• Please be aware that we have recently gotten a wave of users that, when researched, are found to be from Nigeria. They are trying to sell products and asking to be paid through Zelle or Venmo leaving users with no recourse if they don't ship the product. If you suspect this activity please contact admin and we will research their information to verify their location.

ArboristSite.com Sponsors
Peak Industries


Ran the 090 at work today...how does it sound to you?

KarlD

KarlD

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Apr 11, 2019
Messages
427
Age
44
Location
UK
It sounded much better after you lost and put the airfilter cover back on, these saws don`t need to be pushed down on to cut, if the chain is sharp and the depth gauges set correctly these saws will self feed from their own weight. They are not high revving saws, let the torque do its work.
That was the first cut with the chain so basically out of the box sharp; with the torque of the saw do you think I should file the depth gauges a bit more than ‘normal’ so that the chain can take a deeper bite or keep standard. I had the throttle wide open for most of the cut, you say let the torque do the work, should I ease up on the throttle then? With practice I’ll feel my way into the saw :chainsaw::chainsaw::chainsaw:
 
pioneerguy600

pioneerguy600

Lost in Space
Staff member
Joined
Dec 23, 2007
Messages
39,880
Location
N.S. Canada
That was the first cut with the chain so basically out of the box sharp; with the torque of the saw do you think I should file the depth gauges a bit more than ‘normal’ so that the chain can take a deeper bite or keep standard. I had the throttle wide open for most of the cut, you say let the torque do the work, should I ease up on the throttle then? With practice I’ll feel my way into the saw :chainsaw::chainsaw::chainsaw:
For my 090 and 070 running .404 chain I set the depth gauges at .030 on Stihl chisel chain for most wood species. If the carb is set just a tad on the rich side these big saws make their most power/torque for pulling chain. I don`t push down on the front handle at all and the weight of the powerhead will set the pace for nice smooth cuts without stalling the clutch. If the carb is set leaner the engine will rev faster but lack full power, these saws don`t rev high but will cut very well with a good sharp chain. In the winter here when the wood is frozen I can lower the guides another 5 thou without problems but for the warmer seasons I like the .030 the best, the chain is not so grabby and it cuts more smoothly on the 48" and 60" bars. The throttle should always be held wide open when the chain is cutting, that keeps the clutch fully in contact with the drive drum, you don`t want the clutch slipping, it makes a lot of heat that can damage the crank seals. The light 4 stroking can be heard when the throttle is held wide open and the chain is not in the cut, the 4 stroking clears away and a nice even powerful sound comes on when the chain gets loaded in the cut, the saw is tuned correctly when this occurs.
 
KarlD

KarlD

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Apr 11, 2019
Messages
427
Age
44
Location
UK
For my 090 and 070 running .404 chain I set the depth gauges at .030 on Stihl chisel chain for most wood species. If the carb is set just a tad on the rich side these big saws make their most power/torque for pulling chain. I don`t push down on the front handle at all and the weight of the powerhead will set the pace for nice smooth cuts without stalling the clutch. If the carb is set leaner the engine will rev faster but lack full power, these saws don`t rev high but will cut very well with a good sharp chain. In the winter here when the wood is frozen I can lower the guides another 5 thou without problems but for the warmer seasons I like the .030 the best, the chain is not so grabby and it cuts more smoothly on the 48" and 60" bars. The throttle should always be held wide open when the chain is cutting, that keeps the clutch fully in contact with the drive drum, you don`t want the clutch slipping, it makes a lot of heat that can damage the crank seals. The light 4 stroking can be heard when the throttle is held wide open and the chain is not in the cut, the 4 stroking clears away and a nice even powerful sound comes on when the chain gets loaded in the cut, the saw is tuned correctly when this occurs.
Lots of info there for me to soak up; thank you for taking the time.

My 090 clutch has 4 of the 6 shoes with lining, the other two are bare. It looks like some users will remove the remaining 4 linings and run metal to metal, others leave alone and some spend out on a new clutch. Do you think I’m losing power as it stands?
 
pioneerguy600

pioneerguy600

Lost in Space
Staff member
Joined
Dec 23, 2007
Messages
39,880
Location
N.S. Canada
I would say the clutch will slip more easily so that could result in less cutting power, lucky for me my clutches still have their linings. If all the shoes are missing their linings I have heard through others that the saw will operate but it stretches the spring somewhat causing more problems down the road.
 
Nitroman

Nitroman

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Jun 27, 2007
Messages
1,707
Location
Southwest Alaska
The light 4 stroking can be heard when the throttle is held wide open and the chain is not in the cut, the 4 stroking clears away and a nice even powerful sound comes on when the chain gets loaded in the cut, the saw is tuned correctly when this occurs.
Excellent explanation of tune, and yes, your saw sounded really good.
 
KarlD

KarlD

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Apr 11, 2019
Messages
427
Age
44
Location
UK
Excellent explanation of tune, and yes, your saw sounded really good.
Thanks. Just ran it again for half an hour; let it get really hot first and it was flawless cutting. Not noticeably more vibration than the more modern saws either...maybe after a decade of running an 090 all day it would be a different story tho :muscle:
 
sawfun

sawfun

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Jan 11, 2014
Messages
2,856
Age
56
Thanks. Just ran it again for half an hour; let it get really hot first and it was flawless cutting. Not noticeably more vibration than the more modern saws either...maybe after a decade of running an 090 all day it would be a different story tho :muscle:
At least your running an AV model.
 
KarlD

KarlD

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Apr 11, 2019
Messages
427
Age
44
Location
UK
Sounds great! It seemed like it cut better with the bar buried.
Yes I think it cuts better hot too. Being buried seemed to make very little difference to how hard the saw was having to work, very different to most if not all of my other saws. It’s definitely a beast
 
KarlD

KarlD

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Apr 11, 2019
Messages
427
Age
44
Location
UK
At least your running an AV model.
As much as I like a smooth saw for the day in day out mundane tree work I do, breaking out an old saw with the associated snarls, vibrations and fizzing is a real treat. It’d be a nightmare if every saw I used felt like the 090, but as an occasional treat it’s perfect. I cannot wait to get my dolmar ct going and have a play with that. It’s bigger bodied than the 090 and 20cc smaller and weighs a lot less but it just feels right in the hand. Hopefully it will feel right running as well
 
buzz sawyer

buzz sawyer

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Mar 7, 2006
Messages
5,670
Location
Western border of mid-southern northern WV
As much as I like a smooth saw for the day in day out mundane tree work I do, breaking out an old saw with the associated snarls, vibrations and fizzing is a real treat. It’d be a nightmare if every saw I used felt like the 090, but as an occasional treat it’s perfect. I cannot wait to get my dolmar ct going and have a play with that. It’s bigger bodied than the 090 and 20cc smaller and weighs a lot less but it just feels right in the hand. Hopefully it will feel right running as well
I feel the same way when I get a chance to run my sp125c.
 
KarlD

KarlD

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Apr 11, 2019
Messages
427
Age
44
Location
UK
Well the old girl came out to play again today on a medium sized English oak; felled the butt and ringed up about 10' with her and found every nail, screw and bastard bit of shrapnel that was in the tree. I have honestly spent 3 hours (at least) and 4 of 5.5mm files getting the chain 'acceptable' again. In the cut the saw was great, went through the wood and metal like butter...otherwise she was struggling. She was racing when she should be idling which I thought might be weak clutch springs as a result of two of the clutch linings being AWOL...now I watch it back and listen I'm not so sure. BTW I have not yet adjusted the carb as suggested by Brad...I would have done if the chain wasn't spinning on idle like it is.


No more work for her until I fix the issue.
 
Top