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Puller advice

Spoon Carving With Tom

Spoon Carving With Tom

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Hey,

I’m looking for a small bolt puller, lots
of companies sell a bolt puller for steering wheels and harmonic balances, but I need a smaller one to pull off fly wheels and clutches on this stihl 07. The three bolts required are m4x0.7.

anyone got any idea where I might find one?
 

Okie

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I have all kinds and sizes of pullers, but usually my hang up is finding a readily available source of metric bolts of correct length, grade and size for the puller I want to use. I keep a big selection of Standard puller bolts with my pullers but have very few of the metric size stuff.
 
Goofaroo

Goofaroo

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I pick up any pullers I come across when I’m at flea markets and garage sales. I’ve acquired a lot of pullers over the years but so far I have never needed one on a chainsaw. Have you tried loosening the nut and leaving it a thread or two proud of the crank and prying under the flywheel while you tap on the nut with a brass hammer? Every one that I’ve needed to remove popped right off with no problem.
 
Spoon Carving With Tom

Spoon Carving With Tom

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I pick up any pullers I come across when I’m at flea markets and garage sales. I’ve acquired a lot of pullers over the years but so far I have never needed one on a chainsaw. Have you tried loosening the nut and leaving it a thread or two proud of the crank and prying under the flywheel while you tap on the nut with a brass hammer? Every one that I’ve needed to remove popped right off with no problem.
I got it off but not in the way it should have been done, I was more curious if stihl made a specific tool for it and if I could get one. I messed up the first two threads hitting the crank when the nut was too low. Never hitting it again, but as you say a brass hammer is a totally different ball game to the steel one I used. Stupidity on my part of course.
 
pioneerguy600

pioneerguy600

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I got it off but not in the way it should have been done, I was more curious if stihl made a specific tool for it and if I could get one. I messed up the first two threads hitting the crank when the nut was too low. Never hitting it again, but as you say a brass hammer is a totally different ball game to the steel one I used. Stupidity on my part of course.
Live and learn, Tom. We all have been there.
 
Spoon Carving With Tom

Spoon Carving With Tom

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Live and learn, Tom. We all have been there.
Thanks mate, I really appreciate the message, easy for people to jump in and give you a hard time for mistakes, but not you. Appreciate it a lot! I have cleaned up the threads a second time and ordere a second nut because now it works just fine. Even better I found out matty’s crank tools fit beautifully so I’m one happy Chappy!
 
lone wolf

lone wolf

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Thanks mate, I really appreciate the message, easy for people to jump in and give you a hard time for mistakes, but not you. Appreciate it a lot! I have cleaned up the threads a second time and ordere a second nut because now it works just fine. Even better I found out matty’s crank tools fit beautifully so I’m one happy Chappy!
The difference is you will learn from it and do it right next time I venture to say.
 

Okie

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Okie if you have a Fastenallstore near you, visit for a lot of metric and standard stuff.
Not any close but I keep forgetting about Fastenal. I'll now keep them in mind.
I don't like to use the whacko method for removing flywheels, but if I have to I try to use a strap or something so as the weight of the saw or engine is pulling down on the flywheel when I whack it or if I can slightly be prying out on the flywheel when it's whacked with a brass hammer and sometimes I gently warm the flywheel around the crank, Aluminum expands faster than steel so the warming method really helps. I usually use a industrial type electric heat gun, but if using a propane torch a rule of thumb is stop warming as soon as you spit on it and it spits back.
 

Okie

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He was not into a hard one to pull. (in the video)
Lots of ways to not TRY or do when pulling a flywheel or bearing and some can only be gained by experience of things not to do when you run into a contrary one. I've even had to leave the puller under strain for day or two with the peck and heat process.
Go by feel and If you want to break something, try a Impact wrench.
Tapered hubs on the rear axle of some of the old model vec's were also one of the tough ones.
His puller was actually a wimpy puller.
 
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