• Please be aware that we have recently gotten a wave of users that, when researched, are found to be from Nigeria. They are trying to sell products and asking to be paid through Zelle or Venmo leaving users with no recourse if they don't ship the product. If you suspect this activity please contact admin and we will research their information to verify their location.

ArboristSite.com Sponsors
Peak Industries


Poulan 2150 Wont Start

Old2stroke

Old2stroke

Never too many toys
Joined
Jan 24, 2016
Messages
586
Age
78
Location
Ottawa, Canada
Not a reed valve engine. Unfortunately these saws have a non-plated cylinder and a chrome plated piston which means any gouges in the cylinder cannot be recovered. A new P&C combo is available on ebay for a low price and is a good upgrade as it is a chrome plated cylinder and non-plated piston. Will also boost the engine up to 42cc. Do this upgrade, open up the muffler and you will have a good light weight saw with decent power and long lifetime. Learn to tune the saw by the sound of the exhaust properly and you will avoid another lean-run self destruction. Good luck, could be an interesting learning project.

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Cylinder-Pi...417634?hash=item1a58a5e862:g:hZgAAOSwFdpbTvIQ
 
Michael Kent

Michael Kent

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Apr 9, 2019
Messages
44
Age
52
Location
Indiana
You aren't in the neighborhood of Monroe county perchance are you? If so, you could bring it by the shop and I'll give you my opinion.
Not a reed valve engine. Unfortunately these saws have a non-plated cylinder and a chrome plated piston which means any gouges in the cylinder cannot be recovered. A new P&C combo is available on ebay for a low price and is a good upgrade as it is a chrome plated cylinder and non-plated piston. Will also boost the engine up to 42cc. Do this upgrade, open up the muffler and you will have a good light weight saw with decent power and long lifetime. Learn to tune the saw by the sound of the exhaust properly and you will avoid another lean-run self destruction. Good luck, could be an interesting learning project.

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Cylinder-Pi...417634?hash=item1a58a5e862:g:hZgAAOSwFdpbTvIQ
Thanks for the reply, so you are saying this style 2 stroker uses a similar method for gas delivery as say RC Model Airplanes? I’m always intetested in learning new things. Is it possible for my condition with the P&C combo, that this could cause a lack of fuel delivery to the cylinder? Thanks for all your help and the link.
Very reasonable price. What do you mean by “open up the muffler?” Are you talking of reducing the exhaust back pressure?
Thanks

Mike
 
Michael Kent

Michael Kent

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Apr 9, 2019
Messages
44
Age
52
Location
Indiana
You aren't in the neighborhood of Monroe county perchance are you? If so, you could bring it by the shop and I'll give you my opinion.
Thanks for your kind offer, however I’m in NW Indiana. I think I’m going to go with a P&C combo kit from ebay per anothers suggestion.
If you haven’t been following my thread, yes I have a badly scored Piston and Rings, photo posted. Have a great day my friend

Mike
 
Michael Kent

Michael Kent

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Apr 9, 2019
Messages
44
Age
52
Location
Indiana
Thanks for the reply, so you are saying this style 2 stroker uses a similar method for gas delivery as say RC Model Airplanes? I’m always intetested in learning new things. Is it possible for my condition with the P&C combo, that this could cause a lack of fuel delivery to the cylinder? Thanks for all your help and the link.
Very reasonable price. What do you mean by “open up the muffler?” Are you talking of reducing the exhaust back pressure?
Thanks

Mike
Is there a specific breakin proceedure when I get this kit? Also what do you think of fully synthetic 2 cycle oil like found in link below?
Keep in mind I only use this saw a couple hours at most each year.

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-prod...nator-synthetic-2-stroke-racing-oil/?code=TDR
 
Michael Kent

Michael Kent

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Apr 9, 2019
Messages
44
Age
52
Location
Indiana
For such little use, I would just get the premixed cans. Sold in quarts or gallons at 40:1 or 50:1
Yes, I can get the Amsoil 2 cycle product “fully synthetic” locally for $12 per quart. Just not sure if the rings will break in and seat with a synthetic 2 cycle oil? I know with 4 cycle engines you should not use synthetic oil for break in. However this is a 2 stroke engine with the oil in the gas. I was told that if one wishes they can use this type of synthetic 2 cycle oil at a leaner mix being it has much better lubrication properties, and is less prone to foul plug or build up carbon deposits. I’de be interested in knowing others opionons on this type of oil being used in place of standard 2 cycle oil before using.
Thanks for your reply!

Mike
 
brandonstc6

brandonstc6

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Sep 28, 2015
Messages
3,218
Age
25
Location
Mississippi
I’ve sold used engines from these for $25 shipped before. I’m out at this time but you should be able to find another one.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Michael Kent

Michael Kent

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Apr 9, 2019
Messages
44
Age
52
Location
Indiana
I’ve sold used engines from these for $25 shipped before. I’m out at this time but you should be able to find another one.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sounds like a great price, however I like to learn and get my hands dirty once in awhile. New Piston, rings, cylinder kit on order per another gentleman’s suggestion in post in this thread. $23.49 total free shipping,
✌
 
GeorgiaVol

GeorgiaVol

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Jan 20, 2011
Messages
1,814
Age
41
Location
Harris Co Georgia
Yes, I can get the Amsoil 2 cycle product “fully synthetic” locally for $12 per quart. Just not sure if the rings will break in and seat with a synthetic 2 cycle oil? I know with 4 cycle engines you should not use synthetic oil for break in. However this is a 2 stroke engine with the oil in the gas. I was told that if one wishes they can use this type of synthetic 2 cycle oil at a leaner mix being it has much better lubrication properties, and is less prone to foul plug or build up carbon deposits. I’de be interested in knowing others opionons on this type of oil being used in place of standard 2 cycle oil before using.
Thanks for your reply!

Mike
I've never "broken in" a 2 cycle. Just get a 40:1 fuel mix, tune it in, and let'er rip tater chip.
Just retune after a couple tanks.
 
Old2stroke

Old2stroke

Never too many toys
Joined
Jan 24, 2016
Messages
586
Age
78
Location
Ottawa, Canada
These are simple piston port engines and the air to fuel mix is controlled by the adjustment of the "L" and "H" screws on the carb. The "L" screw set the mixture for idle and transfer to high speed conditions, there is also a throttle stop screw for setting the idle speed. The "H" screw set the mixture for full throttle high speed operation and it is the setting of this one that is critical to get right, too rich and the engine will blubber around and not make much power, too lean and the engine will overheat, the piston will expand too much, rub itself to death against the cylinder and ultimately seize. Since the new cylinder will be chrome plated, there is no "seating-in" process for the rings and piston. Lots of different theories here on the best way to treat a new saw, however the bottom end of your saw is not new so no special treatment is needed. Oil mix ratios is a real can of worms, many will swear that 50:1 with synthetic oil is a safe mix and the engine will last forever as long as the air-fuel mix is right. I personally run all my saws, blowers and trimmers on 30:1. With a good oil, I get no excessive carbon build up or plug fouling and it gives me a little more peace of mind about lifetime of bearings and cylinders. Opening up the muffler is just a matter of making more holes or slots in it to make it more free flowing.
 
Michael Kent

Michael Kent

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Apr 9, 2019
Messages
44
Age
52
Location
Indiana
These are simple piston port engines and the air to fuel mix is controlled by the adjustment of the "L" and "H" screws on the carb. The "L" screw set the mixture for idle and transfer to high speed conditions, there is also a throttle stop screw for setting the idle speed. The "H" screw set the mixture for full throttle high speed operation and it is the setting of this one that is critical to get right, too rich and the engine will blubber around and not make much power, too lean and the engine will overheat, the piston will expand too much, rub itself to death against the cylinder and ultimately seize. Since the new cylinder will be chrome plated, there is no "seating-in" process for the rings and piston. Lots of different theories here on the best way to treat a new saw, however the bottom end of your saw is not new so no special treatment is needed. Oil mix ratios is a real can of worms, many will swear that 50:1 with synthetic oil is a safe mix and the engine will last forever as long as the air-fuel mix is right. I personally run all my saws, blowers and trimmers on 30:1. With a good oil, I get no excessive carbon build up or plug fouling and it gives me a little more peace of mind about lifetime of bearings and cylinders. Opening up the muffler is just a matter of making more holes or slots in it to make it more free flowing.
Thanks for all the information, you’ve been a great help. Have a nice week my friend!

Mike
 
Top