Porting my still 460

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whitmore

ArboristSite Member
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Location
oregon
So I have torn down my old 460 and am getting ready to port it. This will be my first port job and even tho I have read threads about woods porting, I am still kind of clueless when it comes to this. I want a good woods saw with a lot of bottom end but is still pretty reliable. I am not sure of the measurements that I am wanting for my exhaust port and intake port. I might want to shave the head down to but don't want to have to mess with my timing. Any tips or help would be much appreciated.

sent from my STIHL 660 using Tapatalk
 
Do you have a degree wheel? To get the most from it you need to change the timing some and a compression increase won't hurt it.
 
Don't have a degree wheel. Is that a spendy item? I wouldn't even have the slightest on how to change the timing to be correct for this mod.

sent from my STIHL 660 using Tapatalk
 
your best bet it sounds like is to do a muffler mod, then pull the cylinder of the saw and remove the base gasket then reinstall cylinder using a quality sealer. this will give you a good increase in compression and power the saw will sound good and run good as well. There is a lot more to porting a saw than just taking a cutter and moving material.
 
I have used this saw cutting timber here in Oregon the past 3 yes. I already have a dual port muffler on it, I went with the old style 046 muffler. If I remove the gasket and use a sealer at the base of the cylinder will I have to adjust the timing at all? I am also planning on putting new rings in it as well. I took a old head off a 460 that had the wrist pin come loose on it and mess up the wall and practiced taking some material out of the exhaust port with it. Just didn't know how much would be enough. I measured after every little bit. I didn't mess with the intake port yet as I don't know what to do there. Thanks for the tips.

sent from my STIHL 660 using Tapatalk
 
By removing the base gasket you will not have to adjust the timing on your saw. If you are really interested in porting and learning get a small sanding roll with some 80 sandpaper rolls and do some polishing on your stock ports they have casting lines from when they were cast you can gently smooth them up. I have been porting my own saws now for two years and I have junked a couple of jugs from getting the port timing to far out but that is how you learn, Im not trying to discourage you by any means but before you start do yourself a favor and do some homework. check out the build thread that Mastermind posted in the chainsaw forum I believe it is under ms461 saw giveaway build thread. There is a lot of good knowledge and info that Randy shared in this thread
 
By removing the base gasket you will not have to adjust the timing on your saw. If you are really interested in porting and learning get a small sanding roll with some 80 sandpaper rolls and do some polishing on your stock ports they have casting lines from when they were cast you can gently smooth them up. I have been porting my own saws now for two years and I have junked a couple of jugs from getting the port timing to far out but that is how you learn, Im not trying to discourage you by any means but before you start do yourself a favor and do some homework. check out the build thread that Mastermind posted in the chainsaw forum I believe it is under ms461 saw giveaway build thread. There is a lot of good knowledge and info that Randy shared in this thread
Thanks Adam. I will check that thread out. Since this saw is one of my daily runners you are probably right about taking it easy at first. I had a friend of a friend port one of my other 460's and I love it. I was just wanting to learn how to do this myself.

sent from my STIHL 660 using Tapatalk
 
Make sure you check the squish before you take the gasket out and assemble it. Do you have calipers to measure the squish with and some soft solder? Not trying to discourage you but don't want you to put it together and have the piston smash the squish band when it gets hot. You need .020" or a little more on the squish.
 
Yes I do have calipers and some solder. I will make sure I check that out before running it, great tip. Thanks. This is all very new to me so any advice is great.

sent from my STIHL 660 using Tapatalk
 
By removing the base gasket you will not have to adjust the timing on your saw. If you are really interested in porting and learning get a small sanding roll with some 80 sandpaper rolls and do some polishing on your stock ports they have casting lines from when they were cast you can gently smooth them up. I have been porting my own saws now for two years and I have junked a couple of jugs from getting the port timing to far out but that is how you learn, Im not trying to discourage you by any means but before you start do yourself a favor and do some homework. check out the build thread that Mastermind posted in the chainsaw forum I believe it is under ms461 saw giveaway build thread. There is a lot of good knowledge and info that Randy shared in this thread
Could I also remove the base gasket on my 660 and get the same result? What does the squish have to be on a 660?

sent from my STIHL 660 using Tapatalk
 
I've never seen a 660 that you could remove the base gasket on. The squish usually ends up too tight.
 
The only true way to tell is to measure it. Ive gotten by with it on a few 660s but they were after market big bore cylinder kits. The best way to do it is to have someone cut the squish band and the base surface so that way you can still run the base gasket. Just removing the gasket is a cheap way to achieve more compression. when I first started messing with saws this is how I done it, now with the help of a few people from this sight I cut a majority of mine on my lathe. Dont be afraid to ask some of these guys questions if you have any, You might try posting on the chainsaw thread as it gets more looking at
 
for low end torque ex 100.5- 101, intake 80. Stock ex is 99 to 99.5 depending on what day the casting was make and who pouring the metal. No gasket will bring to you 100 roughly. What's your squish? I know Randy "mastermind" will do squish cuts reasonably. I think you have to send him the case so the final numbers can be verified. I could do the same but I don't want to snag business from Randy, he has been essential to my porting knowledge and saw shop set up. Send it to him, he is the real deal, honest, a meticulous craftman, and a generous guy.
 
I actually did end up sending it to randy. Just waiting for its return now. Thanks for the info.

sent from my Stihl 660 using tapatalk pro
 
for low end torque ex 100.5- 101, intake 80. Stock ex is 99 to 99.5 depending on what day the casting was make and who pouring the metal. No gasket will bring to you 100 roughly. What's your squish? I know Randy "mastermind" will do squish cuts reasonably. I think you have to send him the case so the final numbers can be verified. I could do the same but I don't want to snag business from Randy, he has been essential to my porting knowledge and saw shop set up. Send it to him, he is the real deal, honest, a meticulous craftman, and a generous guy.
Very old post I know, And very green greenhorn on this site, and in computer world in general, but can anyone point me in the direction of port work on a 460? How do you msg someone? Lol thanks in advance
 
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