rebuilding my first stihl

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Outdoorguy1979

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so I picked up 2 stihl saws, a 029 and a 311 for 25.00. the 311 im just going to part out and im going to rebuild the 029. I did a compression test on the 311 and it had 200 psi and was wondering what the psi should be? there was also a yellow liquid that came out of it. and the 029 needs a new motor. I was wondering is the cylinder and piston of the 311 interchange with 029? I also wanted to know is there a website were I can get stihl parts from? jacks small engines seems to not carry stihl parts and ebay and amzon have some stuff.i also am looking for a good cylinder and piston kit.
 
Yeah it looks like pb nut buster, it's what came out of my compression tester after I hit the compression valve. And i was wrong it's a 310 not a 311. I'm going to finish putting new fuel lines on my husky 445 and tune the carb, then tear into the 029 and see what damage there is
 
MS310 motors will fit o29 chassis. But that yellow fluid may be a mix of gas residue, oil and water? I built two o39's for cutting, using earlier Italian-made Meteor 390/039 cylinder kits. Had to clean up ports, but these have run well. But current Meteor kits are a bit different and appear to come from Taiwan (maybe?).
 
If you haven't built this version of saw before, that model of Stihl saw requires that the front bar stud be removed if you need to remove the lower engine pan. Very frustrating if you don't know - it's hard to figure out why it won't come apart.

Some swear by the "double nut" method to remove the stud, but I have never had any luck with that method. I lock the stud in a vice (with the vice gripping the bar-nut threaded part) and turn the whole saw power head to get them out. This is hard on the bar-nut threads of the stud coming out, but that is why I always have spare studs on hand.
 
I'm also picking up another 029 and a 391 tomorrow if he dont sell it to someone else. This 029 runs but if you hit the trigger it dies. The 391 is a rebuild.
 
Clean the cylinder up on the 029 and put a new piston in as on these, good piston available are limited. On the 310 recheck the compression as it is probably good, but if it is making 200 compression it has had some serious work done on it in the past. Get both of them running good then sell and buy the best MS360 or MS361 you can find.
 
If you haven't built this version of saw before, that model of Stihl saw requires that the front bar stud be removed if you need to remove the lower engine pan. Very frustrating if you don't know - it's hard to figure out why it won't come apart.

Some swear by the "double nut" method to remove the stud, but I have never had any luck with that method. I lock the stud in a vice (with the vice gripping the bar-nut threaded part) and turn the whole saw power head to get them out. This is hard on the bar-nut threads of the stud coming out, but that is why I always have spare studs on hand.

I remember the first time I did one of those, I was like 'whut in tarnation!' Seems like I used some vise grips on it and a lot of gumption.
 
I'm more of a hobby builder I do fix and sell husqvarna I can find parts everywhere for them. Stihl on the other hand these will be my first build so I'm a lil nervous on building these.
 
I'm trying to find the professional saws to fix but I'm not spending 300. Bucks a piece and need rebuilt I dont care if they are 80 or 100 cc.
 
Has anyone used HL supply seems to have good reviews
I just did an 029 rebuild with an 039 from hl supply. There are a couple YouTube videos on rebuilding these saws, I found them helpful when I had to take the bar stud out....and reassembling the saw since it sat for a month disassembled.
 
I remember the first time I did one of those, I was like 'whut in tarnation!' Seems like I used some vise grips on it and a lot of gumption.
I tried that too, and then stumbled on someone saying "put the stud in a vise and turn the whole saw" Way easier!!!
 
Another idea I use when disassembling clock movements - I have three empty 18 count egg cartons placed end-to-end on my bench. Each egg compartment is numbered. As I take small parts, screws, nuts, off, they go in an egg compartment. That way, when I go to reassemble, I know the order I removed things. Works great for clocks - might work for saws too.
 

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