Nik's Poulan Thread

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Mine don't, guy gave me two that had been buried back in his barn. Took both of the best parts and made one. Funny thing, I never looked at the piston, not once, even had it running. Just noticed it would make a clank noise now and then. Got like a cat and started digging into to it. Found the piston and cylinder scored and the rod bearings on the crank shot. The noise was the piston skirt was hit the crank lobe now and then. Even shot video of it running. Posted it on YouTube.

Steve
 
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did some cutting today


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Best approach to replacing the Oil Tank Gasket on a 306a? Never tore one down before, not sure which side to attack it from. I'm not near it either right now so I don't have a reference. Just trying to prepare for the days ahead. Will the fuel tank and handle assembly have to be removed?
 
Best approach to replacing the Oil Tank Gasket on a 306a? Never tore one down before, not sure which side to attack it from. I'm not near it either right now so I don't have a reference. Just trying to prepare for the days ahead. Will the fuel tank and handle assembly have to be removed?

Easy two beer job! Get the IPL and pull the starter cover, clutch cover, bar, clutch, & unbolt the oil tank assembly. It slips over the crankcase snout end.

There is one 7/16” hex head bolt on the FW side that is very tight to the case edges & may require you to grind a socket tip end thinner, been a few years.

Search for old thread “Poulan 306a oil tank” by poster roncoinc , a tutorial that had great pictures...at least it did before the hack.

It’s not necessary to pull the fuel tank/handle carb off, but I would remove it just to replace your rotted out foam body seal while doing your #19009 oil tank gasket. Unfiltered air bypasses the the filter & goes into the carb box when the #19006 dust seal degrades.

Don’t have to pull the oil pump assembly apart either, but the brass gears & gear pocket probably needs cleaned out well & regreased.
Note that little grease seal on the OP cover that needs worked over a step in the crankshaft, when you put the tank assembly back on.

EDIT: There is a single bolt on the FW side that needs pulled, but you don’t need to pull starter or FW to get to it. Just pull the starter cover.

Remember to clean off & use blue loctite on those oil pump cover bolts & mounting bolt when reinstalling!

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Best approach to replacing the Oil Tank Gasket on a 306a? Never tore one down before, not sure which side to attack it from. I'm not near it either right now so I don't have a reference. Just trying to prepare for the days ahead. Will the fuel tank and handle assembly have to be removed?
^ ^ What HotShot said.

+1 on:
  1. Remove the top half and replace the foam gasket. I used a heavy bead of Permatex #2 for this application on my 245 rebuild.
  2. Open up the oil pump gears, clean and lube them. Take note of the parts orientation as you take it apart. Grease can be any decent lithium grease. I used Green Grease because it's what I had on the shelf.


These 306/245 saws are marvels of engineering. The fact that they were able to design these 3D jigsaw puzzles without the aid of computers, let alone modern 3D design software, AND THAT THEY RUN LIKE THEY DO amazes me. I bet there was a ton of time spent in the wood shop working up the design.
 
Never saw them, are you saying that there were two saws (5400 & 6900) that were recently sold on eBay? Or sold here on the Tradin’ Post?

Prices were fair, given that top end parts are hard to find & $$$

Nope not on ebay or here. Most folks are not after every nickle they can soak from folks.
Online on all these FS sites. So many new places folks sell at I cant even keep up anymore.

The 5400 was $150
Te 6900 was $200

This was like last week if I remember right. So prob long gone. Couple of the CR members were heading out for them.

Nobody here that has let me know what they were looking for was close.
 
Nope not on ebay or here.

Nobody here that has let me know what they were looking for was close.

Yep, you’re definitely the chainsaw broker & enabler, lol! There’s some real saw nuts here on AS, so I don’t doubt you could move them along quickly...

Have you noticed that pricing on new & NOS Poulan parts is getting out of control?

I was looking at some maintenance type oiler parts on EBay yesterday, and Randy’s engine repair had the little red plastic pump end caps #530023356 listed at $15 each, but you can get them for $1.09 at Jacks. WTF? Shipping is minimal when you combine it all with a big parts order.
 
Yep, you’re definitely the chainsaw broker & enabler, lol! There’s some real saw nuts here on AS, so I don’t doubt you could move them along quickly...

Have you noticed that pricing on new & NOS Poulan parts is getting out of control?

I was looking at some maintenance type oiler parts on EBay yesterday, and Randy’s engine repair had the little red plastic pump end caps #530023356 listed at $15 each, but you can get them for $1.09 at Jacks. WTF? Shipping is minimal when you combine it all with a big parts order.

Got close to 35,000 members on my CRG and over 4,000 on my CRS so lot of saw nuts usually grab stuff first. Before I get to even post about it here.

randys has always been stupid priced like some other folks are IMHO.

Least over on my site if we know of a good deal. We make sure everyone gets what they need first and then buy the rest up to share with others for the good price.
We did this on the NLA poulan air filters for like $8 a piece, for 3000 etc. We made sure folks in need got them.
Then bought any remaining so they didnt get flipped at stupid double triple prices.
 

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