Pruning basic

[Hunt]

A couple of basic questions about pruning. From what I’ve read the best time of year to prune many trees is often around the very end of winter, say February. What about dead or diseased limbs? Is the best time to prune them whenever you discover them?

Also, what about pruning a tree to reduce its height: I have a couple of foster hollies near the front door that are now over 20 feet tall and show no signs of stopping. Besides being disproportionate to the entry [no, I didn’t plant them] they block the view from a couple of windows [see photo]. If I were to take off about six feet of the top leaders, should I cut it level, or at an angle so that water didn’t pool on the surface of the cut. I was planning to lean an extension ladder against the roof and then cut the leaders with a limb saw.



Similarly I will be pruning the trunk of a dogwood that has died at the top [see photo below]. It used to sit underneath a large oak but the oak fell in a storm so I think the dogwood has suffered since from direct sun. Any advice on any of this would be appreciated.

 

[Oldmaple]

Depends, how's that for an answer? Seriously though, in general, physiologically for the plant, dormant season pruning is best. Here in Michigan that is generally November through March (less than that in Virginia I would imagine). For sensitive species this is critical for less disease and insect problems, for other species it is less important. There are minor advantages to dormant season pruning but in all practicality it doesn't matter that much (other than sensitive species). Flowering trees can be affected in how much they flower by the times that they have live tissue pruned, but the dead tissue can be done anytime. Heading cuts (your Holly) should be done at an angle to prevent pooling, but more frequent pruning is best so the cuts you need to make are smaller. Pruning off of a ladder is a safety concern, OSHA has a huge problem with it so be careful, or better yet rent a lift.

 

[Riles32807]

Just my $.02, hollies are usually pretty hardy and tolerant of heavy pruning and trimming. Cut it back 6-8 inches fureter than where you want it on all sides. It will most likely send out a lot of new growth in the spring. When the new growth gets 3-4 inches trim it back to about a half inch from where you last cut it. Keep doing this until it gets to where you want it and you should have a fairly full holly shrub that is then manageable with regular trimming.

 

[Hunt]

Thanks for both replies...very helpful

 

[BC WetCoast]

The holly will tolerate pruning of any amount at any time of year (provided it isn't stressed by holly blight). I would cut it lower that what you want because it will grow like crazy in the spring. I don't think it makes much matter whether you cut it flat or at an angle. When I've had to do it, I really haven't worried about the slope of the cut because I'm usually cutting off an orchard ladder, reaching into the prickles trying not to get too scratched up. And yes, we cut them off a ladder unless they can be reached by the bucket. Power pole saw off a ladder is best. Climbing them SUX.

Cut the dogwood back to a substantial live limb.

 

[Hunt]

Thanks...I will probably have to suffer the scratches. Interesting, to me, footnote about the hollies. Traditionally, once the berries turn red, they are devoured in a mattered of days by a flock of robins. This year, I think because of the drought, the berries took a long time to ripen. They've been a rich red now for a couple of weeks but so far no denuding by the birds. One good byproduct of the poor rainfall in September and the first half of October.