Nik's Poulan Thread

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The 3700 intake manifolds tend to loosen up at the cylinder too, good to check with the carb removed.

Make sure both bolts are tight, as the impulse passage & gasket seal down there does the pulsing of the pump diaphragm that pulls the gas up, not to mention it makes an air leak.

They're a b!tch to get to w/0 pulling the cylinder. A 1/4" combo wrench put over the shank of a 5/16" socket bit from a cordless drill set works.
 
The 3700 intake manifolds tend to loosen up at the cylinder too, good to check with the carb removed.

Make sure both bolts are tight, as the impulse passage & gasket seal down there does the pulsing of the pump diaphragm that pulls the gas up, not to mention it makes an air leak.

They're a b!tch to get to w/0 pulling the cylinder. A 1/4" combo wrench put over the shank of a 5/16" socket bit from a cordless drill set works.

Got a pic? I was looking for an impulse but didnt see anything on the carb or tank.
 
The 3700 intake manifolds tend to loosen up at the cylinder too, good to check with the carb removed.

Make sure both bolts are tight, as the impulse passage & gasket seal down there does the pulsing of the pump diaphragm that pulls the gas up, not to mention it makes an air leak.

They're a b!tch to get to w/0 pulling the cylinder. A 1/4" combo wrench put over the shank of a 5/16" socket bit from a cordless drill set works.

Seems I used a long 1/4" extension on a universal 5/16" socket and made it easy to get off. The ***** was getting the gasket to stay in place while putting it back on. I think I posted a picture once on how to make the new gasket and make the bottom of it long enough to set on the case so it will stay in place while sliding the intake down.
 
When you get a new to you saw in and someone just ran new no name yellow lines. What do you do. Pull them all. ;)

Bought for parts saw but is a runner. Just wanted parts to back up my favorite 3 cube size trim saw. Chrome bore 3.3 54cc.
So it will be gone through and set as back up.

Didnt like what I saw inside muffler, heat shield deformed blockage and wrong bolt with many washers.

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Heat shield definitely needs replacing. I'd run the fuel lines til I'd have trouble from them. Impulse line new also?

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Yep all was new. I dont trust them. Fit was slick and loose but just tight enough.

Hoping I have the same heat shield in the bins already. Yep old one will get tossed.
 
Not a chainsaw but a nice Poulan GLT 770 trimmer. made in Japan as far as I can tell ECHO??
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Just three saws.

Poulan 8500 28" bar, Pro MAC 700 20 and 24" bar and an XL-76 20" bar. got a good deal on two 24" D009 mount Forester bars (Oregon Power Match clones) and am modifying the mount to duplicate a D096 mount. The adjuster holes have been enlarged to let bar oil in but I still need to get the oiler holes drilled out for some others they will go on..
Interesting to note that the steel in the Forester bars is harder than the steel on the Oregon Power Match bars.

I'm not sure if the HDA 49 carb was the one with troubles or not. I know there was one some guys had an issue with at times.
I have 49's on both the 285 and the 2800 and they both idle fine.

I'm still having issues with the carb on the 8500 so I swapped it out with the HS-168 that's on my 5200. It's not supposed to be on the 5200 so I suppose it was replaced at one point with the 168. Same as the HS-176 on the larger saws but no governor.
I think maybe my block off on the governor didn't work out. I'll fiddle around with it when I get back.

Did you use an aftermarket seal on the 3000 or a Poulan replacement?


I used the OEM ones. I did not look up an aftermarket one, but I could mic them for you. Probably worth having options as more and more is phased out.

Good GTG?
 
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