Discussion in 'Chainsaw Stickies' started by wampum, Apr 19, 2011.
Here's a Super 770 I picked up. Same crank extension..
Strange looking carb. Any idea what it is?
That is a different one. Never seen a carb like that on a Saw. Was always under the assumption that all those model saws used the HL.
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Looks like a Carter ND carb
That's the critter Ray. Thanks for finding the info. At least I can get a kit for it.
The saw doesn't appeared to have been used much and except for the grime on the outside from sitting in a shop for years, it's pretty clean inside. The fuel tank was drained and is clean as a whistle.
had 770, could never get the carter to work right. friend bought it for shelf queen.
I'll get to the 770 one day.
The 990 is an interesting saw. I've never seen anything like the design. Weird how the PTO side seal rides on a machined surface coming off the clutch drum. Double bearing in the drum but any chance of holding pressure or vacuum for long seems impossible. The crank bearing and thrust bearing on the PTO side look good and the seal should be any easy one to find.
The points, condenser and coil are on a plate under the flywheel. It appears that the reed(s) are attached to the front of the crankcase. I looks like the rod is unbolted from the opening and the piston drawn back and removed through the side of the case. I am going to find out.
The comp is only at 120 so I'm hoping I can find some Cabers that will fit.
Look closely at the sprocket drum bore. You should see one or two lip seals in with the needle bearings.
120psi is Great! Save your time and money.
I have two Super 75a. One pumps 110 and the other 90. Both run good.
Tune the carb to compensate for the vac leak.
A Tilly HL from another Bantam type is the best alternative to the Carter ND.
You will need to drill access holes for the jet crews.
Thanks for the info Carl! Just looked at the drum and I can see the seal.
Hi guys, Homelite guy here. My question is I have a new cylinder and I believe it fits a Remington saw. 63401 cast on cylinder. Bore is 1 7/8. Possibly for a PL4, maybe others? Has a new piston and rings also. Any information would be helpful.
Hello all. I was given a Remington PL-4 that was sitting under a workbench for untold years. Topped off fuel tank with fuel, oil in tank and within 10-12 pulls she fired off.
Now looking for some parts to fix her up nice. The bar is a 16 uxl 50 hardnose, researching shows to be a Windsor bar, any ideas on drive links needed for this bar?
I now have CAD badly, working on a PL-4 Husky 45, 268, and homelite 3514c.
Whats the cure???
A windsor 16 uxl 50 also fits Homelites. I don't know on a Remington, but it used 60 drive links of 3/8 pitch on a Homelite.
Finally after some months of sitting on my hands I got to the 990.
Hello everyone. Picked up an old Remington saw today while out buying another old saw for my Partner addiction.
It is a runner. Starts and runs good, wild compared to a modern saw. Once I laid eyes on it, i couldn't leave without it.
Would love to know the year on it. How does serial number Identification work on these? I have serial Number 6-571-5839.
Thanks for any help folks.
SL-9 (duh!) 46 cc, reed valve.
SN near worthless. Stack exhaust is an early production feature.
John Deere 15, 50cc for comparison.
Thanks for the info. It's a great little saw.
What type of fuel mix should I run? I have heard as long as I am using a good oil the 50-1 I use in my newer saw would be fine?
I run 32:1.
I have a Lawnboy mower and the saws have to share.
Thanks. I'll mix up a small separate jug of 35:1 or 32:1
When I go shopping for synthetic mix oil I look for the eight ounce bottles and the mix ends up 32:1.
Not finding that I choose the 6.4 ounce or the tiny single serving 40:1 stuff.
I’ve no brand preference as I don’t cut/burn wood. I just overhaul saws and when they leave here it’s on the new owner to figure it out on his own.
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