Poulan 2300 AV

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Klikmaus

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About a month ago I was on a foam roof job in Austin and homeowner was in process of cleaning out his garage & noticed a chainsaw case in our jobsite dumpster. It looked to be the proper size to fit a saw I've been working on for a friend that didn't have a case for it, so I did a dumpster dive to retrieve it. I assumed the case was empty however it had an old 16:1 Poulan 2300 av in it.
I asked the client about it, he had bought it new many years ago to trim a few trees around the property when he bought the house. According to him, the saw has seen less than an hour of use before being stored away for over 15 years. From the appearance of the saw, the story holds up. Sparkplug looks rather fresh, case is unmarried, chain still sharp & even the decals are in good shape.

I haven't got it cranked over yet--- the pull rope broke on the third pull. After replacing the cord this morning & cleaned the carb... the fuel tank cracked putting it back together. Yay.
I did a JB Weld patch on the cracked fuel tank which is still in its curing process.

I've read that it's perfectly fine to run 40:1 mix in the older 16:1 mix motors as more modern 2-stroke oil blends lubricate better than what was available ten plus years ago.
Anyone know what the best settings on the low/high mix screws to start tuning are with the Walbro carb for running the 40:1 mix? With the carb being tuned for the leaner 16:1 mix the low definitely would need to be turned closer to the seated position right?
 
Thanx for the info.

I run the premix cans from a local feed store in all my 2-stroke tools. They're convenient, high-octane & ethanol-free... They only come in 50:1 and 40:1 so I'll have to add a bit of oil to a pre measured open can & re label it.

Does anyone by chance know what the actual displacement of the 2300 AV is?
 


That there just saved a LOT of headache! In particular, that data sheet states 40:1 mix. Once the fuel tank repair has time to cure I'll start tuning from factory settings.
When I had the carb torn down earlier, I noticed that the reed valve sheet was a clear plastic material rather than the opaque felt-like material used nowadays. Are there any pros/cons with this carb reed?
 
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