First the saw.
Pro mac 800 build with options
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Then a NOS piston and Cylinder kit. 
Time for investigation of the saw. 
Whole saw motor and muffler were full of reddish oil, I cleaned and remounted the oil pump .
Still no start, had spark and fuel?
Whole saw motor and muffler were full of reddish oil, I cleaned and remounted the oil pump .
Still no start, had spark and fuel?
Cylinder didn't look awful?
I was offered the saw at a very good price for the condition of the body and even with the toasted piston, but the seller was gracious enough to send me a very good A piston to see what I could do.
My NOS set is still there as back up.
But I only have one set of rings so I wanted to see if I could free the old ones from the roached piston.
Using a cheap knife I bevel cut the aluminum and picked for a hour. The rings are straight and look new except for some discoloration.
Installed on the next piston.
My NOS set is still there as back up.
But I only have one set of rings so I wanted to see if I could free the old ones from the roached piston.
Using a cheap knife I bevel cut the aluminum and picked for a hour. The rings are straight and look new except for some discoloration.
Installed on the next piston.
I'm really happy to see you with one of these beasts. A tidy 1 too
joeymt33
I bleed YELLOW!
Well, it’s been several days and we need an update!
Ordered seals from Bob J. yesterday.
Just like we read in every advertisement for new piston and cylinder kits it does no good to replace parts if there's an air leak and not knowing if it was straight gassed or something else I'd rather be safe than sorry.
Had time to pull the old seals from the crank bearing.
A small flat head screw driver is good for the small one and a regular seal puller for the big bearing.
A small flat head screw driver is good for the small one and a regular seal puller for the big bearing.
The large seal I pulled from the crank had "made in Singapore ,#19 " on the inside?
You can obviously see the difference in diameter of the id of the seals, between used and new.
Yotaismygame
Juiced Saws #GetJuiced
Was there any ring pin locators on that piston? General setup looks identical to a SP60 I'm working on. Blows my mind a bit the SP60 does not have any.
It does have very tiny ring locator pins.
I had a small chip in the chrome of the cylinder .Scotch pad was used on the bore .
I wanted to be sure that a ring or the piston itself isn't going to catch it on a raised part of the edge. Dremel sells a small abrasive wheel which is basically a scotch bright pad material. I went after the chip with both the coarse and fine wheels , it knocked any edges down.
I wanted to be sure that a ring or the piston itself isn't going to catch it on a raised part of the edge. Dremel sells a small abrasive wheel which is basically a scotch bright pad material. I went after the chip with both the coarse and fine wheels , it knocked any edges down.
First little seal is easy if you have any access to a vice. I just squared it up and closed down on it in the vice.
Being that I had to get the old piston off the connecting rod I purchased a CHEAP arbor press from northern tool supply.
The big seal is a little bit trickier if you don't remove the bearing from the crank(and the seal is more expensive).
I had cut some thin pieces of pecan and drilled a 5/8ths hole in a burly peice.
Im fairly certain that this peice would take just about 1000 lbs of pressure.
The big seal is a little bit trickier if you don't remove the bearing from the crank(and the seal is more expensive).
I had cut some thin pieces of pecan and drilled a 5/8ths hole in a burly peice.
Im fairly certain that this peice would take just about 1000 lbs of pressure.
Next I located a large thick washer and a 3/4 socket.
Shown as pressed
I took it nice and slow , the washer drove the seal in flat and square.
I had partially pressed the wrist pin into the rod and finished centering it on the press.
At first I tried to slip fit it by freezing the pin and heating the rod but it immediately caught and the pin didn't go farther than an 1/8th of an inch. It may be too hot in SC for that technique, if anyone has done it with a mac please let me know.
At first I tried to slip fit it by freezing the pin and heating the rod but it immediately caught and the pin didn't go farther than an 1/8th of an inch. It may be too hot in SC for that technique, if anyone has done it with a mac please let me know.
I like yellow electric tape for obvious reasons. 
Slide the new seal easy over the taped edge.
Slide the new seal easy over the taped edge.
So here it is , and thats the hard part if you ask me .
Without an arbor press I probably would have made a mess of the big seal, with such a large flange I didn't trust my old socket and hammer method and it was a good excuse to buy a press. I was also glad to have it for the piston too.
