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Remington Chainsaws(including Mall chainsaws)

67L36Driver

67L36Driver

Tree Freak
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Except the SL5. The SL5 is a Logmaster type.

The SL5 (82cc) and GL 7 (105cc) are direct decedents of the Silver and Golden Logmaster which are just a slight variation of the Mall GP (general purpose).

That what Remington started with when DuPont bought Mall Tool Co..
 
edju1958

edju1958

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I'll try soaking with some kerosene in it first,it might break up the blockage.I took the plunger out & sprayed some WD40 in it & it pumped it through after I put the plunger back in.If the kerosene soak doesn't work,then I guess I'll tear it down over the winter & see what's up.It's a dang nice running saw now that I got spark back on it.Thanks for the help guys!
 
edju1958

edju1958

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You guys aren't going to believe this,but it looks like the chainsaw gods have smiled upon me in a kind of weird way.The 1st SL4 that I'd had no oiling issues with just started working when I fired it up today.I put a different recoil on it to see if the switch was good & take the recoil back off & put it back on the PL4.
Here's the twist - the 2nd SL4 that I got has a badly scored piston in it,so much so that it wouldn't even fire because of low compression.I've got 3 options here,I can use the saw for parts for the other SL4,I can put a new piston kit in it for a Homie SXL (right Poge?),or I can get a new bored over short block in it if I can get it at a good price.
 
edju1958

edju1958

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Has anyone ever heard of an SL10K?I looked on Acres' site & he has an SL10 & an SL10A listed,but no SL10K.I know it's a K because I saw it clearly on the clutch cover.
 
Dave86

Dave86

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I have a bunch of NOS cylinders with a 1.91 bore. Looking at Acres, that bore dimension was used by the PL5 and SL11. The IPL drawings show that they look the same, but have different part numbers.

Anybody know how to tell them apart?
 

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PogoInTheWoods

PogoInTheWoods

Don't forget about the alligators...
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Reportedly in the Area
I can put a new piston kit in it for a Homie SXL (right Poge?),
Carl is who turned me on to the compatibility there, but yes. I was able to clean up the cylinder on the one I rebuilt and I got a Proline piston kit rom Sawzilla. A very nice kit for $30 and I would recommend it.
 
edju1958

edju1958

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I can get a short block for a PL5 for $125 that's been bored over (I don't know how much over),& has had an oversized piston & rings put in by Remington back in the day.My question is : will a short block for a PL5 (65cc) fit into a SL4 (59cc)?The guy who has the short block says it's stamped 59cc which is contradictory to what it should be.


The other question I have pertains to an SL10 that I just got,it's not an SL10A that I can see,manual oiler only.The plunger was seized up,but I took it out & got it working again with a couple drops of light oil on the plunger rod.I put it back in & put oil in the tank & began pumping the plunger.I could hear it trying to pump oil at the bar pad,but then the plunger wouldn't depress anymore.I took the plunger back out & put some light oil in it & put the plunger back in & it's "stuck",it won't oil.There's supposed to be something under the spring ?If so it's stuck.Right now I'm in the process of trying to get spark on it,but it won't do much good if it doesn't have an operational oiler.
 
edju1958

edju1958

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Can anyone tell me what the letter K styands for on the saw?This is an SL10K,not SL10A.I do think it has an automatic oiler though.I put kerosene in the oil tank hoping it'd dissolve any blockages there may be of old sludged oil.The kerosene comes out at the bar bad,but it kinda oozes out,it doesn't shoot out like it should,IMO.
I did get spark on the saw yesterday & it'd run on a prime,but wouldn't pull fuel on it's own.I pulled the carb & understood why,the metering diaphragm was like cardboard.I rebuilt the carb last night & hope to put it on the saw today.The saw has great compression,& it came with a 1/4 in.pitch chain.I'll change the sprocket to a 3/8 pitch & put a different bar & chain on as well.
 
edju1958

edju1958

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Well mine is definitely an SL10K according to the decal on the clutch cover & the ID tag on the recoil.
I managed to get the saw running today & it runs very nicely indeed.I had to make a few minor carb adjustments & it runs great.I had a helluva time getting spark on it.I put a new condenser on & it crapped out almost immediately.Then I tried a chip.There's absolutely no room on the interior to mount a chip,so I had the chip hanging on the outside of the saw.Apparently the recoil cover either severed the wire inside the insulation,or it cut through & grounded it out.I found another condenser that doesn't belong in the saw & figured I had nothing to lose at that point.Lo & behold the saw had spark & it fired right up.The saw calls for a Prestolite 2-5058 & the condenser I put in is an FWM1083.
I found that VE Petersen has about 60 of the correct condensers,but they're old as dirt.I've found that condensers can go bad by just sitting on a shelf.
 
edju1958

edju1958

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I got the last SL9 I had on hand running today too.When I tried starting it yesterday it would only run on a prime,so I pulled the carb & put a kit in it.When I started the saw I thought it had a crank seal issue because of the very high idle.After further investigation I found that the saw will idle down to an acceptable level,but only by pulling back on the throttle trigger.I'm going to pull the handle apart to see what's going on inside.It's possible that the throttle linkage got bent out of shape somehow.Maybe someone got too aggressive when pulling off the carb.(not me I assure you,Lol)
 
edju1958

edju1958

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I brought the PL4 Agway Special up from the back barn to put the recoil back on it that I'd borrowed a couple weeks ago to put on an SL4.I tried starting the saw & it wouldn't start.I pulled the plug & it was wet,so it wasn't firing under compression.I put a new plug in it & it fired right up.
I also noticed the muffler wasn't quite right,so pulled that off & found the upper boss for the muffler stud to be stripped out.Normally I'd put a helicoil in,but didn't know if I had the right size,so I mixed up some JB Weld & put that in the boss.Then I put the muffler back on & it seems to be holding up just fine.The last thing I did was put a felling spike on the saw from a parts SL4.
 
edju1958

edju1958

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I've got a few things going on with the Remingtons.I got a PL5 today & it's in great shape.It has a new fuel filter & awesome spark.I put some fuel in the cylinder & pulled on it & not even a pop.I pulled the muffler & the P&C are in great shape with no scoring.I did a compression check & only got 60 psi.Could the rings just be stuck,or will it need to be pulled down & put new rings in it?Are rings for this model available anywhere?Homelite had a model XL-400 that was the same C.I.D.
I also got what I believe to be a Woodsman,which is the same displacement as the PL4 or SL4 (59cc).The engine was seized when I got it,the recoil I believe has a broken spring,the carb & reed valve were a mess,the fuel tank was full of silt & has a hole in the top about the size of my thumb,I think the clutch is seized,& the oiler doesn't work.Otherwise it's in good shape,Lol.I got the engine freed somewhat,but when I turn the flywheel it gets to about TDC & won't go any further.I don't want to force it & break something internally.The P&C have no scoring,but when I took the muffler off there was a lot of black powdery silt in there.I cleaned it all out & then put some Liquid Wrench with silicone in the cylinder & let it soak for a bit before I broke it loose (somewhat).I'd really like to get this old girl up & running,but I know it's going to take a lot of work.You all will probably tell me it's not worth it,just use it as a parts saw.

I also go my last SL9 that I've been waiting on for about 3 weeks.The recoil need to be cleaned up & now it's working great.It has good compression & no spark.It's missing the outer bar plate & the air filter cover.I'll see about getting spark on it tomorrow.

Edit:the Homie XL-400 piston won't work in the PL5,almost 2mm.difference in the bores.
 
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