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Plunge cut with trigger

Discussion in 'Commercial Tree Care and Climbing' started by beastmaster, Apr 13, 2017.

  1. beastmaster

    beastmaster Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Some may remember my rant on the mandatory plunge cut with a trigger thats required for some of my jobs.
    Well after using it for a while I've changed my veiw some. The object of the cut is to allow the feller to get a way from the tree before it falls.
    Recently we were falling a large fir tree. It was about 10 ft from a house. Tree was about 100ft tall and 38 dbh. There was a rope in it. And it was hooked to a 5 to 1.
    The face cut put in. Then it was plunged cut with a 2 in. hinge and a 4 inch trigger was made. The trigger was cut the feller stepped a way from the tree. While safely away from tree the command was yelled pull.
    The tree started barber chairing. There was a basal tie in that held it or slowed it down. It looked like the back was going to hit the house then in the wink of an eye it split fell maybe 30 degrees to the right of where it was suppose to. It jumped 4 ft to the left of the stump. Man it could of ruined our day for sure if we hadn't been safely away.
     
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  2. ksvanbrunt

    ksvanbrunt ArboristSite Member

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    Surprised there arent more responses to this.
    Glad nobody was injured. Potentially too much force on the 5:1? Hope you took pictures and documented for future education regarding the bore release
     
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  3. Zale

    Zale Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Glad your safe. Sounds like too much pull?
     
  4. Daniel Zimbrich

    Daniel Zimbrich New Member

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    Newb here, what is a trigger? Maybe I know what it is but confused by the terminology. Glad that worked out for you.
    Thanks
    Dan
     
  5. Zale

    Zale Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Last cut on the back of the tree.
     
  6. Catfish Hunter

    Catfish Hunter ArboristSite Lurker

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    I was wondering if the 2" hinge is too much especially with the 5 to 1?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  7. beastmaster

    beastmaster Addicted to ArboristSite

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    No not at all minimum 4 inches on any trigger. It'll pop.
     
  8. beastmaster

    beastmaster Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Oh im sorry i thought you ment on the trigger. Make the same hinge you'd always use.
     
  9. Trx250r180

    Trx250r180 Saw polisher

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    Is there a reason cant just use reg back cut with wedges ? Was it rotted in the center ?
     
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  10. JRoland

    JRoland ArboristSite Operative

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    At the job he was on, any tree over 10 feet tall had to have a rope in it, any tree over 12" DBH has to be bore cut with a trigger.
     
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  11. Climb Higher

    Climb Higher ArboristSite Lurker

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    Like many I was taught a progressive back cut with wedges, only used plunge for heavy leaners. Just attended a professional timber harvester class here in Missouri though where the plunge with trigger is the standard, used on most every tree. Very interesting, possible pro and cons running thru my head after the class. Their logic is that most all dangerous situations do not start until the tree begins to move and with the plunge / trigger method the feller is 2 or 3 big steps away from the tree when it is "released' via the trigger. Widow makers falling typically strike fellers in that 10" near trunk radius, barber chairs less deadly if you are already running thru the woods vs knelt down next to the tree still hinge trimming and as yet unaware of the first signs of movement.

    So thats all good and well, but I do miss the feedback that the progressive back cut and wedges offer. Midcourse adjustments like wedging one side a bit more, watching the wedges for droop or looseness that would indicate crown movement, etc. With plunge cut method you do your homework and then hit the launch button and with a loud pop it all either works or doesn't.

    Wedges are often used with the plunge, to counteract tree lean vs intended fall but thats a bit interesting too, how many whacks with axe to drive that wedge? will the hinge or trigger break with too much wedge pressure, will it be ineffective with too little. With typical back cut and wedging its a progressive dance, adjusting as you go.

    Anyway, new at this one as a standard. Safer, i got to think it is, great for pro loggers, for guys who need the utmost accuracy in suburberbs, maybe using ropes too, etc.... is it the best some or all of the time? Appreciate thoughts here, best wishes.
     
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  12. Marshy

    Marshy 285 Killa

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    I don't like to use a plunge and trigger if the tree is neutral and has no committed lean. The risk of crown movement and a chair is low. I like the ability to use the progressive back cut and wedges to steer a tree. Like you said, the tree has to be large enough also or it gets crowded. If it's leaning in the desired direction of fall and I plunge cut I'll back bar right through the trigger. If it's a heavy lean then I'll come out of the cut and come from behind. Giggidy.

    We had a really good thread discussion on learner's and bore cutting. If I can find it I'll share.
     
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  13. ATH

    ATH Addicted to ArboristSite

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    It is nothing terribly new. Soren Eriksson was teaching Game of Logging all over the place 25-30+ years ago... (Probably longer than 25 as I was first introduced to it 20 years ago). But unless you've been to an organized 3rd party training or worked for somebody who has......
     
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  14. Climb Higher

    Climb Higher ArboristSite Lurker

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    Hey Marshy, appreciate the thread reference, look forward to reading comments there. I am a best practices junky I guess, always ejoyed learning optimal ways to do stuff. Share your approach...

    And yes, I believe Sren was the Johnny Appleseed of this plunge and trigger every tree approach, the guy got around it seams ;-)
     
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  15. Marshy

    Marshy 285 Killa

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  16. Marshy

    Marshy 285 Killa

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    Another tip for you. Cut your trigger below the plunge cut. If the tree is a leaner and decides to go before your through your trigger then the saw is going with the tree. Also, cut your trigger flat like you would any other back cut.
     
  17. Climb Higher

    Climb Higher ArboristSite Lurker

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    Good tip of trigger construction, that was not in the class but smart, now part of my GOL plunge. Thanks for the thread too ;-)
     
  18. Marshy

    Marshy 285 Killa

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    Yes, at the same plane as your plunge or below. There use to be a video of a member who cut above the plunge and it threw his saw. Smash
     
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  19. Trx250r180

    Trx250r180 Saw polisher

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    I can not ever remember any tree i had to bore cut to fall it unless the core was rotten ,i do bore in when on the ground to prevent pinch though ,if they are a leaning hardwood ,i just coos bay triangle cut them .
     
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  20. beastmaster

    beastmaster Addicted to ArboristSite

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    The bore cut was Traditionally used on leaners, but its use in falling healthy straight up trees is new at lest to me. I took offence when it was forced on me, but grew on me with use. It combined with a 70/90 face cut(to keep the tree on the stump) is a big leap in safety.
    Your trigger should be cut 5 or 6 inches under your plunge cut.
    Another kind of Unorthodox thing is wedging over a tree. A slot is cut with the tip of your bar(plunged)underneath your back cut. You can get pretty creative this way to redirect the direction and lean of a tree.
    I don't use this all the time put it has a time and place. In 20 years it'll probably be the primary cut used in dropping conifers.
     
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