Sounds like it will be a great saw for his needs.
I'm not sure who would say something like that.
Friends don't give friends stihls
.
Project "junk", a slow build
- Thread starter cuinrearview
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I'm not sure who would say something like that.
Friends don't give friends stihls
.
cuinrearview
Red saw lover
Well, he knows a guy if it has issues
Sounds like it will be a great saw for his needs.
I'm not sure who would say something like that.
Friends don't give friends stihls
I gotta think twice before letting you run my Stihl saws next time...
cuinrearview
Red saw lover
I DID say this would be slow. I finally finished running everything through the parts washer. The crank bearings are tight, and I don't expect this saw to see heavy use, so I elected to keep the bottom end intact. It will get new seals, which will be ordered this week.
I rebuilt the Hong Kong Zama this morning at work.
The impulse hose was stiff as a board, and the fuel line is a given to replace. The AV is all in great shape, so that will be re-used. My question is about the intake boot. It looks great, and it's very soft and pliable. I have no problem replacing it, but it seems very serviceable. Should it stay or go?
I rebuilt the Hong Kong Zama this morning at work. The impulse hose was stiff as a board, and the fuel line is a given to replace. The AV is all in great shape, so that will be re-used. My question is about the intake boot. It looks great, and it's very soft and pliable. I have no problem replacing it, but it seems very serviceable. Should it stay or go?
Looks good.
You have your hands on the intake, hard to tell from here, but from what you've saying the intake will be fine.
You have your hands on the intake, hard to tell from here, but from what you've saying the intake will be fine.
D
Deleted member 117362
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Will trees have fallen over, rotted or been cut down by the time you have finished? 
BuckthornBonnie
ArboristSite Guru
Intake is probably fine but look over all surfaces and flex the folds looking for cracks (or where cracks can start). If that saw has been wrenched on before, watch for over-zealous tightening of the intake clamp. The clamping surface shouldn’t be cut by the clamp at all... it could be indented, but not cut.
BuckthornBonnie
ArboristSite Guru
The impulse is Stihl’s conventional fuel line as you probably know. I’d use that over Tygon or anything else aftermarket.
Note the seal depth on both sides unless you already pulled ‘em or plan on using the Stihl seal tools.
Note the seal depth on both sides unless you already pulled ‘em or plan on using the Stihl seal tools.
cuinrearview
Red saw lover
Great advice! I looked the boot over pretty closely. I won't pull the seals until I have the new ones.
BuckthornBonnie
ArboristSite Guru
Most 1125s that come to me have bad fuel/impulse/oil lines. They were popular “farm saws” up here and lived a tough life. Some others had muffler issues, stripped screw holes, carb problems... a couple with shot bearings.
cuinrearview
Red saw lover
Luckily most of the farmers around here think they're bosses, and keep buying the same saws when one fails. I've mostly avoided them. When I get pro saws from farms they're usually gummed up.
drf255
BAD CAD
Build is looking good. I’m no pro, but I’ll add in some things I’ve learned.
As BTB said above, some had shielded bearings. The starter screws on some early 034/S were M4. The clutch surround plastics came in a few variations, I’ve even see a few push in types without screws holding in place (was an 034).
I prefer the side tensioner. Came on 034S and 036.
Advance the timing now. .025 off the key, just like you said.
As for squish, I believe you will be too tight without a gasket. You can figure out some custom material to get you where u want to be. I have some brass shim stock here if you need it. Just PM me if you want some.
That HONG KONG Zama is a great carb.
Open the muffler.
You’ll need a metal air filter for any real performance. Also, remove the coarse screen at the top of the AF cover and drill some holes there, then replace screen. On this model it makes a crazy difference. Guys in Canada can get them easily. How much can a bad airfilter hold it back? Take a look at these curves on same 360 PRO.
As BTB said above, some had shielded bearings. The starter screws on some early 034/S were M4. The clutch surround plastics came in a few variations, I’ve even see a few push in types without screws holding in place (was an 034).
I prefer the side tensioner. Came on 034S and 036.
Advance the timing now. .025 off the key, just like you said.
As for squish, I believe you will be too tight without a gasket. You can figure out some custom material to get you where u want to be. I have some brass shim stock here if you need it. Just PM me if you want some.
That HONG KONG Zama is a great carb.
Open the muffler.
You’ll need a metal air filter for any real performance. Also, remove the coarse screen at the top of the AF cover and drill some holes there, then replace screen. On this model it makes a crazy difference. Guys in Canada can get them easily. How much can a bad airfilter hold it back? Take a look at these curves on same 360 PRO.
Then who is
.
cuinrearview
Red saw lover
So you're saying he should run it with no filter?
Joking aside, thanks for the info. Gives me some things to think about. Any Canadian with a PP account want to hook me up with a filter?
On squish; will it be close enough that I could get there with some sanding of the band? I've never done it but I have a bad 48mm piston that I could stick in there to sand with.
I chose to use the 036 chassis. It does have shielded mains. We use a newer parts washer at work with a solvent with microbes in it or some crap. It works great but over night the bottom locked up tight and I had to work some oil in. It's freed up fine now.
I have enough there of the 034 that I might as well bring that one back too. I probably won't bore everyone with an account of that build.
Here's my shopping list:
BuckthornBonnie
ArboristSite Guru
Any chance the bearings got rusty?
BuckthornBonnie
ArboristSite Guru
I used a Coors Light can with Dirko for a base gasket on one 360.
These 1125s still use a paper gasket; I’ve been coating all rebuilds with loctite 518 recently.
Check that your case has the hole for the bar plate screw. Some did, some didn’t. I have one with no bar plate- just bumbers/guides in the case. They also make a plate that is a press fit over the bar studs.
These 1125s still use a paper gasket; I’ve been coating all rebuilds with loctite 518 recently.
Check that your case has the hole for the bar plate screw. Some did, some didn’t. I have one with no bar plate- just bumbers/guides in the case. They also make a plate that is a press fit over the bar studs.
cuinrearview
Red saw lover
The bar plate screw is still in there, but no plate? Strange. The PN I put down is the correct one. No rust in the bottom.
BuckthornBonnie
ArboristSite Guru
Nice. The fuel line hole on the 034 tank may need to be enlarged slightly for the 1127 line. The 036 should be ok...
cuinrearview
Red saw lover
.635mm off of the key(mostly metric mics here). My parts all arrived so hopefully I can get this back together soon.
