Poulan 2000 "Woodsman" carb issue

[p575]

My neighbor asked me to look at this saw for him, he couldn't get it to start. I narrowed down the problem to fuel not getting to the carb. Replaced the fuel line and still no fuel. Started tearing into the carb (Walbro WT20) and found that it wouldn't accept fuel coming in. I attached a hose to the fuel inlet and tried to blow into it, it wouldn't let air in at all. Got a carb kit and replaced the diaphragm, the spring/needle valve, etc... that goes on that side, and the gasket/membrane part that goes on the other side.
Now, not only will it accept fuel, it seems to be taking in way too much, pull the rope 5-10 times and raw fuel starts to come out of the exhaust. I did get it to start and run at WOT a few times, but it wouldn't run more than 10 seconds or so. The original fuel line was clear, and it didn't seem to have a solid stream of fuel in it, it had tons of bubbles leading my to believe there may have been a crack in it that was pulling in air, so I replaced the entire fuel line with a black one, still won't run.
I know this isn't a great saw, it's one of the most user unfriendly ones I've ever seen, but if theres anything else I should try before I give it back let me know. On a side note, it's a horizontal cylinder, that seems to have the carb mounted on the crankcase side of the cylinder, pretty unique setup...
Thanks for any help.

 

[dougand3]

Needle lever set too high? Needle seat bad? Reed valve too open? Horizontal cyl is pretty common is older saws. The 2000 is from the 1980s.

 

[knockbill]

+1,,, re check lever,, I have it set .062 on my 2300CVA,(Walbro site has specs) starts on first pull, and runs hard at full throttle,,, nice little saw in my opinion, set up properly... The long fuel line can get kinked as it goes thru the handle bracket and into the tank if its too long,,, I found that to be the reason it wasn't getting fuel when I first got it...

 

[Jasonrkba]

Needle is not correct most likely. The duckbill is probably goo by now also. Make sure it has the correct plug in it.

 

[p575]

I'm not a carb expert. Is the duckbill the little piece that is moved by the diaphragm? I didn't realize it would need an adjustment, but that makes sense if its opening the needle valve too much. What's the reference to the "correct plug"?
Thanks again.

 

[dougand3]

No duckbill in the carb. The metering diaphragm has a button that pushes on the lever. Duckbill - 1 in the fuel cap to vent tank, 1 in the oiler check valve behind the clutch - that goes bad and really tedious to fix. That part is NLA. Plug is CJ7Y or BPM7A.

 

[p575]

Update:
I found a new replacement carb for $12 and went with that, I don't know as much about rebuilding as I should. It's a no name replica. I took the choke butterfly/shaft off as this saw has a different setup, and it looks like it will fit. Which of the two little brass nipples accepts the fuel line? The old carb didn't have one on the left where this one has the bent elbow. Which of the two of these should get the fuel line? What should go on the other one?

Thanks again for any help.

 

[dougand3]

The straight nipple is the fuel line. Plug the bent purge return nipple.