Remington Chainsaws(including Mall chainsaws)

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Lotsa work to do there but if the P&C are clean and it cranks, it should run. Take a look a the coil. Sometimes the outer covering cracks and falls off. I've repaired some with black hi-temp silicone sealer. Some have used liquid electrical tape. Fly wheel should have a built in puller using the retaining nut. My GP and 2MG did.
 
Lotsa work to do there but if the P&C are clean and it cranks, it should run. Take a look a the coil. Sometimes the outer covering cracks and falls off. I've repaired some with black hi-temp silicone sealer. Some have used liquid electrical tape. Fly wheel should have a built in puller using the retaining nut. My GP and 2MG did.

There's dirt and gunk in the cylinder. Think I'll have to pull the head. Crazy question....are rings available for these?
 
Does anyone know what carb that is? Obviously a tillotson but I'd like to get a kit ordered.

Clean it up and find the HL number.

Regarding the piston rings, an old trick is to swap the bottom ring to the top. Keeping track of which ring is which, put them inside the cylinder, square them up and measure the ring gap. You'll also need to measure the diameter of the piston ring pin in the piston itself. That factors into the gap. Clean it all up with some scotch brite and reassemble. These were never high compression flashy saws. That title belonged to McCulloch and Homelite. Unless the rings are broken, or scored, or corroded, or plain worn-out, it will probably run fine.

Seals are easy. Same as the Bantams as I recall. CR7443 and CR9838. Don't try to reuse old gaskets for the carb intake. Even with sealant they are likely to leak air and cause poor running.

Get the flywheel off and check the ignition. Probably will need a coil if it is the Bendix style. It can be fixed. That flywheel should have a captive nut so all you need to do is loosen with the impact and it'll pop off. No puller needed.

Chris B.
 
Is this the Logmaster? If the plug wire is still firmly attached, before removing the coil, I would carefully work some black silicone sealer into the cracked area. After it sets, coat the whole thing with liquid electrical tape.


Yes it is a logmaster...the plug wire is iffy. Looks like some strands are broken already. I'll have to put my glasses on and look close tomorrow. Good idea about sealing the coil before I remove it. Both sides are cracked so I'll get the outside 1st.
 
Hi guys! I've got the possibility to buy a pair of Super 754's.At this point I don't know the condition of either one,or the asking price.I'd like to know where everyone here sources their parts from.I know Evilbay has some,but like everything else with vintage saws I know it'll be pricey.Thanks in advance.
Ed
 
Nice find. The 78 chain is 7/16 .058, the chain next to it makes the 7/16" chain look tiny.

Netted two loops of 9/16” and eight loops of 7/16” NOS chain.
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One loop of ‘tiny’ 3/8”.

NOS cylinder is #35254 2 1/16” bore for an SL5. No great score there.

I think I have enuff 9/16” to put a decent loop on my SL5R.
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Which can be transferred to my GL7R should I get it to actually run.
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Hi guys! I've got the possibility to buy a pair of Super 754's.At this point I don't know the condition of either one,or the asking price.I'd like to know where everyone here sources their parts from.I know Evilbay has some,but like everything else with vintage saws I know it'll be pricey.Thanks in advance.
Ed

Whole saws are easier to come by, if you have 2 then you've got a parts saw.
 
I think I originally posted this in the wrong location.

Hi all, I don’t often post here but I read a lot of the topics and responses and appreciate all the knowledge that is shared here.
I recently acquired a good looking Remington SL11 and it looks complete except that it is missing a carburetor. I looked on acresinternet and it states it takes a Tillitson HS-82A or a HS-108B. I’m not having much luck in finding one. It seems like a nice saw, fairly light with a 65.5 cc engine. I’ve never owned a Remington saw and would like to get it running. I’ve noticed that the Remington model PL-5 is the same displacement and looks similar. Perhaps the SL11 was a newer version of PL-5? Anyway, I found a carburetor from a PL-5 on eBay. Acresinternet says the PL-5 uses an HS series carb but no actual model beyond that. Is there anyone here that knows if I could use the PL-5 carb for this SL11 or any leads on a carburetor for it.


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