Repower an old log Splitter

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rdh1223

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Hello all, new to the site and was hoping someone could point me in the right direction.

I have an old log splitter (it doesn't appear to have any markings but was told it came from Northern Tool).

Briggs and Stratton Model 190432 6035 01
8hp - horizontal shaft.
Long story short, engine seized, my fault (tighten the oil drain plug next time dooofus)

Anyway I would like to purchase an engine that is plug and play so to speak. I've searched the google and read a few threads on this site and cant seem to get any good info on a direct replacement even on B/S site. They apparently dont cross reference that far back. I cant seem to find out alot about the engine I have either, no spec sheet, everybody seems to have parts diagrams but I cant find the shaft size anywhere..

I'm not opposed to the 8hp predator motor but I know nothing about how to make it work with my splitter, if it will fit if the shaft is correct...

Any guidance would be appreciated
 
Nearest Northern tool is in Virginia :(
Great idea otherwise, maybe tractor supply?

I'll disassemble tmrw morning and take some measurements.
 
honda gx will last a long time and start when you pull the cord
i've got one of the old briggs on my old splitter and i'm a pulling pro by the time it starts
after wood shed is full my splitter is getting a honda gx donated from an old pressure washer
 
Assuming you've got some room to work with the things I'd be looking at:
1. Same mounting pattern for the coupling adapter (bracket covering the coupling) connecting the engine to the pump. This would be key for me so I didn't have to change the bracket.
2. Hopefully the same mounting pattern for the engine. If not you should be able to drill some new holes in the mounting plate. Most pumps are only supported by the bracket so height shouldn't be a big issue.
3. Shaft size and projection. If diameter is different you can get a new Lovejoy half for the new engine.

Attached is the crankshaft info for your series engine.
 

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Sounds like you have zero resources (or desire) to drill holes in metal to change mounting pattern or other slight splitter revisions?

If true, or if no access to a power outlet, will not offer any suggestions about installing electric motor instead of gas engine.
 
Sounds like you have zero resources (or desire) to drill holes in metal to change mounting pattern or other slight splitter revisions?

If true, or if no access to a power outlet, will not offer any suggestions about installing electric motor instead of gas engine.

@ArtB I'm not sure how you concluded the OP has zero resources(or desire) to drill holes? He started out looking for a direct replacement but that didn't flag for me as unable to make modifications.

I'd like to see your suggestions on an electric motor replacement. I've also got an 8 HP Briggs powered unit but might be interested in converting. Interesting option.
 
honda gx will last a long time and start when you pull the cord
i've got one of the old briggs on my old splitter and i'm a pulling pro by the time it starts
after wood shed is full my splitter is getting a honda gx donated from an old pressure washer
Ever try an electric drill with a home made attachment in the chuck,
we used to have one on a brigs lawnmower, 3 inches of 1inch box with a bolt welded into
one end for the chick to grab, it was quicker than finding a new recoil, no internet
in those days so nothing turning up at your door, you fixed things with what you had.

The newer Brigs are not as well made, their industrial ones seem better though,
a lot of plastic has made its way inside them, including the Honda GX.
 
@ArtB
I'd like to see your suggestions on an electric motor replacement. I've also got an 8 HP Briggs powered unit but might be interested in converting. Interesting option.

I replaced an 13 HP HondaGX390 on a M-T-M 4000 psi, 4 GPM pressure washer with a 5 HP 284T frame electric motor I had sitting in the garage.
Yes, I had another application for the Honda, and wanted a quiet pressure washer for around the house.

Now you ask, being numerically power savvy, how could a 5 HP elect motor replace a 13 HP Honda engine, and considering that 4000 psi at 4 GPM really does require a full 10 HP?
So;
Elec motor rated 5 HP, 25A, 240 Vac, 10 HP would pull near 50 Amps!!! - simple - cool it! Added furnace blower and ducting to cool the motor, runs all day pulling 49 Amps and pressure washer at full capability. M-TM pump only corner shown at bottom of pic. .

One could do the same with a log splitter. Nice an quiet log splitter then also.
For your 8 HP splitter, probably an inexpensive '5' HP HarbFrt 54 frame motor (which is actually only a true 3 HP) with a furnace blower to cool it would work. Not 100% sure that the motor flux has enough torque margin on a HF elec motor though. Motor HP is proportional to current, but there is a limit to how well a HF motor can be cooled with forced air. Max torque is proportional to the motor magnetic core area, have not calculated the max torque for a HF motor. You can always adjust pulley sizes to accommodate maximum power to the hyd pump.

I have found that even having used hearing muffs and/or earplug for the last 55 years, I still have hearing loss. When I'm near an electrical plug, even just use an electric chain saw these days for stuff under 8 " or so. Even with muffs, to me 2 cycle and small 4 cycle engine noise is irritating. BTW, hate the neighbor's leaf blower!

10HP pressure washer.jpg
 
Dismounted old B/S yesterday and it looks like shaft on predator 8hp is about 1/4 inch shorter or so. I dont think this matters....

Hieght if shaft is about the same, diameter same.

Not sure about the mounting bolt pattern yet gotta get to HF and take a look at the new motor bolt pattern, same for the bolt pattern where the lovejoy things mount

Ran into 1 problem that I'm hoping to solve tmrw the 1/2 coupling on the old motor is stuck on the shaft because the set screw stripped on me, easy out tmrw morning hopefully. It's a lovejoy L 095-1, which I cant seem to locate new anywhere, is there a retailer that sells this in store or am I going to have to order a used set on ebay? If I cant get the old one off....

Thanks for all the replies so far !
 
When you are looking for a replacement motor Take Notice of where the exhaust is pointing. I had a 5 hp. B/S that a hired hand mangled with a skidsteer (Long and StOOpid story) The original motor had the exhaust pointing at the operator but I was so used to it never thought about it until I put a Honda 5 hp and the exhaust was 180 degrees different. Much NICErer
As for the Love Joy Go to a Bearing , Belt , Industrial power drive kind of warehouse or Graingers will most likely have one If it is an oddball brand have the pump side half off and with you and replace all three pieces (if Spider is different )
 
Is it possible to have one of these couplings that is only 2 piece? In the pic below I have the 2 top pieces but not the lower
 

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Is it possible to have one of these couplings that is only 2 piece? In the pic below I have the 2 top pieces but not the lower

All couplings I've ever seen have the insert (lower part of your picture). I went through the stuck setscrew mess a couple months ago. Had to drag mine off with a gear puller, never could get the set screw loose. Little heat and lots of force! Should be able to find the coupling half at any good farm store. Got mine at Rural King. L-095 is pretty common (the 1 indicates 1")

Shorter shaft shouldn't matter. Match up to coupler is key, engine mounting pattern is easy to adapt.
 
You can make yourself a bottom piece out a piece of nylon or polycarbonate stock. In the old days, would even make that piece out of 4 or 5 thickensses of shoe leather riveted together.
 
Derail on the coupler Years ago I saw a portable welder driven by a maverick 250 inline six with the automatic transmission attached. For a coupler he had a 1/2" cable through 2 plates with 2 holes torched through each plate . The cable was clamped between the 2 plates (a clamp on each side for balance) and there was 4" or 5 " between the 2 plates and the cable flexed to take up the slack. Primitive and rough but it ran so smooth. I don't remember how he did the slide yoke and still wonder what would happen if something went haywire.
 
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