please help me figure out what to do with my ms660.

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It sounds like a crankcase seal is chowdered and the spring is giving the transfers and sides of the piston pure hell. Probably chunks of plastic bearing cage too based on the mentioning of the clogged screen in the muffler.
 
A spark plug coming loose several times could indicate that the cylinder thread is worn. A loose plug causes bad compression and false air.
 
It sounds like a crankcase seal is chowdered and the spring is giving the transfers and sides of the piston pure hell. Probably chunks of plastic bearing cage too based on the mentioning of the clogged screen in the muffler.
srcreen in the muffler was clean. screen behind the air filter was clogged. Thanks
 
A spark plug coming loose several times could indicate that the cylinder thread is worn. A loose plug causes bad compression and false air.
spark plug came loose one time, The cylinder thread looks perfect. threads on the little nipple (on top of the plug) got wasted after they got loose and vibration got to them.
 
The top of edge of the piston seems to be showing small indentation marks like it swallowed something & hammered the piston top, I'd be investigating it further before running it anymore.
Tanski
Is it a big job to dig inside the cylinder? I know on some saws, you literally have to take the saw completely apart
 
spark plug came loose one time, The cylinder thread looks perfect. threads on the little nipple (on top of the plug) got wasted after they got loose and vibration got to them.
Is that spark plug a resistor type? Most non resistor plugs have a threaded tip. You may have the wrong type of plug.
 
Is that spark plug a resistor type? Most non resistor plugs have a threaded tip. You may have the wrong type of plug.
Not really sure what you mean by "resistor type". I was talking about the nipple or the tip that the wire hooks onto. Got the saw brand new with this plug at one dealer. Couple months back was at a different stihl dealer and picked up a spare plug for it, brought it home and compared it to make sure I got the right one, sure enough it had the same number on it
 
Is it a big job to dig inside the cylinder? I know on some saws, you literally have to take the saw completely apart
For a start I'd just visually inspect the top of the piston through the spark plug hole with the piston at TDC, or get a video bore scope & have a look at BDC.
Thansk
 
Is it a big job to dig inside the cylinder? I know on some saws, you literally have to take the saw completely apart
It's simple. All you'll need is the T-handle Stihl t-27 torx tool and a small but long flathead screwdriver. Remove the muffler, then remove the four bolts to remove the top handlebar, then the top cover. There is no need to remove the rear tank/handle or carburetor. It'll now be a good time to loosen the four cylinder bolts which is what you need the special Stihl torx tool for. After that you should be able to reach the intake boot clamp with the flathead to loosen it enough for it to slip off as you lift the cylinder from the base.

It's always a good idea to use an air hose nozzle or something to pick the sawdust gunk clean around the cylinder base before loosening the bolts.
 
Update. I purchased a t-27 off ebay, will provide pictures when I take it apart. I am hoping I can take a very fine sand paper and polish the piston and maybe the bore and throw it back in. Is that a good idea?
 
Update. I purchased a t-27 off ebay, will provide pictures when I take it apart. I am hoping I can take a very fine sand paper and polish the piston and maybe the bore and throw it back in. Is that a good idea?
No it isn't if too much material needs removed. New oem pistons are only like $55. It's the cost of a whole cylinder kit that kills you.
 
Check flea bay for a cylinder sometime a OEM piston and cylinder pop up. Its a 1000 dollar saw so invest a little money have a nice one
 
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