Question about climbing spikes

[dblack]

Hey guys. I just started climbing a few days ago. I have experience with a chainsaw and own a helmet and chaps. I do not have "logging" boots just normal high top work/hunting boots. I bought two steel flip ropes with prusiks, a weaver saddle, and a set of Buckingham climbing spurs. So far I have only used them to go about 20 feet up in the tree. I have tried a 12" DBH Walnut, a 16" DBH Hickory, and a 15" DBH pine to get more comfortable climbing. All three where straight with no limbs. My problem is I keep having issues with that shanks of the spurs wanting to slip off the backs of my legs. I am not sure if maybe I have them on wrong or I am using the wrong form but either way this is killing my knees and shins to use them. Can you guys give me some advice on why the shanks want to move to the back of my calfs or any other tips on climbing with spurs? I have a removal job coming up that is why I purchased them. I included a picture.Thanks

 

[Pager]

I can't quite tell from that view, but to me it looks like something is not strapped properly on the bottom near your feet.

Hey guys. I just started climbing a few days ago. I have experience with a chainsaw and own a helmet and chaps. I do not have "logging" boots just normal high top work/hunting boots. I bought two steel flip ropes with prusiks, a weaver saddle, and a set of Buckingham climbing spurs. So far I have only used them to go about 20 feet up in the tree. I have tried a 12" DBH Walnut, a 16" DBH Hickory, and a 15" DBH pine to get more comfortable climbing. All three where straight with no limbs. My problem is I keep having issues with that shanks of the spurs wanting to slip off the backs of my legs. I am not sure if maybe I have them on wrong or I am using the wrong form but either way this is killing my knees and shins to use them. Can you guys give me some advice on why the shanks want to move to the back of my calfs or any other tips on climbing with spurs? I have a removal job coming up that is why I purchased them. I included a picture.Thanks

 

[KenJax Tree]

I double wrap my lower strap around the shank it keeps them from twisting.


Sent from my Autotune Carb

 

[KenJax Tree]

Are your pads backwards?

Sent from my Autotune Carb

 

[2dogs]

I would not climb in chaps to start with. Wrap the shank of the spur as mentioned. They look long that may just be the pic. I'm not familiar with those pads but I do not like cheapo pads that come with most spurs. Look as Weesspur's selection of pads for something better. I use Euc pads, I think that is the name, they can use two calf straps if I want to.

In all honesty you need professional instruction on how to climb. One mistake can change your life forever.

 

[Pelorus]

Another photo or two would be helpful.
Those pads you have look none too comfortable. The old ones I use in photo aren't bad, and I also like the aluminum caps with the black foam rubber replaceable pads.
Make sure your spurs on on the right feet, and do the straps up snug. Too snug or too loose is gonna hurt.

[ ATTACH]328236[/ATTACH]

 

[2treeornot2tree]

Looks like the pads are on backwards.

Those leg pads are the most uncomfortable. I use the steel insert buck wraps. Also make sure your boots have a steel insole and a logger heel. You can get a cheap pair of caralina boots with the steel insoles for around $100.

I would lose the chaps for climbing. Most saw injury are to your hands while cutting.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

 

[2treeornot2tree]

Another thing. These trees you are climbing. Are you cutting them down or just practice climbing them. If your not removing them then you shouldn't be spiking them as it damages the tree.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

 

[dblack]

They are Loblollys someone is paying me to remove. I wrapped them and I am more comfortable now. I am topping them and then chucking them down. Any tips for feeling more comfortable in the tree especially when the diameter gets smaller than 8"? Thanks for the replies

 

[Pelorus]

On small dia. stuff I like to have my lanyard take a full wrap, ie. completely encircle the tree. If you happen to gaff out it will be less of a ride. You will become very mindful of gaff placement on small dia trees, esp. after you miss the tree and harpoon your opposite leg. Does your particular situation actually require climbing <8" dia trees / tops?

 

[dblack]

Wrapping the lanyard twice is a great idea!!! Is there any other tips you can give me? So far I have been going about 3/4s of the way up and tying a pull line and then coming down a good bit and essentially felling the top portion of the tree. This isn't as safe as climbing to the entire top and cutting the top out and then chunking it down but I am really struggling to find comfort and confidence after I climb most of the tree and stand 40 feet in the air to climb another twenty feet where the trunk is even skinnier. This is my first climbing job and I am trying to be as safe as possible. I am hoping I can find someone to give me some in-person safety tips but in the mean time I need tips for feeling more confident once I get closer to the top. I find that as long as I am working and actively engaged in what I am doing (moving my flip rope and looking at my gaff placement) I normally don't worry. It's once I talk to someone on the ground or fiddle with trying to get the saw started that some fear begins to creep in being so high. Were you guys uncomfortable when you first started? By the way I am my intent is not to appear as some redneck with a chainsaw. I am currently at Virginia Tech studying urban forestry and I am a member of the ISA. I am looking to become an arborist in the future but this is a start and I am very open to knowledge and criticism. Thanks

 

[2treeornot2tree]

Looks like you have plenty of room to just cut the tree from the ground.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

 

[Pelorus]

I really like using a 6' polesaw (minus the blade) to help advance my line, reach hangers, etc. You wouldn't think 6' is a big deal, but it does save a lot of extra time. I fastened a quick link to the bottom of it that a biner will fit so it can clip on my saddle. Downside is that it will occasionally catch on limbs while climbing, and adds a bit more unwanted weight to the saddle. Recently bought a sidewinder telescoping rope retriever that can extend to 9', but collapses to around 2'. Haven't tried it yet. Will be useless for pulling hangers.
Get proficient using a throwbag by hand and with a BigShot. Will save you extra climbing on small stuff.
Also, when climbing, take up at least one steel biner, and / or a throwbag to make line advancement easier. The extra weight will help a line throw farther, and retrieve easier. I usually just use a steel biner on a rigging / tag line, and grab it with my pole. Remove biner, tie a running bowline, and you are off to the races.

 

[Hoowasat]

... once I talk to someone on the ground or fiddle with trying to get the saw started that some fear begins to creep in being so high. Were you guys uncomfortable when you first started?

Uncomfortable at first? Heck, yeah! That fear should never go away because it helps retain respect for being in that position. If you fall, it's gonna' hurt bad (unless you die in the process). That fear should keep your mind on what you're doing at the present time. It's way too dangerous to allow your mind to wander or be distracted. I'd be happy to go over the various processes with you if you get down to southeast VA.

Have you read "The Tree Climber's Companion"? Great book for beginners ... and I am no pro.

 

[Pelorus]

The author of "The Tree Climber's Companion"; Jeff Jepson has recently published a new book: "Knots at Work - A Field Guide for the Modern Arborist"
It is an excellent, inexpensive resource on how to tie and employ arborist knots, written by an arborist.

 

[dblack]

I picked up a copy of the Tree Climber's Campanion at the TCIA show in charlotte. The book is handy but there are still some things that help if someone shows you in person. At this point my only goal is to learn to do safe removals with pretty straight hard and softwoods for people at my church and close friends. I will purchase a throw line and probably a Big Shot in the future. I am also going to buy 200 feet of climbing line and a descender in case I need to get down from the tree quickly. Hoowasat, what's the possibility I could come to Newport News sometime in March and get some more instruction from you? My Christmas break is over so I will not have weeks of free time until late May again because of school so a weekend is all I really have. Thanks for the help guys

 

[joezilla11]

The money u spend on a descender could be put toward buying a hitch hiker and open a lot of possibilities for uses climbing ddrt or srt with your climbing line cinched.

 

[Pelorus]

An aluminum Figure 8 is inexpensive and works fine for descending.
X2 on recommending you get a HH. (which works fine for descending).
I use my '8 for coming down an attached rigging line, (a practice considered by many to be a no no) like when we are going to pull down a spar that I've taken the top out of.

 

[Hoowasat]

Hoowasat, what's the possibility I could come to Newport News sometime in March and get some more instruction from you?

I have sent you a PM.

An aluminum Figure 8 is inexpensive and works fine for descending.

+1 ... my first descender was a "Rescue 8" which is a larger Figure 8 with ears that assist with securing a position part way down a descent. A Firgure 8 can also be rigged as a friction device for lowering cut limbs.

 

[Sean80]

Just a little tip: Don't push yourself once you get fatigued. I know it's hard sometimes because you just want the tree on the ground, but you are more prone to make mistakes when your body and brain are tired. One little mistake when climbing can cause some serious problems.