Poulan thread

Believe I need some clarification. Ring pins are .008, correct? Not sure what u are saying re “ setting the .008 in the bore”. Guess I’m getting stuck.

 

Checked squish on my 3000 today. The solder I had measured in at .034".

Checking through the plug hole some of the areas I checked would not even mash the solder, others I would end up measuring .032" so it slightly smashed it.

I pulled the cylinder, cleaned off all the old base gasket material. cleaned the piston and cylinder. Put 4 strips of solder on the piston held with grease in the 12, 3, 6, 9 positions, put the cylinder on and bolted it down and came up with the following numbers.

12 o clock: .020"
3 o clock: .016"
6 o clock: .019"
9 o clock: .015"

Seems like alot of variance. First time I have checked squish on a saw. Does that sound right? I did some reading and some say .015 is way to tight, others say with 50cc its fine. Opinions?

 

Two of your solder points should be in line with the wrist pin and out at the very edge of the piston. That is where the squish will be its tightest.
My personal opinion is .015 is a little tight. I would not want to run a saw that tight myself even at 50cc.

 

Thank you for the reply, my 3 and 9 solder areas where on the wrist pin ends and I did have the solder to the edge, I will see about making a gasket with a soda can and recheck. Thank you!

 

You could probably get away with a brown paper bag and some yamabond on both sides.
The tightest squish I have run on a saw was 018" and that was on a Poulan 335. I did not have any issues with it.
In general I try and shoot for around .020" and as the bore gets bigger so does the squish.

 

I will see if I have one in the cabinet and measure it. Then make a gasket and check after to see if it will be good. Thank you.

 

It's easy to install the impulse line by just pulling the carb.

 

It's been a while since I replaced mine, went with a silicone type hose on mine when I did it so it would out last the hose material that was out at the time. My vent line still has the sintered brass filter plug in it. Doubt you can still buy that plug.

Steve Sidwell

 

I should have said “plus” 0.008”, not minus...

What I’m saying for the modified method is to set the end gaps to 0.008” in the cylinder as usual. Then cut the backs of the rings to clear the ring pin. There are several pics of these rings on the internet, for an example, if you’re a visual type person. Homelite ring 54512 comes to mind.

Domestic made pins for rings are normally 1/16” round hardened bearing stock. Not sure what Stihl & Husky uses, prob 1.5mm stock.

I’d go ahead & simply grind the end gaps to 0.070”, sorry to muddy up the water...

 

That's what I did. Pretty much lined straight up with the hole at the bottom where the wires go through.

 

I used the small clear line for the impulse. I know I've seen where others suggested the Echo black line.

And there's a bigger hole with a plug in it straight behind the the impulse tube on the carb if I ever need to go back with a larger o.d. line. But the small line let me run it through the bottom hole, and hook it to the carb before bolting down and route it around inside the airbox. Also, that's what I had on hand.

I'm hoping I have all those vent line pieces on the 3800 parts saw, that I'm stealing the top end off of for the 3400.
Will have to take a look tomorrow.

Need to round up some 1/8" i.d. fuel line that's thicker on the outside to fit the hole in the tank.

 

For the tank vent or fuel supply, on the fuel line you are talking about? If they had the black Echo fuel line back when I done my impulse line, I would have ran that.

Steve Sidwell

 

On the impulse line I ran the clear 1/8x3/16.

But for the tank line I need 3mm x 5 or 6mm to seal off the hole in the tank.
I have some tygon somewhere around here...

And not sure on the vent line. Will need to look at that pronged piece and other part to see if it fills up the hole.

 

You will need the barbed fitting for the vent line. You put the barbed fitting in the line and pull it through the tank. The barbed fitting will seal up the tank when you pull the fitting almost through. Then install duck valve on the barbed half still sticking out inside the tank.

Steve Sidwell

 

Converted a 266 carburetor to the bonus 4200 bow saw and its gonna need seals, suprising right? Haha
But man that muffler sounds/looks good, everyone must think so too because I had to take it off to empty out the decon and nesting material that was in it , former resident liked it.

 

Unless you have tiny hands you better put the duckbill valve on the barbed fitting before you pull it through the tank.

 

If you don’t have them already, Timken seal #471466 at $16 a pair delivered to your door from fleabay. 530019075 is the Poulan number.

 

Somebody was asking for this. I had saved these pics for so folks could see where they go on this style.


1st pic black was the tank vent with duckbill inside tank.

2nd pic black is impulse line that goes to top of carb and then back of crankcase or cylinder depending on series.

3rd pic impulse line at back of cc or cyl.

Hope it helps whoever was asking.

 

Is this what your talking about? I have this pic saved. Cant recall where or who posted this one.

 

That's what I'm talking about. Pictures means a thousand words.

Steve Sidwell