Remington Chainsaws(including Mall chainsaws)

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I'd just like to make a correction so no one else makes the same mistake that I did.The bar studs on an SL-9 are 5/16-24,not 5/16-18 as I was told.I went out & bought 10 incorrect nuts for those bar studs that cost me a bit over $11.

I'm looking for 2 clutch springs for an SL-9,part # 66847.If anyone has some extras I'll buy them.

I was talking with Buford Parrish last week & he told me he had a cylinder & piston kit for a PL4 or PL5.He had the same for an SL-10.These cylinders were taken back by Remington & sent out & rebored the next size over & they have an oversized piston with rings to fit.I have no idea how much he wants for these items.His phone # 502-584-6346.
 
It must be nice to be able to just hop in a vehicle & go to your nearest hardware store any old time your heart desires.I haven't been able to drive sine '92 due to an hereditary eye disease,so I have to buy most all of my stuff online & wait for it to arrive.
The nuts I bought were grade 8,flanged lock nuts.I don't buy cheap crap & watch it round over after 4 uses.
 
Sorry for the above post.I didn't mean to come off as an ass,I just get frustrated at not being able to drive for the past 30 yrs.(almost).
I've got 3 questions for you Remington gurus.
1) What color red should I use to repaint my SL-9?
2) How many DL should there be on a 16 in.3/8 pitch chain for an SL-9?
3) I did the zip tie on the bottom of the plunger valve & the saw is still sucking bar oil into the exhaust.What do I do now?
 
Sorry for the above post.I didn't mean to come off as an ass,I just get frustrated at not being able to drive for the past 30 yrs.(almost).
I've got 3 questions for you Remington gurus.
1) What color red should I use to repaint my SL-9?
2) How many DL should there be on a 16 in.3/8 pitch chain for an SL-9?
3) I did the zip tie on the bottom of the plunger valve & the saw is still sucking bar oil into the exhaust.What do I do now?

Not being mobile really, really sucks. [emoji90]

Just plug off the line from the crank case and call it a manual oiler saw.[emoji106]
 
Not being mobile really, really sucks. [emoji90]

Just plug off the line from the crank case and call it a manual oiler saw.[emoji106]
I don't mean to sound stupid here,but isn't that what the zip tie was supposed to do?I need to know where the line is that I need to plug off?Is that the only oil line there is on the saw?Do I need to pull off the stator plate again along with the points?
 
I decided to get rid of the anteater handle on my 770G. That handle makes it pretty well useless with a straight bar.
 

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