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A picture or 2 where the tank handle bolts to the crankcase from underneath, the carb adapter and a measurement from the top cover mount (on the head) to where it seats in the rear handle. I got 5 1/2" vs 5 1/8". Might be a different top cover to cover the length. What's the part number on the crankcase and top cover? Last, is there a significant gap between the fuel tank and recoil housing or is it quite small, around 1/4"?

Chris B.
 
A picture or 2 where the tank handle bolts to the crankcase from underneath, the carb adapter and a measurement from the top cover mount (on the head) to where it seats in the rear handle. I got 5 1/2" vs 5 1/8". Might be a different top cover to cover the length. What's the part number on the crankcase and top cover? Last, is there a significant gap between the fuel tank and recoil housing or is it quite small, around 1/4"?

Chris B.
5 1/2 on top
270200 I think is case #
No part # on the top cover.
Just over 1/2 in between tank and recoil housingIMG_2195.JPGIMG_2207.JPGIMG_2211.JPGIMG_2215.JPGIMG_2217.JPG
 
Yours is the more typical auto-oiling 275. They all have manual oilers, this crankcase I have is manual oiling only.

If I can find the rectangular air filter cover, I'll set this saw up as a 275+. I have the front cover with decal.

Chris B.
 
I have the 19A all cleaned up waiting for bearings, just realized yesterday that I'm missing the clutch and starter cup assembly, never seen one set up like this. Looking for pictures, information, parts.
We're there any other saws starter assemblies set up on the clutch side?View attachment 810759

Can't really help you with parts but I can provide pictures when I get off work. The 19A owners manual I posted has some illustrations and an IPL.

Chris B.
 
Can't really help you with parts but I can provide pictures when I get off work. The 19A owners manual I posted has some illustrations and an IPL.

Chris B.
I would appreciate anything you could hep with, that the manual is what showed me the missing parts but the drawing is pretty vague on what the parts look like.
Thanks.
 
I'd bet the assembly looks something like the right hand start Remington's, they have a Fairbanks style starter.
 
19A clutch and starter cup. 1 3/16" cup height from the clutch out. You have the clutch ID and OD. It's a Fairbanks morse clutch.

I did some comparison and I have no doubt my model 21 clutch and drum will fit, just a smaller OD. No big deal if they drum matches the clutch. Also, it seems like a 270/275 straight shaft, keyed clutch would fit. For either of these swaps, you have to drill and install a roll pin for the starter cup.

IMG_20200327_8954.jpgIMG_20200327_4489.jpg
 
19A clutch and starter cup. 1 3/16" cup height from the clutch out. You have the clutch ID and OD. It's a Fairbanks morse clutch.

I did some comparison and I have no doubt my model 21 clutch and drum will fit, just a smaller OD. No big deal if they drum matches the clutch. Also, it seems like a 270/275 straight shaft, keyed clutch would fit. For either of these swaps, you have to drill and install a roll pin for the starter cup.
Thanks, that will help a lot, it did mention in the manual the clutch setup could be used on either side of a crankshaft.
View attachment 811300View attachment 811301
 
Got this 275 done today. It was supposed to be an early manual oiler only saw, but I ran into fuel tank fitment issues. Ended up using a 380 crankcase with the rest of my parts. I have 3 clutch covers out for welding and just made a few adjusters.

I still have a 276 auto and a 2nd 275 to redo. Just lacking exhausts, if anybody has any parts.....

Chris B.IMG_20200329_15102.jpgIMG_20200329_11977.jpgIMG_20200329_26219.jpgIMG_20200329_33342.jpg
 
More progress. I swapped the crankshaft on the 276. The crank I originally installed has a keyway 180 degrees off from all the rest. Don't know why. I thought about indexing the flywheel without a key but the points cam uses that same key way. So, another crank and reassemble. New points and condenser.IMG_20200329_8664.jpgIMG_20200329_46379.jpgIMG_20200329_54343.jpg
 
I used some CaseIH rattle can paint on the 276, 935 white. Best off the shelf color match I have ever seen.

The 275 top cover needs to be addressed. It's for a 275 and I didn't paint it.

Edit: correction, the top cover on the 276 is marked as 275.
 
@89HD when you restored the 360, where did you get the grommets that go in the tank for the fuel and oil lines? I've tried looking online and I can't find any Buna N grommets that are the right size.

Let me know, I've just got to spray the clear then I can begin re-assembly. I had to patch the oil tank with some JB weld, then I Redkote'd both the oil and gas tanks.
 
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