Repairing/Modding a MS460

[csmitty]

Hey guys, first post here along with first saw, though not new to them. I picked up a used 460, and 06 that had a bad mix and scored the piston and lightly got the cylinder walls. So planning on replacing those. Are the big bore kits from Baileys worth the money or should just go with Stihl replacements or like a Weisco 52mm?

Next the porting. I've read on the muffler porting, but is there also some cylinder porting that can be done? I guess maybe I'm getting the same muffler mod confused when I hear porting with out the muffler mentioned. Mine is the non DP. So was thinking of just doing it myself since I have a TIG for some baffling.

Any other mods that can be done while its torn apart? He said it probably less than 50 hrs when it got tore up. Been sitting for 2 years. but had all the fluids drained. Be worth it to check the vacuum/pressure?

Thanks!!

Some pics for your viewing pleasure

 

[greg986547]

hey csmitty.... not sure why they stuck you in modded saws....you wont get much lovin here... these seem like pretty general repair questions you have about your 460....

I would first try to clean up your stock cyl with muriatic acid, put stock piston n rings back in, deck the cyl to .020 squish, open up that muffler with your die grinder or dremmel. 85% to 100% of exhaust port size if you're still using the spark arrestor screen should do the trick....you will need to richen up your high speed screw after doing the muff mod!!! these changes will give you more power and a cooler running saw...

If your stock cyl is shot, ive had really good luck with the baileys BB 460 kits.... good "work saw" torque

 

[csmitty]

Yea, I was searching and a thread I found was in here so posted it. I did another in chainsaw, though not much action there either it seems.

I looked at the cylinder again and i think the grooves i felt were raised so it may just be AL deposit on it. Where would you suggest getting the muriatic acid from? I think I'd get the meator piston and rings to put back in. As far as decking would that be the traditional way and mill the cylinder are getting a thinner gasket? haven't read to much on that yet. Planning on the porting and modding the muffler. Would it be good to get rid of all that inside the muffler or just enough not to redirect the flow? Might drop down to a 24" bar as well.

 

[oscar4883]

If your old cylinder will clean-up I would put a Meteor piston in it from one of the site sponsors. OEM is great but very spendy. I have put many Meteors in 200T's that get hammered on all day and they hold up real well. If the cylinder is toast do as greg says and try the BB from Baileys. I run one on my 460 and it rips. Tons of torque. Vac/Pressure tests are essential so you can find out what roached the original top end.

 

[angelo c]

Looking at your piston would tell me that the bearings must be gone through closely. I don't see even wear across the exhaust port/skirt area, its all on one side. Im thinking that piston is rocking oddly. Hope I'm wrong. as Oscar said above pressure test to seek out the the culprit. How about a shot of the cyl. what does the intake side look like.

 

[csmitty]

Here's the cylinder

It feels mostly raised to me, I haven't had much time to fool with it yet though.

Another of piston

The bearings seem ok to me. No signs of damage on the wrist pin one. That one would be easy enough to replace though. Rod bearing seems about average.

 

[angelo c]

Smitty,
I can't tell if that side of the piston is the same side as the other photo. Cyl looks typical for a lean seize. With that much transfer I might want to clean out the case. replacing the seals would be a major step in doing so for me. once the seals are out you can have a good look at the bearings. What's the long term goal for this saw?
if you grab both sides of the crank do you feel any rock at all? assuming you have the clutch and the flywheel off already.

you might want to repost this up in the "chainsaw" section as the big dogs hang out there more. Pretty saw otherwise.

 

[csmitty]

Thanks, I did post this in the Chainsaw section after I realized I had it in the hotsaw one. I did a google search and it brought me to one in the hot saw so I posted under there as well not realizing. Though haven't had much response over there.

I have the clutch cover off, flywheel is still on. I haven't had much time to mess with it other wise. Long term goals are just a dependable home/land owner saw. Maybe throw it in the back of the Jeep when hit trails. Just a good overall workhorse.

 

[angelo c]

Thanks, I did post this in the Chainsaw section after I realized I had it in the hotsaw one. I did a google search and it brought me to one in the hot saw so I posted under there as well not realizing. Though haven't had much response over there.

I have the clutch cover off, flywheel is still on. I haven't had much time to mess with it other wise. Long term goals are just a dependable home/land owner saw. Maybe throw it in the back of the Jeep when hit trails. Just a good overall workhorse.

a 460 is a great saw. I would want it to be set up correct if I had plans to keep her. Look into a dealer and have him replace the bearings and seals figuring about a $100 should do it or give you his oppinion on either. 'nuther 75 or so in an aftermarket piston and replacing all the hoses and fuel lines and you got your work saw for the next 20 years. Next time before you take it down, find out why you are taking it down....pressure-vac ...pressure-vac rinse repeat...

 

[csmitty]

Yea, a vac/press test would have been good. It already had the cylinder off when I got it. Are there any special tools to replacing the seals? Since I usually like working on things myself thats why I figured i'd take on something like this. I suppose I could take it by just to get an opinion on the bearings. The guy I got it from figured around 50hrs on it. Obviously nothing concrete on that though and he had a couple other saws as well. Was just retiring and didn't want to take it with him.

 

[angelo c]

The clutch side comes off pretty easy. I watched Albert do one for me and he just drove a punch into the metal and set a screw just enough into the seal to pull it out. The Flywheel side is tiny. I haven't tried to do that side yet. I have a case I will try soon though. lots of guys use picks and lots use a Listle oil seal remover...search on here for it and you'll get to brad snellings video which is a great example of how to do it with the Stihl tool. Shouldn't be too hard to throw it back together and pressure/vac test. seal it up with some old rubber tire sections behind the muffler and carb and pump her up. I test everything even brand new hoses. Don't cost a thing once I bought the mity vac. I am often surprised where I find leaks in hoses.

 

[csmitty]

Well, reviving the dead here. Its only taken 5 years and a few moves to finally get the MS460 back together. I got it all laid out in April and started reassembling.

I got the case splitting tools from Stihl and got OEM bearings and seals for the crank and wrist pin bearing. Got all new OEM fuel/impulse hoses, fuel filter and related gaskets. Stock cylinder cleaned up well and used a ball hone, though I realized after I used silicon carbide instead of aluminum oxide for the hone. So hopefully the plating is still ok. Can't do much about it now. New Meteor Piston. Got new diaphragms for the carb and blew out the passages. Used the Mightyvac to pressure and vacuum test and it had a slight drop on pressure side. Vac was rock solid. Top'd it off with a HD2 filter.

Went to start it up for the first time and she was all ready. Took a few tries with the choke on and it came to life. Then went to hit the throttle and realized I didn't have a throttle rod. Doh! Then couldn't find it anywhere so had to order one and wait for it to come in. In the meantime got a 20" bar and RS chain. Hindsight probably should have got with the 25" but oh well. Once I got the throttle rod in she ran like a champ and tuned up the carb. Its all stock and will probably get some time on it before waking it up some more. Even stock its been tearing through some wood. Granted I haven't pushed it to hard just yet. I still need to cleanup the 32" bar and sharpen its chain. Looked it over and its actually in pretty good shape, might just need some touch up. Just haven't needed it yet.

It was a fun experience getting it back together and always looking out for others that need repair. I'll keep this one since I have an attachment to it. I have dads busted MS290 next which I just need to hone out. Got the AO hone yesterday. Going with mostly aftermarket parts to see what happens as OEM would push repair costs to high. I would like to repair and sell some pro saws though to help pay for the tools! But man they sure make the job alot easier and most are reasonably priced vs spending time thinking/fabricating.