Rivet Spinner & Chain Breaker Brands?

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FernGreen

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Not sure if this thread will be in the right section, i couldn't find a chainsaw tool section.
Whats a good brand for a rivet spinner and chain breaker? I heard that the harbor freight are mehh (no surprise), so how about the woodland pro, Tecomec, Strongway (Northen tool), Stens, timbertuff? I'm looking for an economic one as i won't be doing a lot of chain but I am looking for a long term option.
 
Welcome to A.S.!

I bought the Woodland Pro model, several years ago, after seeing it was what Bailey's actually used in their shop. has held up well, and *** replacement parts are available ***, if needed. A key criteria.

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/baileys-chain-breaker-and-spinner.144859/
Right now, if I was to buy one, I would probably buy this set: a good deal, and compatible with the Oregon models.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tecomec-Ch...301401?hash=item58e9d6f759:g:d0UAAOSww3tY7Vb7
Philbert
 
I have the (stihl) Ng4,and Ng5 units and they are
really solid,and most importantly ,are machined to tight
tolerances ,so there,s no deflection.I had a china set
that kept breaking the press punches ,and the spinner
wasn,t true
How much did that run you? Can the general public buy those?
 
Welcome to A.S.!

I bought the Woodland Pro model, several years ago, after seeing it was what Bailey's actually used in their shop. has held up well, and *** replacement parts are available ***, if needed. A key criteria.

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/baileys-chain-breaker-and-spinner.144859/
Right now, if I was to buy one, I would probably buy this set: a good deal, and compatible with the Oregon models.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tecomec-Ch...301401?hash=item58e9d6f759:g:d0UAAOSww3tY7Vb7
Philbert
I clued into the Bailey's (Woodland Pro (?) ) and am wondering if you could help to understand the benefit involved in the "take up" side of the tool having that large ribbed black -wheel- with the 3/8 square drive-ratchet socket .
From what I could see in the Bailey-provided instruction sheet, this spinner has capacity to set rivets on more/larger(?) sized chain than would be found on hand-operated chain saws (?).
Comes across as having more versatility than common (copied by everyone) rivet spinning jigs.
On top of it all, that ForesterShop I've mentioned in a few of my posts includes it in their catalog too (East coast & Midwest warehousing).
I've also realized one aspect of the -cast-Oregon Duramax that doesn't seem to fly, and it's that the chain support s aren't incorporated, and they seem sort of important.
Might see one winging it's way to my shop when available again (got to imagine the shipments are in a Customs circumstance somewhere for now).
Do you bother with spare anvil(s) on hand, and if so which
 
Along that same road of inquiry, do you have enough access to any examples of the Oregon/Tecomac spinner anvils to say whether there might be a cross-brand compatibility to that Woodland Pro product?
 
. . . understand the benefit involved in the "take up" side of the tool having that large ribbed black -wheel- with the 3/8 square drive-ratchet socket .
The black, hand wheel lets me quickly move the pressure anvil in and out for access.

The square drive socket lets me reposition the pressure handle for comfort and leverage. Never used it with a ratchet, but can see the advantage.

Make sure you buy a spinner and breaker that you can get parts for.

Philbert
 
The little I've been able to see of the Woodland Pro anvil parts is that unlike the -standard- of the Oregon style, the W.pro anvil has somewhat of a "head" or ring just behind the contact area (? -unsure of my observation though - just going by less than helpful photography ).
From my meager exposure to the Oregon "late (B) style", those parts come across as dead simple, they're -forcing- location being the butt end of the tooling, directly opposite the -shaping- side that actually contacts the rivet stem .?
So, I'm going to figure that the two different (incompatible style s) of shaping anvils "push" on decidedly different area of that tiny bit of tooling to get the same job performed?
If there were contest imposed, from this speculation (again, I have NO actual exposure to the competing styles of anvil parts to make my own educated hands-on determination) -AND-, so long as the durability isn't vastly affected by that seemingly(?) minor change in the profile, and how it is involved in the ultimate performance of said job, that the nearly universal availability & resultant low cost of the Oregon (late "B" type) would be the -WINNER- for informed & educated product selection ?
Lastly, is there any real advantage for choosing the decidedly more expensive -genuine- Oregon, over the nearly identical, and unquestionably less expensive Tecomac?
I'm not even going to touch on the blatantly copied myriad chinee items that flood the market.
 
I'd like to add a few images of the spinner anvils that I came across.
The WP 3/8 -.404 and Oregon large and small are easiest to compare since they both can fill s screen easy.
The Oregon 3/8LP/.325./1/4 and WP small share that same tapered "working end" , but the WP,again has that -head- like in the first image.
It was remarked to be certain to steer yourself to spinners (& breaker) with -available- anvil/punch(tooling). The Oregon are easily found, either genuine OE -or- copied by everyone. The Woodland Pro style, while not as readily available haven't changed, haven't ever been discontinued ( to MY findings) and aren't any more expensive than the genuine Oregon replacements.
The vast difference in layout can be appreciated.
Woodland Pro spinner anvil largel 75320 SAR.jpgOregon Spinner anvil large ORF-38597.jpgOregon Spinner anvil small ORF-38598.jpg
I'm still somewhat preferring the Woodland Pro for a couple of reasons, versatility for larger chains without adding "up size" components, and the large adjustment wheel w/square drive.
 
I have no problem recommending the Woodland Pro, Oregon, Tecomec, or Archer.

Buy a bunch of presets, and practice. More information, comments, and tips the other spinner/ breaker threads.

And please report back here what you find/ learn for others.

Philbert
 
yep, I have an old oregan/ Herr breaker and spinner, cant source replacement punches here, and if I can find them from the US, its over $50 au to get it posted, unreal.
if anyone has any spare, or can get one and post for 10, a padded envelope would not be much, im happy to pay you.
pt # 26870

and if there are any 13mm long spinner anvils for 3/8 /325, im after those as well.

Thanks chaps.
 
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