PowerSharp!!!!

[wde_1978]

I envy You on those prices!

Then again I am glad for You!

I have yet to try my PowerSharp kit, I am saving it for a "out-of-the-box" comparison with a regular chain - I am even considering to buy a Rapid Duro chain for a triple comparison.

The PowerSharp bars are nothing special, they are a regular narrow nose Oregon with an additional hole, I already converted my 3 regular bars to PowerSharp bars.
But I sure would like spare "PS52" chain & stone kits for 10$ each - I pay at least twice as much for a regular 52DL chain.
Even if I were to source a deal like You did it most likely wouldn't pay off purchasing considering the over inflated shipping costs from the US to Europe.

Good deal, YOU SUCK !

 

[Philbert]

I also see clearance items on eBay sometimes. Other times, it is not that great of a deal compared to retail. But you might keep your eyes open for them on one of the European eBay sites. Put it on your 'watch' list and you may get notified when stuff gets posted.

The PowerSharp bars are nothing special, they are a regular narrow nose Oregon with an additional hole, I already converted my 3 regular bars to PowerSharp bars.

The reason that they sell the special bars with the Powersharp starter kit is to make sure that the holes are properly aligned. The whole system is dependent on the exact geometry of the bar nose/radius; the Powersharp cutters; the diamond dressing link; and the grinding stone when they come together. Some people have trouble drilling accurate holes in guide bars, even with a drill press. If the hole is not centered, you could have problems each time you flip your bar. But it you can do it accurately. . . . .

Philbert

 

[wde_1978]

I also see clearance items on eBay sometimes. Other times, it is not that great of a deal compared to retail. But you might keep your eyes open for them on one of the European eBay sites. Put it on your 'watch' list and you may get notified when stuff gets posted.

I'm kinda new to eBay, will have to look into making a watch list - thanks for the tip.

The reason that they sell the special bars with the Powersharp starter kit is to make sure that the holes are properly aligned. The whole system is dependent on the geometry of the bar nose/radius; the Powersharp cutters; the diamond dressing link; and the grinding stone when they come together. Some people have drilling accurate holes in guide bars, even with a drill press. If the hole is not centered, you could have problems each time you flip your bar. But it you can do it accurately. . . . .

Philbert

I got them aligned quite nicely, I bolted the PS bar to a non-PS bar using the existing holes and then drilled the additional hole into the non-PS bar by using the PS bar for centering the drill.

As said, I have yet to give the PS-kit a try and I drilled the non-PS bars just to make them universal beforehand.

 

[Philbert]

Storm Cleanup Bump

Had some 60 - 80 mph winds blow through here the other day; helping some neighbors clean up trees, large limbs, etc. I like using the battery and electric saws in the city: quieter - more of a stealth cleanup than a noise fest, bouncing off neighbors' houses; easy to stop/start between clearing tasks; etc. Most of my battery and corded electric saws have PowerSharp chain: gotta love those piles of chips!


(Silver maple, PowerSharp chain, 40V saw, crosscutting - not noodling!)

Philbert

 

[HarleyT]

Yeah. Powersharp Eng sent me a couple to test out, and I thought they were great! Unfortunately they both were Poulan mounts, so I don't get to use them much....

 

[Philbert]

Yeah. Powersharp Eng sent me a couple to test out, and I thought they were great! Unfortunately they both were Poulan mounts, so I don't get to use them much....

Those will fit a number of models, including a number of Craftsman saws, etc. You could list them in the Trading Post, or offer them in one of the Xmas giving threads if you are not really using them.

Philbert

 

[HarleyT]

Those will fit a number of models, including a number of Craftsman saws, etc. You could list them in the Trading Post, or offer them in one of the Xmas giving threads if you are not really using them.

Philbert

Yeah, they will work on little Echos, Shindaiwas and many more. I use them when I test out saws that I happen to be working on.

 

[Wagnerwerks]

If you need anyone to test one out on a little shinney, just let me know

 

[HarleyT]

Just to keep things going, here is a pic of the old Powersharp, from another thread here...

 

[Philbert]

. . . here is a pic of the old Powersharp . . .

(illustration from woodmagazine.com "Block Plane Basics")

The close-up photos emphasize how the bevel on PowerSharp chain is on the top of the cutter, instead of the bottom, as on conventional chain. This really confuses some guys.

I try to compare that with different types of wood working planes, that have the bevel facing up or down on their blades ('plane irons'), but still cut due to the resultant cutting angle. Just like with planes, where the bevel orientation has to match the plane that it is used on, the bevel on saw chain has to match the sharpening system that is used - no switching!

Philbert

 

[PowerSharp Eng]

Went through some boxes of antique chains and found a unique chain for this thread.

Here is a version of a top sharpening chain on a very large scale. Pictured with the large top sharpened chain is today's Powersharp (the smallest chain pictured) and 11BC chain which is used on timber harvesting machines.

The average hole center to hole center distance of the antique chain .90" (the 11 BC chain is .75").

There was no brand on the large top sharpened chain.






Today's Powersharp cutter pictured just above the antique chain. Gives you a sense of the size of this old chain.

 

[HarleyT]

On the middle chain. Why did the put the drive links in different directions?

 

[HarleyT]

Or was that one a warranty return?

 

[Philbert]

. . . found a unique chain for this thread.

That is one scary looking chain!

Why did the put the drive links in different directions?

Good observation. Looks like the tie straps have really been run rough on that chain too.

Philbert

 

[PowerSharp Eng]

No, it's not a warranty chain.

I took a close look at the way the drive links were stamped out. The drive links were reversed on purpose.

The stamping process creates a problem, it leaves the edge profile larger on one side than on the other side of the drive link. The picture shows how the edge of the drive link is angled. The short red lines are drawn to show the angle of the drive link edges.





The stamping die that made these parts made only one drive link at a time. So the larger edge profile is always on the same side of every drive link.


Running a chain with the larger profile all on the same side of the chain would cause wear on the nose sprocket and drive sprocket to the same angle. The nose sprocket would be pushed to one side of the bar and burn up. An angle worn in on the drive sprocket would cause the chain to walk sideways on the drive sprocket and cause chain throwing and damage the bar groove tail entry point.

So that is why the drive links are alternated.

 

[HarleyT]

So they are no longer "stamped out"? Were all chains of that era the same way?

Why don't you put up some pics of the chain making process today?

It would be one of the most looked at threads here.

 

[PowerSharp Eng]

Today's chains are stamped out. But an even number of drive links are made with every stroke of the stamping die. Half of the drive links have the larger edge profile on the right side of drive link and half have the larger edge profile on the left side of the drive link. This keeps the wear on the nose sprockets and drive sprockets symmetrical so the nose sprockets are not pushed to one side and the chain does not walk sideways on the drive sprocket.

Look closely at the teeth of a well used nose sprocket. The part of the nose sprocket teeth, in contact with the drive links, have a slight V shape.

 

[stubnail67]

so any one use this on a small top handle 14 inch?like echo? 52 drive link ... how does it fair on palm trees and small limbs? i use vxl right now....

 

[wde_1978]

My PowerSharp setup is 52DL, but I haven't used it yet!
Intended saws are 40cc/1.7kW/2.1HP Sachs-Dolmar 105 & 108.

I am having trouble getting my payed for firewood logs this year.
There was some sort of embezzlement affair with the forestry company.
I don't know the details, but it is 4 months since I played for my firewood logs and they still haven't been delivered.
Uppon requests to get our firewood delivered we get a sugarcoated excuse - this doesn't bode well.

I want to try my PS setup at home for ease of documentation.

 

[torch]

I read this entire thread, worked up an interest, sought out the PowerSharp website and found the product selector. I have an 025 homeowner's saw, an MS 261 Commercial, an MS290 Farm Boss and an MS360 Pro.

Not one them are listed.