engages nicely
- Checked for a spark - yup there's a spark!
- Checked fuel lines - they are solid and fuel is getting thru
- cleaned out the fuel and put new mix in (1:24 right?)
- cleaned the carb a little - looks fine on the inside
- Looked thru the forums here for other ideas :O) pulling the exhaust and looking at the cylinder/exhaust valve next.

I HAVE noticed that when i pull the starter with the carb removed there is a lot of air coming back out of the cylinder in the direction of the carb, as well as some coming out of the exhaust - faulty reed valve maybe?

I'd really appreciate any other suggestions folks have out there to get this beauty running. Pics to follow.

Thanks!!!
 
pioneerguy600

pioneerguy600

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I would take out the reed block,check it over carefully, often they crack around the mounting studs, also the gasket behind the reed block often gets soggy and falls apart. Its difficult to test the compression on the farmsaw as it has an automatic decomp that actuates when the starter handle is pulled. The wire like actuator needs to be removed to get a compression check on this saw. Also the recoil parts are quite weak on this saw, don`t pull one over really forcefully with the decomp deactivated as it can damage the center plastic parts of the starter mechanism.
 
chainmaster

chainmaster

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I would rebuild the carburetor buy a new kit there is two types of carburetor for the farmsaw Wallbro SDC-79 or Tillotson HS-147D Wallbro minor kit is D10-SC Tillotson is a DG4-HS/T clean with carburetor cleaner make sure the little fuel filter inside is clean. remove the muffler to see if there is any scoring
 
njs22

njs22

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Gentlemen - thanks for both your replies. I'll do both and report back. Really want to get this saw working - shes a beauty.
 
njs22

njs22

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Ok guys I'm back, go to do a little more disassembly tonight, this time with pictures - my observations/questions

- Reed valve definitely isn't air tight from the cylinder side out ( yes I tried blowing through it with my mouth- very scientific) - looks clean tho -no cracks

- Gasket is a bit leathery but was intact - can i use gasket maker to ensure a seal on rebuild?

- Piston moves freely in the cylinder, no scoring on the inside cylinder walls

- piston has some carbon on top -(last pic) doesn't look bad though right?

- Added a picture to the yet untouched/unidentified Homelite - just for fun :O)

Next steps will be find and check the exhaust valve, (presumably in exhaust housing), probably replace reed valve, clean the carb a bit better..., put her back together and give her another go....It'd be great if you guys have could share any observations/other ideas from my pics. Thanks again
 

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chainmaster

chainmaster

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It all looks good to me if you want to make new gasket go to any auto parts store shoul have gasket material I buy mine on Canadian tire I would put all together and try if it fires it's all best to replace the fuel line inside the tank and new filter
 
pioneerguy600

pioneerguy600

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Ok guys I'm back, go to do a little more disassembly tonight, this time with pictures - my observations/questions

- Reed valve definitely isn't air tight from the cylinder side out ( yes I tried blowing through it with my mouth- very scientific) - looks clean tho -no cracks

- Gasket is a bit leathery but was intact - can i use gasket maker to ensure a seal on rebuild?

- Piston moves freely in the cylinder, no scoring on the inside cylinder walls

- piston has some carbon on top -(last pic) doesn't look bad though right?

- Added a picture to the yet untouched/unidentified Homelite - just for fun :O)

Next steps will be find and check the exhaust valve, (presumably in exhaust housing), probably replace reed valve, clean the carb a bit better..., put her back together and give her another go....It'd be great if you guys have could share any observations/other ideas from my pics. Thanks again
Next step is to clean all the parts really well, check to see if the reed is sealing tight to the block, make a new gasket,don`t use that oil soaked old one. Sealer is not needed between the gaskets, often it becomes a source of contamination or causes an air leak on intake tracts. There is no exhaust valve on a two stroke chainsaw, just clean up the carbon best you can without getting any inside the cylinder. Does the decomp move freely in and out without sticking?
 
njs22

njs22

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Thanks again guys.
VAlleyfirewood- let's see if I can get this thing ring then maybe- I'll PM you.

I'll hit Canadian tire today and get some gasket material. always happy for an excuse to hit Canadian tire. Will do fuel line too.

I'll check the decomp valve free movement tonight too.

Not immediately sure where hi lo screws are located on the carb but will find them... Then ask u guys which is which. :)

Will post back with results. Appreciate the help guys.
 
njs22

njs22

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Perfect- thanks. Hey when u say " gasket material" you mean sheet material right? And not RTV style liquid stuff in a tube...
 
njs22

njs22

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hello again gentlemen,

got some gasket sheets today. A-cuttin I shall go over the weekend. I've attached a "stock" photo of my carb, hoping you guys can point me to which is the Hi/Lo out of the two screws shown - couldnt see an H or L designation anywhere. Then i shall adjust them per the suggestions above.

Will clean the carb more too.Question - If I "apply compressed air" ( meaning I blow through it) to the fuel inlet should I expect to find air flowing through the carb in some way? It isn't right now, but I'd imagine the aperture may be tiny...?

thanks as always.
 

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chainmaster

chainmaster

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No don't blow air thru the fuel inline on less you have a part and your looking at the picture Lo is on the right screw Hi is on the left when you put the carb back in place you Lo screw is the left Hi is on the right
 
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