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Repaired Splitter question

Discussion in 'Firewood, Heating and Wood Burning Equipment' started by John Hudson, Jul 9, 2019.

  1. John Hudson

    John Hudson ArboristSite Lurker

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    I've got 23 ton Champion splitter. Last weekend while busting some oak, a round was stuck on the wedge and came back and ended up crushing the valve that sits on the hydraulic cylinder. The double male 5/8 "(possibly 3/4" OD) nipple broke off flush with the cylinder. The valve assembly was OK. I was able to get the broke end out of the cylinder.

    Here's the question, I went to a hydraulic repair shop and got a double male nipple that the shop uses on heavy equipment repairs. The salesman stated it was rated at 3000psi. But our concern was when we compared the ID. The one that broke was thicker wall and 3/8" ID and the new one was 1/2" ID. I went to another hydraulic shop and they used the same type nipple I had picked up but was informed the pressure of 3000psi was probably OK but the different ID may be for flow rather than pressure. I got home and put it all back together, everything seemed OK but I haven't split anything yet. The speed of the ram seemed OK too.

    Is there any concern with the nipple I installed?
     
  2. ChoppyChoppy

    ChoppyChoppy Addicted to ArboristSite

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    I doubt it'll be an issue.

    Mine broke similarly, we replaced all the parts with off the shelf fittings and a rubber hose vs the metal OEM tube.
     
  3. NSMaple1

    NSMaple1 Addicted to ArboristSite

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    If I'm understanding right - is this nipple between the cylinder, and the control valve? And the valve sits on top of the nipple which in turn sits on top of the cylinder? (When horizontal).

    IMO that is kind of a hokey setup to start with, but it seems to be done a lot these days. And I think it would be subject to more stress than just the hydraulic pressure & related ratings. I would be leery about going with something that is thinner than what was on it - it would see a lot of flexing stress just with normal operation of moving the lever back & forth. Leery about that whole design, actually - controls should be mounted on mounting brackets. Again IMO.
     
  4. John Hudson

    John Hudson ArboristSite Lurker

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    Thanks Choppy.. The guy at the parts counter was pretty confident it was OK but now I'm concerned with the stress idea that's listed in the next comments. Thanks
     
  5. John Hudson

    John Hudson ArboristSite Lurker

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    Well you gave me another issue to worry about! I agree it's not the best setup and never thought about the stress issue until you brought it up. What I will do is try and find a OEM part that will at least bring it back to factory specs. I may have a mount fab'd and mount it and redo with a hose and eleminate the nipple.. As I'm typing I already have an idea. Thanks for the heads up about the stress issue
     
  6. rancher2

    rancher2 ArboristSite Guru

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    John
    I have a buddy that his splitter was set up like yours and loans it out to a lot of family members and that fitting was always getting broken off. A couple years ago he brought it out and I made a bracket and moved the valve out of harms way and ran hoses form the valve to the cylinder and he hasn't had any issues since.
     
  7. JoshNY

    JoshNY ArboristSite Member

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    If you decide to fix it using the original part from Champion, you can order the part yourself direct from Champion.
    I have one of their generators and needed a part, called their 1800 number, and they shipped it direct to me, they have a parts warehouse in California.
    They are normally pretty reasonable on parts prices.
    I wouldn't blame you if you wanted to make a bracket to mount the valve and rubber hose it instead of the current setup.

    Sent from my SM-S727VL using Tapatalk
     
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  8. John Hudson

    John Hudson ArboristSite Lurker

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    Rancher, I was thinking today about this and how I could mount a bracket. I first thought of a "bridge" type that would go up and over the cylinder but that would be too much then I though about a flat plate off the side of the beam and run a HP hose up to the cylinder. That's the simplest I can thank of but it would be hard to operate the valve from both sides like it is right now. I'll look into this and look for other mounting ideas. Thanks
     
  9. John Hudson

    John Hudson ArboristSite Lurker

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    Josh I'll go ahead and get a OEM part from Champion and I'm looking int moving the valve. Thanks
     
  10. rancher2

    rancher2 ArboristSite Guru

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    With his I used a piece of 1 1/2 inch square tubing with a flat plate on top so you can run the valve from both sides and its up out of harms way of a block hitting it.
     
  11. John Hudson

    John Hudson ArboristSite Lurker

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    so the square tubing welded to the top of the beam and the flat was like a platform?
     
  12. rancher2

    rancher2 ArboristSite Guru

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    I welded the tubing to the side of the beam and the flat plate was on top of the tube as a platform to mount the valve on. Sorry I don't have a picture.
     
  13. John Hudson

    John Hudson ArboristSite Lurker

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    I got the ideal..I found a pic of a spillter were the valve was mounted under a flat plate with a slot for the handle and the plate was fastened to the beam some how. But it looked to low from the other side for me. But I can see how yours might work for me. I'm trying to visualize the hoses to eliminate replacing them, only making the one up.. something to look at. I have so 2" tubing but that's probably to big. Weekend project!!
     
  14. kevin j

    kevin j Addicted to ArboristSite

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    I welded some angles to the crossbar parts of some truck exhaust clamps (ubolts and crossbar thing) and bolted valve to the angles. You might do it with flat plate, bolted to u bolts, and bolt valve to that.
     

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  15. John Hudson

    John Hudson ArboristSite Lurker

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    Kevin you gave me a idea that may be the easiest and I say easiest since I am not a good welder. If I was a bad welder that would be an improvement. But with your idea I could use the clamps around the cylinder and using caution on overtightening, mount a flat plate using the 4 legs of the clamps. Use the 2 screws, they look semi HD, on top of the valve to mount under the plate. I should be able to place the valve in a position to make the current hoses work OK. I'll have to get a short hose made to run to the piston.. Thanks, I'll let you know if it'll work
     

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