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Running your ported saw

Huskybill

Huskybill

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have you ever run your ported saw in the forest cutting firewood or is it build for fun?
Or tweeked saw in the woods?

Without porting, add a larger rim like one or two pins depending on what cc your saw is. A rim and drum is less friction. Plug the governor, advance the timing a tad. If you don’t want to port it.

On my old 70’s husky 240sg I put a 9 pin rim, plugged the governor.
On my 266se husky I put a 8 pin rim and plugged the governor.
On my 2100 added a 8 tooth rim, plugged the governor, advanced the timing a tad.

How the chain is filed matters you must be a perfectionist with sharpening the chain. Open up the gullet.


Speed cutting at the local fairs we used every trick in the book setting up the saws. In between the local fairs I would change the saw back to cut firewood. One year I didn’t change it back. My saws were eating wood.
 
Yotaismygame

Yotaismygame

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I've yet to build a saw that wasn't for production work etc etc. From what I see in the porting world the majority of builders just do work saws and maybe build a race saw for themselves just for fun.

As far as mods, nothing will compare to machining and porting a saw. I don't care for rims bigger than 7 teeth because I just don't see the gains. Maybe if you had a big saw with a tiny bar sure..

How good at sharpening a chain you are plays a huge factor. Wood type, saw size, bar size, chain size, chain sequence, round or square are all big factors.
 
Huskybill

Huskybill

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In the carb on the older husky saws there’s a over speed governor under the brass screw. We used a hole puncher to make the plugs. Today’s gas I’d use metal from a beer can.
 
NSEric

NSEric

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I ported my saws so I could cut wood faster, of course I use them cutting up firewood.
I have small saws (50ishcc) with .325 chain, I run a 8 pin rim on the one with a short bar and a 7 pin rim on the one with a longer bar, long bars and oversized rims don't work so well together if you actually need the long bar.
I tuned the high on my ported saws with a tach taped to them while cutting.
I set them for max rpm in the cut under full load by trial and error starting rich, then check the max rpm no load once I figure out the best setting as its quicker to set them with it.
The chinese joncutter 5800 slows down in the cut if I set it under 15000 rpm max no load, it likes to cut at 13000 rpm (I ran one tank at 15500rpm but it wasn't any faster), stock it maxed out at 12000 and cut at 9000-10000 rpm. The ported 62cc Chinese one likes 14000-14500 max rpm and cuts around 12000 rpm, everything is the same but the bore on those 2 saws so the bigger one revs less but has a bit more torque. These saws kinda suck without porting them, I bought the 5800 so I could port it and have a fast 50cc saw.
 
Ketchup

Ketchup

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Gotcha. A Tacho app appears to exist. Doesn’t seem very accurate, but one reviewer is using it for 2-stroke bikes. It’s $9. Kind of tempted.
 
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