rig guy wirestops

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winchman

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i figure this has been covered somewhere on here, but i searched and found no matches.
does anyone on here have real experience with the rig guy wire stops? our company was thinking of switching from conventional cables to this system, but of course we would love outside input before we dive in.
we do about six cabling jobs a year, and they always take so long just to install one little dinky wire. almost disappointing when you get to the ground and see one steel cable up there after a couple hours of hard work. plus the hazard of dropped tools, thimbles, cutting the cable in the tree, all would be lessened if we could utilize this other system.
another thing: i googled for this system and couldn't find the website. any help would be appreciated.
 
Rig Guy Wirestops?

I am not familiar with Rig Guy Wirestops... post a link?


I am however very familiar with Tree Grips and now use them almost exclusively to attach my cables to the eyebolts in my cabling systems.

You must be extremely careful to ensure that the tree grip used is matched to the cable size being installed, most tree grips are color coded for a specific cable size.

I've found that using tree grips in my cabling systems dramaticly increases the speed of installation as well as the ease.

See the link below and scroll down to the end for tree grips, as you'll see they're cheap and very reliable if installed properly.

http://www.karlkuemmerling.com/prod05.htm

Work Safe get a cabling quiver!

jomoco
 
Just my 2 cents. I have no hands on knowledge of this product. But I have watched the advertisements emerge over the last couple of years. I dont like the approach. The reason i dont like it is because the cable anchor is on the back side of the tree. With j-lags or bolts the tree can close around these as they are static. With wirestops the cable runs thru the tree and as the tree moves the cables could saw on the living wood and not allow this wound to close. In my opinion the odds of decay setting in to the heartwood would be greatly enhanced thus creating a cavity.
Just because its easier and cheaper doesnt mean its better for the tree. Again just my opinion.
 
. With wirestops the cable runs thru the tree and as the tree moves the cables could saw on the living wood and not allow this wound to close.

My understanding of cables is that the true long term strenght is when the tree engulfs the cable and then you are at the same place you would be with the wire stop.

I too would like to see more long term data. I asked for some samples to do installs, and they sent me one or two sets. Not too helpfull.
 
I think the issue is the drill through. The more invasive the penetration the more opportunity for decay causing organisms. Sounds kind of sexy. Hope I didn t infringe on posting rules.
 
On smaller diameter wood you should drill through with eye-bolts anyways.

My gut says it is a good idea for trees where steel is needed.

It will take the tree less time to grow over just the cable then cable and lag head.
 
Trees got to compartmentalize on the back side w live tissue now. I very rarely drill thru w lags. I put a lot of cables in, mostly from bucket. Still keeping 2/3 distance. You kids always got to change a good thing. Some of the old time ways just don t need a change.
 
I liken the lag to an injection hole. It is certainly much bigger but the overall volume may be similar w multiple injections. Yesterday you told me you injected for anthracnose, and you did so annually. Couldn t you have sprayed these trees or subbed it out? I have been trying to get ahold of the dynamic thing in my head from many years ago when some guy from Europe showed up w them at a Shigo seminar pitching them. We bind the tree w moveable support to protect the crotch from breaking out from moving?
 
Yesterday you told me you injected for anthracnose, and you did so annually.

The anthracnose Arbotec injection is a 3 year cycle that can be streached to 5 or more years on some trees. My every year comment was that some people I've talked to do annual treatment for applescab, and I can see that in only a few limited sighting situations when sprays are impractical or illeagle. To expand on the thought that is.

We bind the tree w moveable support to protect the crotch from breaking out from moving?

The attatchements do not envelope the tree, and usually have a piece of web tube for a friction guard.

Being that they are not kept ridgid, they do not have a girdling effect on the stem.

On vigorous trees, when it grows above the cable system 10-15 years later, you can install a new one over it and remove the old one without leaving hardwear.

Steel still has a place, but most cables can be rope systems.
 
I've installed a few of these, what I like about them is that you only have to drill the diameter of the cable, thus allowing you to set the cable in smaller diameter stuff. What I don't like about them is that once set the termination at the stop is like a bundle of barb wire, couple that with a very inconspicuos system and you could potentially have a nasty hand injury for a later unsuspecting climber.
 
How trustworthy is the rear stop? I m sure if you ask the manufacturer or the distributer it is failproof. Wonder how is appears to you. It is obviously easier, quicker and therefore more profitable. I ve never done a cable job and not drawn some knuckle blood from splicing.
 
OK i'll throw another one out here, a bolt or a j-lag is a solid hunk of metal so that when the tree does start to grow around the metal it could seal off any moisture from entering inside the tree. Cable is wrapped and not solid so moisture and air could run inside the cable to the inside of the tree and encourage decay. I would like to be able to dissect a tree that has had wirestops installed about 10-12 years ago to look at it. Just trying to talk this thing through.
 
Cable is wrapped and not solid so moisture and air could run inside the cable to the inside of the tree and encourage decay.

Ther helical thread on a lag does somethign like double or triple the surface area of the hole. Water movemeent is by surface effect, it can move in on a lag too.

As the tree starts to engulf the bend of the eye or jay it forms a seam, then goes over the cable or grip.
 
Using Wire Stops

1. I have been installing cables using Wire Stops for over five years. It takes me about 20 min. to install a cable.
2. The wire does not saw. The 1/16" oversize on the hole is sealed by the cambium during the first growing season.
 
Please elaborate

1. I have been installing cables using Wire Stops for over five years. It takes me about 20 min. to install a cable.
2. The wire does not saw. The 1/16" oversize on the hole is sealed by the cambium during the first growing season.

I am always open to new innovative systems that make our work as arborists easier, faster, more durable etc.

Please post a link that describes the step by step installation proceedures and hardware fo this new cabling system and possible configurations.

From my limited understanding of the system I am left wondering the exact mechanism used to ensure the proper cable tension, which to me is a critical component in proper cabling, short of an inline turnbuckle, I am unsure how tensioning is achieved with this new system.

Until substantial long term results are documented on this new system, I am unlikely to use or recommend it for use in such a vital application.

jomoco
 
jomoco, "Until substantial long term results are documented on this new system, I am unlikely to use or recommend it for use in such a vital application."

lets first call the TCIA on this one and see what they think......:rockn:

just joking jomoco your my boy:jester:
 

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