I always go nos on dolmar bearings. Never had a failure. I have two 133's one is a super and one standard. They run great with a custom muffler, no base gasket and a slight port widening.Don't know if this is the right place to be asking technical questions about DOLMAR saws but I will ask anyway. I just bought a DOLMAR 133 and am going to do a full bottom and top end rebuild. It has weird two peice cylindrical crank bearings instead of the ball bearing/cage type. should I go back with expensive NOS bearings like it has or is there a ball bearing type replacement that is just as good if not better.
Nice collection. Where do you get your NOS DOLMAR bearings from? I looked on ebay and there are only two comming out of germany. Ordered together they are over $100. I am not going to spend that on bearings.
The bearing manufacturer is f.a.g. of germany. If you find the part # on the bearings and search by that, you will find them way cheaper. By the original maker. I have bought from the ebay guy and he is a good place to find impossible parts but it gets expensive. If you cant see the # on the bearing then hopefully you can find a parts list that has itNice collection. Where do you get your NOS DOLMAR bearings from? I looked on ebay and there are only two comming out of germany. Ordered together they are over $100. I am not going to spend that on bearings.
I am sorry for the delayed response, I was not getting any alerts on my email or phone letting me know I had a new response. I ended up finding some FAG bearings. I now have another problem though. I tore the powerhead down and think the saw has been rebuilt before. It has one three peice bearing and one ball bearing. The ball bearing pressed out of the case ok but the original FAG bearing has no way of getting the old race out of the case. There is no gap to get a puller on it. It is the clutch side. I was able to get the small inner race pressed off the crankshaft with a puller but not the large outer race. I found an article on Hemmings Motor News about removing a axle race that was the same configuration. It said to weld a bead onto the old race all the way around and the contraction will cause it to drop out of the case when it cools. do you have a better way of removing the race?I had a bearing and drive company right by me when i did mine. They were able to identify the manufacturer and measure to get the right ones. It took a week to get them in and cost me 20 bucks.
Thanks, I will try that before I weld on the race. I hate to get slag spatter all over the case doing it the welding method. I might even try heating the case and then spraying the race with CO2 to freeze it and see if that works. So far I am not a big fan of the flat pin type bearings. The groved ball bearing type are alot easier to work with.Same principal
Sounds like it was extra stubborn. Im glad you worked it out.Tried the co2 method but did not have any luck. Heated the case with plumbers map gas and then hit the race with a shot of compressed cumputer board cleaner with the can upside down. I couldn't even get it to budge. I don't know, maybe I was not getting the case hot enough. I ended up taking out the Lincoln tig welder and welding a bead all the way around the base. My first attempt did not work. On my second attempt I decided to weld four spots across from each other in a cross pattern and it finaly lossed up enough to drop about a quarter inch. I then was able to use a punch and ball peen hammer to tap it all the way out. The weld method works but be very carefull, I had a few small spots on the case surface were it started to melt. I took a used chainsaw ball bearing and pressed it back into the case about a eighth of an inch to make sure it would be tight enough for a new bearing. Looks like it will work just fine.