Poulan S25DA ignition question

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yeah, I know what you mean about questioning yourself.

I went out cutting today.

Had my SXL 925 among others. First cut & both bar nuts came loose (one of them fell off)

Im in a bar buried cut in white oak & all of a sudden, I'm like WTF

Last night, I got ll the saws ready, sharpened chains & etc.

Well, I forgt to fully tighten the bar nuts.

I was not wearing my chaps (I usually do) had on a pair of insulated bibs.

I am very lucky that I did not throw the chain.

Of couse I always carry a spare set of bar nuts. Well, at least I used to. I went through my gear that I always take out with me & tried to get rid of stuff that I never need/use. Decided to take the bar nuts out of the bag. "Ive had these for years & never used them."

First time out without them and.....................

Yes it is. I was sure they were but I was beginning to question myself.
 
I'm back again guys. Well today I put in a carb repair kit, new fuel line and fuel filter (thanks Calvin). I checked to make sure the key was still in the flywheel too. It still runs like crap wfo. I don't know what to try next. I'm ready to throw a match at this thing. Got any ideas?
 
hmmmm if it is not fuel related then it can be something else to bad im here in carolina and you in wisconsin i be glad to fix it does your saw use pts and condenser ?

or is it electronic ignition ?

check to make sure the muffler screen is clean from debree and all

cause a clogged screen can cause back pressure and cause the saw not to run right

make sure that screen is clean let me know what you find out
thanks
calvin
 
It has points and condenser. I'll check the screen on the muffler. Could it be lack of compression? Meaning piston and or rings. Had a 2 stroke snowmobile that did this once.
 
It has points and condenser. I'll check the screen on the muffler. Could it be lack of compression? Meaning piston and or rings. Had a 2 stroke snowmobile that did this once.

check the points and condenser its possible also check to see if the spark is blue or orange if it is orange we have a ignition issue with either the condenser breaking down or the pts burned

you wont need a coil cause the pts and the condenser is what sends the current to the coil itself so the coil is not the problem unless the wires came loose

but with care check the spark with a spark tester to see what color the spark is that tells alot blue = good spark orange = poor spark

if the spark plug has not been changed may be a good idea to change it also its been known that spark plugs be all that is wrong with units


the compression i dont know that may or may not be whats wrong all you need to do is do a compression test on it twice once when it is cold and another when it warms up
to check the difference in the compression to see if the cylinder and the rings are holding up


if you find that the pts and condenser is the issue i have them in stock for that model saw


we will get it running good it may just take some time in troubleshooting the system
 
Check the reed under the carb, looks like a metal flap, they sometimes get trash stuck in them and that will make the saw run poorly.
 
It has points and condenser. I'll check the screen on the muffler. Could it be lack of compression? Meaning piston and or rings. Had a 2 stroke snowmobile that did this once.



Yes, pull a compression test, I have had some that seem ok, start and idle good but run like crap on top end because of low compression. Got a 306A right now like that.

If compression is good, check the reed like Dadatwins said.
 
I did check the compression but with a inexpensive gauge. It read about 30lb cold which is low. So I checked this Allis Chalmers 75 (same saw)that I have to see if the gauge was reading low. That read the same, 30lb. That saw runs great. So I'm not sure what to think.
 
Ok, I checked the spark. It was blue and appeared to have plenty of spark. All I did was ground the plug and pull it over. It that the right way or do I need a tester that I can run the saw wfo and look at it? The muffler screen is not plugged and there is no junk in the reed valve. What next fellas?
 
Ok, I checked the spark. It was blue and appeared to have plenty of spark. All I did was ground the plug and pull it over. It that the right way or do I need a tester that I can run the saw wfo and look at it? The muffler screen is not plugged and there is no junk in the reed valve. What next fellas?

ganz did good on the spark test if it is blue then we have no trouble there

i hate to say it we need to do a compression test on this saw i would take it to auto zone with you ask them to do a compression test on it they should do it for free

they have some high tech tools there
 
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While you had the muffler off, did you look at the piston and see if there was any damage, scratches ect. 30lbs is to low for that saw to even start, your gauge is bad or it was not seated properly.
 
I'll do that and check back with you. A stihl dealer should have the right stuff too right? There is one near my house but no autozone.
 
Yes I looked at the piston and cylinder and they looked ok to me as far as I could see. I'll get the compression checked with a good gauge. How big of job is it to put a piston and rings in it?
 
I'll do that and check back with you. A stihl dealer should have the right stuff too right? There is one near my house but no autozone.

yes they suppose to have but make sure they dont charge a bench fee

that piston and rings is NLA by poulan

but the best thing is i have 3 in stock
 
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