Remington 754g clutch replacement, military

[SawTuner]

Hi guys, I have a Remington super 754g military version and the clutch was slipping something terrible. So I decided to make a post on how to do it since I couldn't really find much on it.

 

[SawTuner]

So first up you have to remove all the screws. KEY NOTE there is a screw on the back side of the case by the bar mount. DO NOT forget this screw or you will brake the cover.

 

[SawTuner]

After you take off the cover, if you haven't already drained the oil, there will be residual oil left over from both the bar oil and gear oil housings so be prepared with a tub or something underneath. Next is to remove the gears, they are removed from front (bar side) to back (handle side). The first one is the front gear attached to the shaft with the sprocket. You will see that next to the sprocket is a hex bolt head looking piece, that is a 13/16 hex and you will need a long wrench to hold that. Also it will need to be fairly thin to fit in there. With the wrench holding the shaft from spinning you will need some type of a spanner to fit in the 2 holes on the gear. Same as the special tool Remington had for the clutches. ( I made a special tool specifically for this, seen in a picture later). The gear is threaded onto the shaft and it is very tight! This gear is right hand threads, so lefty loosy, righty tighty. I usually heat the gear with a torch because they are extremely tight and it helps in removal.

 

[SawTuner]

Now that the gear is removed the second gear, or middle pair, can just be pulled out. Then the clutch drum can be pulled out too. Also I should've mentioned this earlier but you need to make note of where the thrust spacers and bearings are and replace them in there corresponding spots.

 

[SawTuner]

Now we have an empty gear box with just a clutch left. Now the clutch on this is different than the usual because it is a military saw, but the dimensions are all the same. The clutch on this is removed the same way as the gear. One difference is the clutches are REVERSE threads, so it is clockwise to remove it. Also a cool little trick for the Remington super series saws, there is a small hole on the back side of the flywheel housing. Put something in there and rotate the flywheel until it locks. I use an allen wrench, they seem to work well. This will keep the crank from turning to remove the clutch.
Here you can see the clutch removed next to a standard Remington clutch.

 

[SawTuner]

Here you can see the difference in clutch material, the original is solid steel, probably why it was slipping because I just had plain old gear oil in it. The other clutch, one going back in, has actual friction material for the shoes, hopefully works a bit better. Like I said earlier these clutches both have the same dimensions and same reverse thread. So just install the new clutch and make sure it is tight!

 

[SawTuner]

Here you can see the tool I made, I find it extremely helpful to use an impact for use on the gears. This tool works on all the gears and clutches for the super series Remington saws. Just reinstall the clutch drum and middle set of gears, then make sure to thread on the last gear tight. I use the impact to tighten it but use what you have available.

 

[SawTuner]

Now all that is left is to reseal the gear box. Make sure all sealing surfaces are clean and oil free. You will either have to remake a gasket or put some type of sealant on the old one if it isn't too ripped up. You CAN NOT remove the gasket all together and just use silicone or whatever to seal it. The spacing on the inside of the box and gears accounts for that gasket thickness. If you do not use a gasket it will put tension on the gearbox and crack the case when tightening the screws.
I was able to reuse my gasket and just put some silicone on it. Then reinstall all screws and let sealant cure. DO NOT forget the screw on the back side of the housing by the bar mount. This screw helps seal the bar oil reservoir from the gear box oil.

 

[SawTuner]

Once the sealant is dry, if you used any, make sure to add 3 oz. of gear oil to the gear box. I used 80w-90 because that's what I had at the time. Typically I prefer something a little thicker.
Now all that's left is to put a bar and chain on and cut! I tried it out and so far so good, no more slipping.
I hope this is helpful to others that may have been in the same situation as me.

 

[Brufab]

Thanks for the great step by step information.

 

[Brufab]

So the clutch is essentially bathed in gear oil? That's extremely interesting. The original clutch was metal and the new one is like a semi metallic brake shoe material. I always thought if oil got on the clutch shoes the clutch would slip.

 

[Drptrch]

Nice thread !! This one's mine. Cool saw. Big grunt !!

Sent from my iPhone using see

 

[Brufab]

Nice thread !! This one's mine. Cool saw. Big grunt !!

Sent from my iPhone using see

That muffler looks cool.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

The homelite super 55 gear drives have the organic clutch material bathed in gear oil also.

 

[SawTuner]

So the clutch is essentially bathed in gear oil? That's extremely interesting. The original clutch was metal and the new one is like a semi metallic brake shoe material. I always thought if oil got on the clutch shoes the clutch would slip.

I have actually seen multiple other gear drive saws with a semi metallic clutch bathed in gear oil also. The McCulloch 640 saws were like that on some models. The clutches seem to work fine that way, must be a different material than what we are used to nowadays.

 

[cbfarmall]

The hard part of removing these Remington gear clutches is finding a pin spanner that will reach down into the case to engage the clutch. I've stuck 2 pins in a vice, locked the flywheel and turned the entire saw. My pin spanner is too short. In this case, I might work the shoes off and use a punch to spin the hub off, flywheel not locked.

 

[SawTuner]

The hard part of removing these Remington gear clutches is finding a pin spanner that will reach down into the case to engage the clutch. I've stuck 2 pins in a vice, locked the flywheel and turned the entire saw. My pin spanner is too short. In this case, I might work the shoes off and use a punch to spin the hub off, flywheel not locked.

They can be a trick to get off.

 

[cbfarmall]

I forgot about unscrewing the front gear. That was a collosal pain.

 

[kanga kuta]

The hard part of removing these Remington gear clutches is finding a pin spanner that will reach down into the case to engage the clutch. I've stuck 2 pins in a vice, locked the flywheel and turned the entire saw. My pin spanner is too short. In this case, I might work the shoes off and use a punch to spin the hub off, flywheel not locked.

There are adjustable pin spanners with a large range of movement.

 

[kanga kuta]

View attachment 837447
Here you can see the difference in clutch material, the original is solid steel, probably why it was slipping because I just had plain old gear oil in it. The other clutch, one going back in, has actual friction material for the shoes, hopefully works a bit better. Like I said earlier these clutches both have the same dimensions and same reverse thread. So just install the new clutch and make sure it is tight!View attachment 837448

Did it ever win "light-Weight Chainsaw of the Year"?