Discussion in 'TreeStuff.com' started by palbin, Mar 8, 2015.
yes some times must take a ton of pills until you find a small shittty problem.
The stihl and husqvarna dont give warranties for the tools sorry. even for the MDG1 or the AUTOTUNE DIAGNOSTIC so buy from ebay or amazon
you happy your wallet happy
How sensitive is it with possibly minute leaks in im-
(One of mine such hoses looks spledid in pinciple,
but possibly as it could have been "shaken" a little
at its fittings due to vibrations to become ever so
slightly untight - just a (hopeful ) guess - should
be easily fixable in that case with tie-wraps (if that
is the right glossary) I suppose - which I have
plenty of ... .)
A lot of saws have some common problems , to have a generally idea the saw must hold pressure and vaccum for long time maybe loose a little but its other think to loose 1 psi after 2 minute and other after 5 seconds , some times the temperature and the vibrations deform a little some parts so a just a little leak its not the end of the world, yes you can use tie-wraps but better go to something more oem solution.
So _ I bought a Mityvac MV8500 pressure/vacuum kit
as well as a Mityvac MV5530 compression kit for a total
of 233 USD = 210 EUR from the USA - will have them
here within a couple of weeks or so - Mityvac MV8550
kit has scale pressure/vacuum range +/- 60 psi /4 bar
which seems too hefty for chain saw testing ... Mityvac
MV8500 seems to be the right kit for chain saws with a
scale pressure/vacuum range +/- 30 psi / 2 bar ... .
you only need 7 psi for the tests no more
If you look in 346xp workshop manual you are right
that many tests are 0,5 bar = 7 psi - but some are mo-
re pressure - for example that of decomp valve which
is 0.8 bar = 12 psi-ish ... anyway it was no I who start-
ed the talk about Mityvac-stuff ... .
before some weeks i have a stihl for repair was full of leaks have leaks even in the handles, the mytivac can not give me a good indication and i deep the saw in water, but i forget to low down the compraised air , i push the triger and ..................... a noise pop listen , its the clutch side seal, go out from the much pressure,
so dont go over 7 or 8 psi
OK - thanks - the last thing I want to do is to impose
unnecessary crank-shaft-seal-substitutions on myself
... that's for shure ... .
I dont dip them in water any more I just spray the whole thing with lots of soapy water and look in all the suspected places seals and gaskets being the usual. I test the fuel line, carb, the tank I do vac and pressure vac should not hold pressure should, I check impulse line everything.
i use the soapy water also , sometimes i deep them in water but the most times soapy water
Anyone who wants to work on saws should buy a vac tester.
now i have a 260 that the rpms dont go over of 10k , tomorow it have a good carb hammer test , it have break my head
Switch it with another.
its the eyes and the ears of the servicing saws, all others are in second position.
Saves money a lot of people just buy parts and try.
this will do tomorow buy a new carb and end of story
And if same
let them try
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