Rebuilding stihl 044

[Mike Whitmore]

If i remove the washer and put clutch on its not tightening up the spin on the crank...when i put the washer in and put clutch on it is pressing washer against spacer, which is placing pressure against race on pto side bearing

 

[Mike Whitmore]

Ok i put piston on and rings and new head, flywheel, flywheel clip was a bit of a pain. It was difficult getting enough of it exposed. With everything assembled its difficult to tell the difference of when the washer is in or not under the clutch assembly. I think the resistance was alot more noticeable without the piston and cylinder.

 

[Mike Whitmore]

Also a note...if your using nylon rope to stop the piston from topping out to tighten flywheel or clutch. Make sure the nylon rope it too frayed at the end...if it is pieces can go out the exhaust port and the piston can travel past the frayed parts and get the piston stuck. I melted the ends on my nylon after this happened. But it scared me when the rope and piston were stuck... just needed to back the piston the other way

 

[pioneerguy600]

If i remove the washer and put clutch on its not tightening up the spin on the crank...when i put the washer in and put clutch on it is pressing washer against spacer, which is placing pressure against race on pto side bearing

The bushing should not contact the bearing at all, it is stopped by the step in the crank shaft, if its pressing on any part of the bearing then the bearing is set too deep and is protruding out toward the clutch too far. Usually the bearing will be stopped by the oil pump housing that should be installed bolted down tight before the bearing is seated in the crankcase.

 

[Mike Whitmore]

I had the oil pump in and tightened down when i seated the bearing

 

[Mike Whitmore]

Ill take the oil pump out tomorrow and see of that bushing is touching. I just realized i wont be able to tell with seal in there

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

Was the oil pump in when you centered the crank? There’s a chance you bumped the bearing out a touch... especially if the case was still hot.

 

[Mike Whitmore]

Yes oil pump was in whole time..only took it out to put seal in

 

[Mike Whitmore]

Had to go to smithsonian today daughters field trip...going catfishin tomorrow...so itll be a bit























Sent from my iPhone

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

Nice!

No rush, man.

 

[Mike Whitmore]

Got it all back together started it up. Idled ok...but give it throttle and it gags... tore it back apart did a vacuum test holds vacuum fine....but pressure it leaks slowly...tore the flywhhel off and the clutch, and oiler out......flywheel side is air tight..no soap bubbles...pto side...leaks but not at the seal air leaks out the end of the spacer between the spacer and the crank....the seal wont seal without the spacer correct? Seems like the spacer fits inside the seal and pushes everything in place....not sure if that real slow leak around the crank between the crank and the spacer is enough of a leak to cause the problem...with oiler and clutch on its a slow leak of pressure only...like takes a minute to drop from 7-5....not sure how else i can crank down on the bushing against the shaft to try to get a better seal besides the clutch......is this the problem? Or is it in the carb....i replaced everything except the carb and didnt do anything to carb

 

[Mike Whitmore]

The air is leaking out the end around the crank shaft of 11 above.....do i need some sealer inside the spacer?...it seems like the air should not be getting to the crank shaft and spacer...maybe i need to seat the seal a little deeper?

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

Spacer packed with grease or o-ring shouldn’t allow much air with the clutch properly torqued.
*debate about that o-ring. I’ve used grease.

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

Go through that carb.

 

[Mike Whitmore]

So the o-ring is on the outside of the spacer...and is worn ...i will try grease tomorrow...thanks for the quick reply..much appreciated

 

[Mike Whitmore]

Ive never done a carb before....but then again i had never replaced a piston and cylinder either...

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

No prob. Settling the kids for the night and got the notification.

Good grease or a new o-ring, torque everything close to spec (clutch). Re-check p/v.

I’m betting on that carb or perhaps impulse line.

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

Easy to go through a 2-stroke carb.

Take pics, remove screws and gaskets/diaphragms from both sides. Unscrew low/high screws, inspect everything. Remove screw on metering side, check spring and needle. Use carb cleaner but avoid long contact with gaskets unless you’re replacing them (I would). Spray in any hole, gently. Avoid compressed air.

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

Ive never done a carb before....but then again i had never replaced a piston and cylinder either...

Everybody’s gotta start somewhere.

There’s nothing that can’t be done.

What one man can do, another can do.

And various other quotes...

 

[Mike Whitmore]

How do i know which carb it has?... i think this is the right one..
STIHL MS 270 MS 280 029 MS 290 310 039 MS 361 390 044 046 MS 440 MS 441 MS 460 WALBRO K10-HD CARBURETOR KIT
https://www.sawagain.com/stihl-ms-2...0-ms-441-ms-460-walbro-k10-hd-carburetor-kit/


Or do i just do this?
https://www.sawagain.com/stihl-044-...bro-hd-17a-hd-16d-replacement-carburetor-new/