Post it up then, I would like a copy of it. Just sayin
Remington Chainsaws(including Mall chainsaws)
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Post it up then, I would like a copy of it. Just sayin
happysaws
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I can try... But, I'm not home this week. I'll try to post them when I get home.
hi men. just saw this on C/L. can anyone identify it. NO i'm not buying it!!!! looks pretty cool with the swivel head/bar.
https://reading.craigslist.org/atq/6175800849.html
https://reading.craigslist.org/atq/6175800849.html
Mall.
Em are too heavy for skinny geezers.[emoji26]
Em are too heavy for skinny geezers.[emoji26]
Close as I'm going to get. Bantam G owner's manual. Most Bantam's are created equal.
Hello all. Glad to have found this site, I have looked a long time for info on this old saw I have.
I know for sure it's a Remington, has a sticker on the left side cover that say's 65CC, a compression release, and a manual chain oil pump.
Can anyone offer a model number for this based on the description I gave? I thank you for any help on this.
I know for sure it's a Remington, has a sticker on the left side cover that say's 65CC, a compression release, and a manual chain oil pump.
Can anyone offer a model number for this based on the description I gave? I thank you for any help on this.
happysaws
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SL-11
Thank you happysaws. I now have a nos clutch drum for it. The bronze bushing inside the drum needs to be pushed out in order for the original outer bearing sleeve to fit, but it looks like a good fit after that.
How does the bar oil get into the crankcase? I have found a video that covers a fix for the bar oil getting into the crankcase and cylinder, but are the bar oil reservoir and crankcase not separated physically?
I don't quite understand how the bar oil can get into the crankcase and cylinder. Can you explain that? ty.
Blown duckbill.
Crankcase pressurizes the oil tank via a rubber one way check valve. Rubber has turned to tar allowing engine to suck in bar oil.
Complicated fix.
Crankcase pressurizes the oil tank via a rubber one way check valve. Rubber has turned to tar allowing engine to suck in bar oil.
Complicated fix.
o k. Mine is not an auto oiler, does the oil tank still get pressurized? Solution is to leave bar oil out or fix the valve, hmmmm what to do what to do.
Two flow control locations were used on auto oiler saws.
Small SL-9 and SL-4 type are at the bar mount.
Larger ones were at the rear handle.
Small SL-9 and SL-4 type are at the bar mount.
Larger ones were at the rear handle.
I will defer to more knowledgeable people such as yourself. Seeing the pump knob/button I assumed it was a manual oiler, and being told by the guy I purchased it from 30 years ago that the oiler was manual was the only info I had. (I still learning) I went to the only place in the county where chainsaws and other such things are serviced, and actually bought a duckbill valve. The counter guy had to look for a while, but he found two. I feel like replacing it is within my ability. Gonna see anyhow.
This is the first website I've found that has any information on these old saws. No other place has been as informative, even in the short time I have been here.
This saw mostly sits and waits. Sometime for years.
tyvm.
well, I put the valve inside the fitting where the screen is. It is under the small metal ring, with the screen on top of that. I pulled the valve out a tiny bit to where it felt "seated", but still retained. The oil control is at the bar mount. After reassembly of those parts, the residual oil in the tank seems to squirt out a little bit better and makes a louder sound. Mebbe it's fixed. I took some pix, but my phone format is not accepted by this site. I have no idea why not.
Download pics to your desktop 'puter and load them from it to the website.
Yep, that's the routine, but for some reason my phone is not playing well with my pc. It does not assign a file format to the images. Gonna have to look at that.
haha. here it is before putting it back on. huge image, like I said, my phone is being an ass.
That's a Homelite duckbill which are a bit soft.
When done running the saw, 'burp' the oil tank pressure by loosening the fill cap.
When done running the saw, 'burp' the oil tank pressure by loosening the fill cap.
I'll do that. ty.
happysaws
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Working on a PL-7A and I noticed that the connecting rod cap looks weird, almost like it is broken... What say you?
