That's what I believe I have here is radial play in the needle bearings on the crankshaft.I'm not talking about having the connecting rod slide from side to side on the crankshaft as Carl states below.
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Remington Chainsaws(including Mall chainsaws)
- Thread starter wampum
- Start date
OK guys,here's a thought - the piston & cylinder from a Homie SXL swap over onto the Remy SL4.Since finding a cylinder gasket at a normal price is pretty much out of the question,will a cylinder gasket from the SXL fit onto the cylinder & crankcase of the SL4?I'd make my own,but kinda tough when the cylinder studs are in the way.
Yukon Stihl
ArboristSite Guru
Make your own gasket is the quickest,instead of waiting for one in the mail,then you can make the thickness that gets you optimum squish
Or wait and get the SLX one and see if it will work.
Or wait and get the SLX one and see if it will work.
OK,there's another term I don't understand.What is squish?I haven't worked in a machine shop for the past 40 yrs.& I'm not an engineer.I'm just a dumb oaf who's trying to do his first ever piston replacement.
Like I said in my previous post,I'd make my own gasket,but how can I do that with cylinder studs in the way.Don't tell me to take them out either.
67L36Driver
Tree Freak
Piston crown to combustion chamber roof clearance.
‘Squish’ is term used as a short version on saw forums.
I’ve never liked it as it is misleading at best.
‘Squish’ is term used as a short version on saw forums.
I’ve never liked it as it is misleading at best.
PogoInTheWoods
Don't forget about the alligators...
Refers to what happens to solder shoved into the plug hole when the piston comes up against it and the bottom edge of the combustion chamber. The resulting flatness of the solder is measured to determine the clearance between the top edge of the piston and the top edge of the cylinder/bottom edge of the combustion chamber -- commonly referred to as the "squish band" and usually a distinctly visible band at the bottom of the combustion chamber/top of the cylinder wall.
fossil
Eh?
Use the cylinder base as a template to make the gasket.
OK,my frustration is slacking off a bit now.Since I have 2 crankcases & only need one,I pulled the cylinder studs out of the Woodsman crankcase & I can lay my gasket material over it to make one.Now the thing is the original gasket was much thicker than FelPro gasket material is.Should I double the FelPro material up?I have 1/32 & 1/64 material.Maybe put a layer of each & glue them together?That'd give me 3/64 in.thick gasket.I also have a SXL gasket coming to compare the thicknesses.
I also checked the radial play & it doesn't have any as far as I could detect.Maybe I'm being overly-cautious,but I'd rather be safe than sorry.
I also checked the radial play & it doesn't have any as far as I could detect.Maybe I'm being overly-cautious,but I'd rather be safe than sorry.
That's fine for making the bottom half of the gasket.The gasket for the SL4 is like the SXL in that it goes from the cylinder up to the reed portion of the crankcase.
Thank you for explaining that to me Poge.Now I'm not quite as dumb of an oaf as I was before.
fossil
Eh?
I make those a 2 piece gasket. No need for it to be one piece.
67L36Driver
Tree Freak
Note: When you go significantly thinner on the cylinder base gasket, the third hole in the magneto will be slightly out of line with the tapped hole in the cylinder.
Just egg the hole a bit with a round file.
You will see what I mean when you get that far.
Just egg the hole a bit with a round file.
You will see what I mean when you get that far.
If I go with a thinner gasket will that increase the compression,or not enough to say so?I've got pieces of the old gasket so I can use a calipers to find the thickness it was.As I said before,I've got a gasket for a SXL on the way.If it fits OK I'll use it as a template to make a couple more to have on hand.If it doesn't work then I'll make my own.
I thought about doing that Tim as I had a SXL that only needed the top portion for the handle & reed valve replaced on a saw I did 1 1/2 yrs.ago.
I got another SL4 delivered today & saw that the recoil rope was hanging out.I figured it just needed to be rewound,but when I rewound it there was no tension.I pulled the recoil apart & the first thing I found was the washer & brake spring were put in wrong.Next thing I found was there was no recoil spring! It's a good thing I've got one on hand that I got from Bob J.
I'm still waiting on the SXL gasket,that's OK it gives me time to get caught up on the other saws I've been working on too.
I got the so called "short block" from Mr.Parrish yesterday & it wasn't a short block at all,it was a piston kit & a cylinder.I called him today to do some biotching & he tried telling me that he never said it was a short block.He did in fact refer to it as a short block several times & not once did he ever say it was just a piston & cylinder.He also has the same for an SL10 & wants me to help him move it.No way will I help him do anything after his crooked deeds.There was/is an SL11 on eBay that the seller wants $50 for,but I contacted him & asked to take the muffler off & take a pic of the piston & cylinder.He never responded & the listing ran out & he had to relist it.Too bad for him.
I put together my last SL9 that I was waiting on parts for (air filter cover & bar plates).I put a 16 in.bar & chain on & went to tighten the chain tensioner & it was seized in place.I put some lube on it & got it freed up,but then I put oil in the tank & went to oil the chain & the oiler would only work when the saw was on it's side.I let it set overnight & put more oil in it & it seemed to work better today.
After I got the recoil working for the last SL4 I bought the saw runs great! I had to change the spur sprocket as the one that was on the saw was shot.
I got the so called "short block" from Mr.Parrish yesterday & it wasn't a short block at all,it was a piston kit & a cylinder.I called him today to do some biotching & he tried telling me that he never said it was a short block.He did in fact refer to it as a short block several times & not once did he ever say it was just a piston & cylinder.He also has the same for an SL10 & wants me to help him move it.No way will I help him do anything after his crooked deeds.There was/is an SL11 on eBay that the seller wants $50 for,but I contacted him & asked to take the muffler off & take a pic of the piston & cylinder.He never responded & the listing ran out & he had to relist it.Too bad for him.
I put together my last SL9 that I was waiting on parts for (air filter cover & bar plates).I put a 16 in.bar & chain on & went to tighten the chain tensioner & it was seized in place.I put some lube on it & got it freed up,but then I put oil in the tank & went to oil the chain & the oiler would only work when the saw was on it's side.I let it set overnight & put more oil in it & it seemed to work better today.
After I got the recoil working for the last SL4 I bought the saw runs great! I had to change the spur sprocket as the one that was on the saw was shot.