Raker Dial Indicator: Feedback on marketability

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Do these depth gauges work with Stihl chain?
Yes. That's what I use them on.

Yep, I have some FOP's but they do not work well with Stihl chain, so I was wondering if Brad could confirm that the Husky product would fit. My local Husky dealer does not carry them, so I'd have to order them on line.
I found that the FOPs set them too low on Stihl chain.
 
Do any of you members think it would be a seller? Any feedback much appreciated!
Nice, simple design.

Part of the question is how accurately people need to measure the depth gauge offset. Race filers and chain obsessed folks might be interested in a few thousandths. Most people are satisfied with the basic depth gauge tools available, and can use feeler gauges and a straight edge to measure this, if interested. Once one depth gauge is set, do you need to measure each link if using a grinder? Is this accuracy more important to performance, compared to rounding over the depth gauges after filing/grinding?

Then there are folks who prefer the progressive depth gauge approach (mentioned in earlier posts); or prefer to measure the angle, instead of a fixed offset, using the digital angle finders ('DAF', 'tilt box') also mentioned above. Classic thread on this is:
http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...ly-progressive-depth-raker-generators.114624/

That said . . . $30 to $40 (including the dial indicator?) is within the range for most chainsaw enthusiasts for a specialty tool. Could be useful for a shop, as a training tool, to clearly demonstrate to customers why their chains are not cutting.

If I was interested in that kind of precision, I would want to measure the chain in a flat, machined groove, instead of along a curved bar. I would also want a back plate, similar to what BobL did in the FOP thread (or something else) to prevent me from tipping the gauge (forward and back), affecting the readings, as noted. These features would raise the price quite a bit. I like the thought given to skip chain compatibility.

Philbert
 
I just ordered one each 3/8 and .325 pitch Husky gauges from Jack's Small Engines. Anything that will work easily in the field and approximates progressive filing is good for me, but I'm always looking for a better solution. I really like the FOP's but they just do not fit Stihl chain well.

I've pretty much stopped using the 1/4" wheel on my grinder for depth gauges because it is easy to burn them and the unit (NT 511a knockoff) has enough flex in it to be inconsistent. I have my 1/8" Oregon wheel on it now for grinding cutters on .325 chain, and use the Oregon 511a grinder with my CBN wheel on the 3/8" stuff.

I'm currently adjusting depth gauges by hand file using my Tilt Box, but a progressive filing depth gauge tool may prove quicker. It will be interesting to see how many degrees of drop the Husky gauge delivers.
 
For some reason I had trouble doing depth gauges on a grinder, even though I could sharpen cutters. Finally worked through the mental block. Some of it had to do with not accounting for bumper links when grinding. I even ordered the 5/16" thick wheel for depth gages - covers a wider area for the same price. Some guys profile their depth gauge wheels.

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/depth-gauges-on-a-grinder.200410/
http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...nding-and-drive-link-deburring-wheels.284866/

Bottom line is to find something that works for you.

Philbert
 
For some reason I had trouble doing depth gauges on a grinder, even though I could sharpen cutters. Finally worked through the mental block. Some of it had to do with not accounting for bumper links when grinding. I even ordered the 5/16" thick wheel for depth gages - covers a wider area for the same price. Some guys profile their depth gauge wheels.

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/depth-gauges-on-a-grinder.200410/
http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...nding-and-drive-link-deburring-wheels.284866/

Bottom line is to find something that works for you.

Philbert
I liked the idea someone posted a while back about running the chain backwards through the grinder to get the right side gauges equivalent to left side. I may have to try that out.
 
nice idea. This works good enough for me.
s-l1000.jpg
 

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