Restoring a rocked chain

[Philbert]

I guess to make each raker .025" to the exact cutter would involve some sort of different jig to make it efficient to zero in on 1 cutter:raker at a time without completely wasting time...

There are a few threads here in tools for setting depth gauges, as well as ‘progressive’ depth gauges.

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/depth-gauge-tools-for-saw-chain.279374/
Philbert

 

[Ted Jenkins]

For the amount of work it takes to pull a cord out of the woods, I know $600 isnt that much. We're allegedly $220USD ($280CAD) for a cord in the interior of BC where wood is plenty. I say allegedly because I havent ever picked up the phone and made an order or boughten a cord. That price figure is as of 5 minutes ago punching "firewood" into kijiji in my area. You sure as heck wont find me out there in the woods felling and bucking cords to sell em for $280. Maybe theres more to it that I'm missing (quality of wood and etc.) But I'm not that experienced at the whole deal. I just figured the $600 USD range is getting closer to the it'd be worth doing to sell at that price point.

Threads getting a bit off topic but thats alright. I'm interested in the info of demographics.

As for something related to the sharpening of chains... I'm just using the flat style depth gauge with the slot in the center to make my .025 depth. I understand that it is basing it off of 2 or 3 cutters height to make the slot index on the raker it's filing. If the 3 cutters are at different lenghts it makes the tool able to rock either up or down, depending on if it's pushed down on the forward tooth or down on the rearward tooth. That would then make the specific tooth youre setting the depth for either a smidge deeper than .025 or a smidge shallower. And so on and so forth and you end up with rakers that are inconsistent to the actual cutter it's gauging.

Does that variance on either side of the .025 tool matter when dealing with cutters of various lengths?

I guess to make each raker .025" to the exact cutter would involve some sort of different jig to make it efficient to zero in on 1 cutter:raker at a time without completely wasting time...

Whats the authourity on that?

Husq you are very correct in pulling a cord of wood out of the woods takes quite a bit of hard work. I am not sure what part of woods is in your neighborhood, but am very familar with BC and the wood that is there. What I have been refering to is premium Oak which is more rare than most other species. In BC there are mostly soft woods including several types of Fir which is not all bad. If a OP would would cut some soft wood that is dry and seasoned and be able to it straight away to the customer with out storing it then that would be doable. Here Oak is the most prefered wood of all with many other hardwood available, but nothing compares to Oak and thus the higher prices. At the moment thare are an increasing amount of short term rentals which is driving market value quite a bit. Some people who have weekend homes or rentals must have wood for their homes no matter what. I sell soft woods too which is up about 50%.

As far as rocked cutting teeth go there are a few ways to address these issues. If hand filing you must file the cutters properly and then file rakers properly also. A good rule of thumb is to file opposing cutter to some what match. If using an electric grinder one must address just the damaged cutters both damaged and opposing cutter to come close to some consistency. Or set the grinder to sharpen all links the same thus grinding down all undamaged cutters. Or remove damanged links toreplace with similar worn links. Thanks

 

[Square Ground]

The bottoms of the cutters in the pics are pretty beaten up. This can cause wear on the inside of the bar grooves (chain not running evenly on bar rails). Cut your losses and get another chain imho